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I installed a set of comp eng slid a link traction bars on my 68 mustang coupe.Ive noticed that a lot of other guys are using cal trac on there car. Just wondering if anyone has had any luck with the slid a links mine work great. or if the cal tracs are better and i wasted my money???
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Wouldn't say a waste. Have seen guys go fast with them. Caltracs I think are better though. Slide a links you can't move the instant center at all, only change pre load.
It does. The problem is the stock setup only has the single leaf coming back to the eye but the 4.5 has a double leaf going back. The 2nd spring from the top comes back farther and will not fit into the spring eye bracket as its designed for only the top single leaf height. I have to remove them soon as I cant wait on CE and don't have the time to fix it myself.
I've called CE 5 times now talking to their design guy requesting a bracket to support the extra leaf. Each time I call he says he'll have to look into it further and will get back to me. I never hear back from him. It just needs an extra 1/2" along the top of the bracket to give the extra 1/4" needed for the 2nd leaf.
Great product for stock leafs but can't be used with 4.5s.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
Just take out the two smaller bolts so it will fit. The smaller one will only help with brake hop, if you have it. Or just cut the leaf off. Won't hurt anything. The bars will keep the leaf from bending and wrapping up right there anyways.
I am running slide-a-links with 4.5 leaf springs and love them. I installed them 2 years ago, so I will have to look to see how I got them installed, but they work great with my 4.5s.
They are more forgiving than cal-tracs on the street, but still totally eliminated my wheel hop once they were calibrated for my torque. Slide-a-links, 4.5 leaf springs, rear sway bar, and some good MT tires will get you planting the power on the street for sure.
__________________
"Yeah, were runnin a little bit hot tonight. I can barely see the road from the heat comin' off of it." Van Halen
Urban.. I'd love to see how yours fit. As shown in the pic above is how they are currently on our car and of course its wrong. Just no way in getting those 2 leafs in that slot as it's just the thickness of 1 leaf.
CPR.. that was my first though however while playing with it the lower plate (where the arrow is pointing to) is welded in. Cutting it off and welding it lower winds up with that large bolt in the way.
By all means suggestions are welcome... This wasn't meant as a thread hijack btw.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats.... Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
I agree with CPR, remove the small bolts, and set the top bolt above the spring, otherwise they won't work correctly for braking or wheel hop.
Not many cars are pushed to the extreme of having brake hop any way.
Otherwise, make your own plates. Could be done with simple hand tools in the garage at home. Use spacers for the rod end heim joint, so you can use flat plates.
Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to fab and paint them.
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