Lead for rusted window fame?

MetalEd · 11-06-2009, 03:47 PM

I just started cleaning the stripped rear window frame for POR15 and in the bottom corner I found a glob of body filler. I removed it with a wire brush on a dremel and underneath I found the gold color metal that originally closed the joint, but also found a lot of it missing along with rust.
Someone had repaired it with body filler, but it did not stop the rust since it was flaking under the filler? Since this is such an important structural piece for the window, I don't want to just cover it with POR and body filler. I was thinking that some lead in the corner would seal the metal correctly and then I could coat it with POR. Would this work?
I have removed most of the rust I can see and I don't think spot welding would work in this joint without burn-through(not an experienced welder). It looks like the original joint was covered with a gold colored soft metal when it was melted. Maybe a lead mix? Will lead stick to it? (only have a torch and roll of plumbers lead or even a Silver/Lead mix that I have.. not a rosin core.)

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rmodel65 · 11-06-2009, 04:17 PM

looks like it was brazed... why not use alum based metal filler?? its like using lead but it is safer to use and has superior corrosion resistance over lead....

MetalEd · 11-06-2009, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmodel65

looks like it was brazed... why not use alum based metal filler?

Somehing like Evercoat's Metal2Metal? I haven't used anything like this...If not this one, do you know a product to look for?
I can tell the rear of the roof, where it meets the quarter panel was filled in with lead. A wire brush just eats through the stuff, so I thought lead would work well. Plus I already have it.

rmodel65 · 11-06-2009, 04:56 PM

well the metal to metal, all metal etc would be better imho and like i said safer as its not poisonous like lead

andrewmp6 · 11-07-2009, 02:44 AM

Eastwood has a lead free body solder and it acts just like the leaded dose.If its done right it will out last you.

jcoby · 11-07-2009, 08:24 AM

the bodies were brazed in a few key places including in the windows, four corners of the quarters, and several other places. i'm guessing it was for pre-assembly to allow for moving things around. but that's your gold-colored blob.

honestly, that doesn't look very bad, just some surface rust where the panels overlap. I would probably treat it with phosphoric acid and move on. (phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in naval jelly, phospho, and most of the other rust-converter products)

as for using plumbing supplies as body filler, it won't work. there is too much tin. and you also need the brush on flux, tallow, and paddles to do an acceptable job. i bought some 70/30 solder when I ran out of filler thinking it was 70% lead but I got the numbers reversed. the solder just beads up and falls off, even when properly prepped. it also takes too much heat to use properly.

MetalEd · 11-07-2009, 09:31 AM

Thanks All! You answered all my questions and taught me a little about how the car was made and how to correctly fix the problem.
This may not look like anything big. But it was causing a lot of damage. While prepping the window frame, water and cleaners kept draining out.. searched out where the water was going and it made a trail into the trunk and another into the back seat from the package tray area. It followed a line of rust that had me previously confused as to the source of moisture. It appears water would settle in the back window well and slowly drain into the car. This was evident from the water damaged package tray press-board. The trunk got most of the rust damage. But there is good news. What I thought was serious rust under the rear seat. It looks like it was the residue/stain from settling rusted water. I took a water dampened sponge and just wiped away 99% of the rust, leaving fresh original paint under it. There are some minor spots minor surface rust starting. It'll be easier cleanup than replacing the rear floor like I thought I was going to have to do (I already have to replace the front floors).
Anyhow, I will be sealing this leak. Flattening out the window welds and resulting ripples in the metal along the inside of the window with the same metal body filler (flattest surface possible for the window gasket) and then coating with por15, epoxy primer and then paint.
You guys helped me figure out a major leak and rust source from a minor flaw. Thank you!

andrewmp6 · 11-07-2009, 11:19 AM

You gotta remember this is a old car plastic body filler aka bondo didn't come out tell the late 70s early 80s.Before that they body solder for filler lead and few others where used.But the good thing its metal if it hasn't popped up yet i doubt it will.One spot they always leaded was the top of the a pillar where it meets the roof.Lead work is a lost art now,You gotta get it hot use the flux a lot of heat and shove it on hard worry about smoothing it out later with a grinder.