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im trying to decide what trans to go with in my 67 coupe...right now its a c4...i really would like to put a 5 speed in it, but i heard that t-5's arent the best at holding power and even if the internals are built the casings twist...is this true? i was also looking at tkos but i heard you have to cut the trans tunnel for clearance and i dont want to cut the car at all... i really wanna go manual but its a lot more $$...any suggestions? i was looking at AODs also just bc i know it will save me a lot of money...what do you guys think i should do? i need an OD trans that will hold power. auto or stick? what brands?...i know i can get a 4 speed toploader but if i run 4.10s like i want to im not sure how hwy friendly it'd be...any input is appreciated!
thanks,
chris
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'67 coupe
c4 transmission
289, wiand single plane intake, 650 cfm 4bbl
long tube headers
i was wondering about the same....i have a 4spd manual bolted to my 289 right now but im going to drop a 302 that has 400hp....i was hopeing that i could just drop a 5spd out of a fox body straight in but i dont know if i have to cut the tunnel or if it will hold up..
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TO: Ricers- 1) there's no replacement for displacement 2) my lug nuts require more torque than your engine makes 3) a light car doesn't excuse a weak engine 4) a bottle of pepsi has more liters than your car. Eating rice builds muscle!
You won't have to cut the tunnel if it is a T5. My grandfather has one in his 66 and I have one in my 67. Only cutting we did was the opening where the shifter comes through the floor.
You would have to build the T5 for the 400hp or a TKO500 might hold up to it.
ramprat...thats an aod correct? where did u get it from and what parts were necessary for the conversion? how much did it cost? and why a truck bellhousing...thanks for the info!
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'67 coupe
c4 transmission
289, wiand single plane intake, 650 cfm 4bbl
long tube headers
The 4R70W is basically an AOD. I have one in my 95 F150 with 275k original miles on it. Its a good transmission.
A T5 is fairly durable. Are you really planning on a 400+ hp setup? It also depends how your going to drive the car.
I believe that 4.10s with a toploader is not the same as 4.10s with a T5. I believe the ratios are different. So, you would not need 4.10 gears to get the same effect with the T5. Thats what I remember reading a while back. Don't quote me on this though.
I'd want to know what kind of motor you plan on putting in front of it. A world class T5 is rated to about 300ft-lbs (enough for a mild 289/302), and a T5z is good to 330ft-lbs, enough for a moderate 5.0 build that doesn't get abused too much.
You can fit a TKO under a '67 without cutting the tunnel up. You can either bang on the tunnel with a BFH, or you can use a drop crossmember. If you go with the latter, you should ideally alter your pinion angle to compensate for the change in transmission output angle to prevent unwanted vibrations. Not that it's a sure bet you'll have a vibration (as I'm sure JMD will point out), but it's more likely, and it'll be hard to chase down after the fact.
The problem with TKO's is that apparently they don't like to be shifted above 5800rpm. Fox body guys are running into this problem while running them at the track. They tend to lock up during the 2-3 shift at 6k+. Worst case, you have to actually pull the tranny to get it out of gear. Basically, they're not meant for racing use. If you don't plan on spending much time above 5800, it probably won't be a problem. But if you have a high-winding 289 or 302, there are better options.
You can get well-built T5's that will handle some serious torque. Astroperformance and American Powertrain are two builders that come to mind. Modern Driveline used to offer G-force T5's, but I believe they stopped doing that due to some quality control issues with the G-force kits. Not sure if they have a replacement.
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Tad H.
'67 Fastback
331 stroker
Vehicle: 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe, '09 Warriors In Pink
Location: TN
Posts: 76
You can get a built AOD from many co.'s prices from $1500-2K from what I've seen. If you plan to drive it on the highway you want to stay with a lockup converter. There is the AOD and AODE (electric) in stock form the E's are supposed to be heftier but you'll have to get a computer to control it and wire that in.
I'm doing a built AOD for simplicity with a 2200-2500 lockup stall which won't feel much different than stock but improve launches from what I've researched. The AOD swap requires a few things (do a search on web for mustang AOD swap) - engine plate, flywheel, torque conv., lokar TV cable, shift rod, trans mount crossmember, driveshaft may need to be shortened.
There are calculators to figure out your RPM's at any range once you figure out your final drive (most AOD's are 0.67) and your rear gears, I made a spreadsheet and punched in 50-100mph with different rear gears to see where each would put me: http://www.ringpinion.com/Calc_RPM.aspx
Jon
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"If it isn't broke I haven't fixed it yet" - Jon
'67 Coupe 289>333, AOD, CandyApple Red/red dlx interior, fox seats, 9" 3.50.
'09 Warriors in Pink w/glass roof - wife's Mustang
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selecting a OD trans to put in a 67 coupe
