You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
So I recently rebuilt my stock 289 to a 347 stroker. Ive got an all edelbrock top end and im using the scat stroker kit. When I took the engine out the crank moved with a little strength but as soon as I put the new crankshaft in and torked the main caps and the pistons down the crankshaft wont move. when I degreed the camshaft I had to untork all the pistons then the crankshaft was able to move freely. I torked all the piston bolts to the ARP reccomendations and i torked the main caps to factory reccomendations. Did I do something wrong Im worried that when i go to start it the starter wont be able to turn the engine over and Ill have done all the hard work for nothing. Any help would be greatly apprecieated.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
when assemblying the engine you need to check with plastic gauge the gaps and make sure the motor turns afer each piston install if it doesnt you can find out why on that piston you installed
are you sure gads are correct just because the parts are new or have come from a machine shop doesn't mean they are perfect, because the machinist is human after all
__________________
Founder Rmodel's Mustang Militia
“If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquillity of servitude than the animating contest of freedom, — go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen!”
~Samuel Adams
you need to check to see if the crank spins after EVERY thing you do. This may cause a problem with the assembly lube wearing off so heres, what i did...
Set crank in place with PLENTY of lube.
Installed the center and outer most Crank caps, still spun, if not heres the problem, (i only spun it a 1/4 turn each direction at this point)
Obv, you have a tq wrench,
My stock 289 assembled with valvetrain and no heads, took 22 ft lbs to turn over.
Obv for your stroker it will take more, but with no compression it should not be impossible to trun by hand. something is wrong and you need to start over.
Next i install the remainder of the caps, still spun (again a 1/4 turn in each direction)
Install Piston #1 Torque Rod Cap, Next, install the other piston (i forget which one) that can go in with the crank in this orientation)
Then Install piston #2 and the corresponding piston, and so on and so on...
With this method you will have only turned the crank shaft approx 2 revolutions, and little to no assembly lube is lost, if at any point you cath
ugh this sucks. ok I'm about to go outside and start this process. Now I have another question. When I find out what piston it is thats making it stop what should I do. Thanks for the help everyone Im really glad I havent gotten any farther with the process.
ok so ive been at it all day today and heres what I got so far. I first put in the first and last main caps still spun. the first piston still spun the second piston still spun but was getting alot harder to spit n then on the third piston wouldnt spin at all. I have the valve train all together and I also have the heads on. I am too tired to keep goin on it tonite but if I take the spark plugs off to allow the air to pass freely would that help with turning it. If the spark plug thing doesnt help than what should I try next. Oh ya I forgot to say that I tried different pistons the third time n with each piston it wouldnt turn.
Yes, take the plugs out. That will make it a whole lot easier to turn. Check your rod and crank bearings. You may have gotten oversized bearings and I'm sure your stroker kit is proabably standard. If you have oversized bearings there won't be any clearance. Also, make sure EVERYTHING is clean. Bearing clearances are very small and one little spec of dirt can cause the crank to bind. Are you using your stock block? I assume you clearanced the oil pan rail on the block for the stroker kit?
Last edited by hiboostwoody; 10-12-2009 at 01:57 AM.
ok well I just went and did the spark plug thing and still nothing with the third piston torked down. The crank shaft is not moving at all. When i had the second piston torked down it took 80 ft lbs to turn the shaft. HELP
how can you tell if there is over sized bearings or not. The bearings for the rods came with the kit so im guessing thoes are fine ill check to make sure everything is clean next
Look on the side of the bearing half that DOESN'T face the crankshaft where the bearing halves split. It should tell you if it's standard or oversized and by how much. It'll say one of the following: std., .010, .020, etc.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
crankshaft rebuild trouble
