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Is the shelby drop where the upper control arms are lowered by 1 inch? Does it raise the front end of the car and what would i do to compensate in the back end?
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Yes it is where the UCAs are dropped 1 in. No it does not raise the front end up. You will need an alignment afterward though. You can get the specs from this site.
Is the shelby drop where the upper control arms are lowered by 1 inch? Does it raise the front end of the car and what would i do to compensate in the back end?
Best thing since sliced bread. The operation lowers the front end about 5/8". That's not why you do it, though, the gain is in the change in geometry.
i love the change in handling on mine. it seems to settle into corners alot faster and feel more stable. the tires dont squal as easily while cornering. the stance is a great bonus.
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1969 vert.
351c 4v, AOD swap with a shift kit and 2500 stall, 3.55 gears with a trac-lok. shelby drop. wheels, 18x8.5 - 245/45/18s up front and 18x9.5 - 275/40/18s in the rear. fiero seats covered to match the factory rear seat.
The Shelby drop requires a 17/32" drill bit for the hole.
That is only 1/32" above a 1/2" bit,so it is not much.
Can you just VERY carefully hog the hole out just with the 1/2" bit or use a file to get the hole big enough?
The only 17/32" bit I can find are 1/2" shanks and I don't have a 1/2" drill, not to mention they cost around $15 for a bit I will only use 4 times.
I cannot see that it would make that big a difference to the front end if you just hog the hole a little bit with the 1/2" drill bit or use a file to get that lousy 1/32".
Anyone else do this?
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ˝” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes
When you need to drill a big hole in heavy steel, start small and work your way up. Drill a 1/8th pilot, 1/4" and so on. This will make your pricey 1/2" last a whole lot longer. Also you can oil the bit as you drill.
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