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you are correct, one side of an explorer rear end is longer than the other, for some reason I havent figured out they didnt center the diff in the explorers. But probably the best thing to do is make a little jig to hold the diff level and use a chop saw to cut it. but sawsall or portaband will work, just gotta be really steady with your hands, something I can't do.
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The diffs arent centered because it is a 4wd. There is a transfer case which offsets the diff.
I mentioned the 3" because everything that i read tells me that i need to trim off 2.48"s. so what about the 1/2" offset. will i notice it or end up with a vibration because of the pinion angle?
are you measuring to the pinion or to the flange on the diff housing? last time i measured mine it was around 2.48" offset.
easiest way is to measure the axles. their difference is how much shorter it needs to be if you plan on using two passenger axles. if you're using custom axles, measure the difference and then figure out what you need to do to make both sides the same.
as for whether or not you have an offset pinion, it doesn't matter as long as your driveshaft clears everything.
So it is all smoothed out and ready for surgery. I took pics with my crackberry but they suck. I will redo them with the sony.
I am going to pull the axels out tomorrow and measure them up. I have to drive 2 hours to Tucson because that is the only pllace around that has the extra pass. side axle. I should have it in hand tomorrow and ready to chop chop.
One small question, doed anyone know if the tail yolk i think it is called or the pinion yolk from my 8" will work on the new 8.8 I havent tried yet i may check it tomorrow also since we will be cutting the rest up.
I used an Explorer rear in my 65 and left the offset. I moved the spring perches to the proper position. I'm using an 06 GT driveshaft so I put the 06 GT flange on the rear. It is about 4" diam and 3" long so it sticks way out and hit the floorpan when I hit big bumps (the car is lowered 1 1/2"). I had to notch the floor pan for clearance and now it's fine. I'm using a 2-piece modified 06 GT driveshaft with a center carrier bearing, which has a u-joint at the transmission flange (06 GT transmission) and a CV joint the middle and at the rear. I don't have any vibration issues, but I have heard of others who have. The width is perfect - 2" wider than original so my 04 Bullitt wheels sit right where they should.
As to the pinion yoke, Inland Empire Driveline (do a google) makes a yoke for the 8.8 that uses 1310 or 1350 u-joints. Most of the vintage Mustangs used 1310 u-joints. The yoke is about $55 plus shipping. Others have used this yoke to reduce the diameter and help with floorpan contact with the offset.
Okay, I have all old brackets and the perches cut off and ground down I pulled the diff cover off to inspect the gears and they look brand new. I couldnt evn find a wear pattern. There was a tag on the diff that said 15w-20 synthetic only. This may be the reason for no wear.
I pulled the axle retainer clips and removed the axels. When i compared the axels there is a 2-7/8 difference between the two. The replacement driverside side axle i picked up is the same as the existing passenger one so that tells me that i am moving correctly.
every thing that i have read says the difference is 2.48"s which is a concern to me. were the previous post i read incorrect?
I will be posting pics soon. I have some but they were taken with my crackberry and they are not that clear.
My next step is to cut and reweld it. Here is what i have decided to do. I am going to temerarily weld the diff to a pair of jack stands to keep is steady and in place while i cut it with a chop saw. I figured this will be the best way to get a straight cut. Next i am going to a metal supply house to find a sleeve to go inside the tube. Every wright up i have seen about this instructs me to just line it up and but weld it, but i think that it will be stronger and straighter if i drill holes, use a sleeve and plug weld it as well as butt weld it.
FOR ALL OF YOU OUT THERE LOOKING TO DO THIS, THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF "CASH FOR CLUNKERS" EXPLORERS OUT THERE. I got the replacement axel and even a set of new looking calipers from a 04 exploder that only had 20k miles on it. These rear ends are very available now and i am finding the alterations to be very easy. I know this is going to be a slam dunk of a project.
3.73 gears, track loc, and rear disc breaks for less than $300
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