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you can ship a car across the country for around $1000. we shipped a plymouth fury III from the midwest to the east coast for around $650. are there transfer fees or crating charges that would bump the cost up to $5000 to run it across the ocean?
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I went back to the other dealer today (the one that has the topic start Mustangs).
They used to import cars from the states as well, but they've stopped since the good cars are gone and he confirms that many, many times, you buy junk.
I looked really well this time at both the 69 Fastback and the 69 Coupe.
The coupe is in really good shape. There is no bondo or rust or anything. Repainted only a couple of years ago, it has FM-radio, nice seats inside and the exhaust produces a rather soft muscle car noise (yesterday I watched Bullit and that's a lot louder for sure). The engine also features a couple of years old Edelbrock carb and manifolder.
However, if we want to make the car truly safe for busy dutch roads, we need a set of disk brakes. Currently there are no power brakes. So first power brakes have to go in, and then disk brakes. Making the 13000 euro car about 15000 euro's.
I also looked really closely to the 69 fastback. If you look carefully you can see that the paintjob has been done a while ago and at certain points (booth, edges at door) you can see it actually used to be yellow. There are also some minor flaws of the paint on the body itself. According to the salesmen if you want the car to be perfect you need to repaint it, but since from a distance the paint still looks really good, you can also correct the minor flaws with a pen. Taking your time with it. Is that true? You can always repaint later anyway.
Also with the LPG installation, it can be removed at no extra cost and you get the installation with you as well when you buy the car (still should give you a couple of 100 euro's on eBay-ish dutch site Marktplaats). This means I get the original air filter back on the 351W 4V engine and on the boot size will be increased back to normal.
The body further also has no other flaws, no rust, no bondo, it's in fine condition. Just the, I think this is the correct english word, muffler is broken. It has a rust hole in it. That'll be completely fixed when buying the car for no extra cost, giving it the original sound it used to be.
Also I noticed something in the interior that even the experienced salesmen had never known. When measuring the inside of both cars, from front window to the top of the back seat: the fastback is actually 4 inches bigger! At the bottom of the seat it's about 2 inches. Meaning the fastback is roomier than the coupe... Further the interior seams more luxureous than the coupe. This one also has wood in it, and an rpm meter by the way.
The salesman bought this car in California in 1998 himself and brought it to Holland, where it was sold to a man who only drove 4000 miles with it before returning it, meaning it has been standing still for some time. The 1969 Mach 1 is 19500 euro's.
The only problem is I can't testdrive it, because the exhaust still has to be fixed. And he can't do that, because if we pick the other car and somebody else wants a different exhaust system on this one, then he can change it again.
So once again, it's a matter of taste... Spend 15000 on a nice 1969 Coupe or spend 19500 on a nice 1969 Mach 1 fastback
What would you take?
Oh and the dealer seems really trustable, he tells all the flaws on every car and picks you up when your car dies somewhere in the country. Holland is not as 'scamful' as the states, it's really government controled by approvals for as well as cars as well as dealers etc... Later I also read that they were featured in Top Gear magazine and for the dutchies, today I ran into Floris van Bommel...
Last edited by maschoemaker; 10-26-2009 at 03:08 PM.
Except for the fact that I forgot the human factor:
My dad actually buys the car. He prefers the coupe...
My mom doesn't really like the fastback and thinks it's a bit of a pimp car... (yeah right :/)
Me and my sister really want the Mach 1 of course So bad I might even be prepared to pay a 10% share
Last edited by maschoemaker; 10-26-2009 at 06:41 PM.
i don't get that can't testdrive with a broken muffler discussion. you can't buy the car without testdriving, so just hop in, go, make lots of noise and burn some tire. That'll convince the father, but don't bring the mother ;-) first time I hear someone saying the 69fastback looks like a pimp car. you should see the white newport a buddy of mine just bought. that's a pimpmobile
__________________
1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
Okay just read this. Agree 100% with Kalli. As soon as I read that you could not test drive it because of the muffler??? I was like what lol. That should not have any affect on the cars ability to drive. Even if you do not mean the mufflers and you mean the headers that still would not alter the cars ability to drive by much, and that much would probably just be the sound. Sounds suspicious to me. I would most likely buy the Mach 1 as it will hold its value a lot better. Did you check the floor pans?? The cowl?? In your environment those are the places I would suspect the most damage/rust. If you are serious about buying that car and spending that amount of money DEFINITELY make the investment of hiring a mechanic, preferably one you already know and deal with, to look over the car. Listen to the engine etc. Most mechanics that you already use will do this for like $100 or less. That cost is minuscule compared to the investment you are about to make and will potentially save you thousands if something is wrong that you do not know about but a genuine mechanic would. good luck. and do not buy any car without test driving it lol.
Okey I kind of misexpressed about trying out the 351W Mach1. I could test drive the fastback, however, I wouldn't be able to hear the engine properly, it would make all sorts of funny noises so you wouldn't hear the difference between good and bad...
Actually you make it sound like it's bullocks, so I'll test drive it, whatever the condition of the muffler... You're absolutely right, and I'll consider the mechanic (however, they are mechanics themselves, but that should be allright).
Oh and by the way: cowl (koul)
n.
1.
a. The hood or hooded robe worn especially by a monk.
b. A draped neckline on a woman's garment.
2. A hood-shaped covering used to increase the draft of a chimney.
3. The top portion of the front part of an automobile body, supporting the windshield and dashboard.
4. The cowling on an aircraft.
You mean the hood of the car? No rust, floor pans, also doesn't seem to be any. Body really seems okey
Last edited by maschoemaker; 10-26-2009 at 06:49 PM.
sorry I misunderstood you then. I thought you meant he would not let you test drive the car. If someone would not let me test drive the car it would immediately set off red flags for me lol.
Cowl =
3. The top portion of the front part of an automobile body, supporting the windshield and dashboard.
See if there is a good post on here for the testing of the cowl. Its pretty much pouring water down the vent there but it is a good idea to do some other stuff on that one. I think that cowl vent comes off so you can see if they patched it up or something.
the cowl is one of the areas in those cars which rust first. It is a hardcore job to replace and no matter how good the car, if the cowl is fried I wouldn't buy it.
It's the area under the grille between widscreen and hood (bonnet). get a bucket of water or a waterhose with decent waterflow and pour water in there. When the water comes out the side of the car->good if it comes out on the inside where you have your feet driver side and passenger side->very bad. This is the very first check that has to be done when buying a mustang.
Kalli
__________________
1964 1/2
302ci, Edelbrock RPM heads and cam, 650 speed demon, Long Tube headers and Flowmaster 40s
Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac-loc from FRPP and T5 transmission.
CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. http://www.gascc.ie
I'm really sorry, I apparently misunderstood the salesmen. I can't testdrive the car. The exhaust system is hanging against something preventing it to be able to drive it (sorry, but I don't understand), however he said, it should drive exactly the same as the other coupé. They can't replace the exhaust system yet, because if somebody else walks in and wants another exhaust system in it (like flowmaster or anything) they have to replace it again.
Now I'm really starting to have doubts with this man... I mean, come on, if you want to sell a car, how can you present one which is not even available for a quick test drive? Then it may be similar to the other car, but so what: I'm not buying a car I haven't driven yet! Especially not a 40 year old one... The dealer also said "I told you the muffler was broken" instead of "I'm so sorry you can't". I expected more from a car dealer featured in Top Gear magazine...
I'll continu looking at other dealers.
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