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Full quarters only on mine. I have never done a skin. I do know that the skin does NOT come with the end cap, that is the piece that is under the quarter extension. I'm not sure how far a skin goes over the top. A skin will not go into the lead joint either.
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dcohen, it would be easier to show that from the inside and I have my headliner in so that is not really possible. If you are doing quarters anyway I would cut the quarters off first, then the roof. Put the roof on first then the quarters. You will need to brace the car when you cut the roof off. On your application I would go into the lead joint to get the quarters off. Then break the roof loose from there. That will only get the roof skin loose. The structure of the roof is the hard part. The best way is to take the car apart and figure out where to cut the structure. There are a lot of ways to do that. I would just go with what works best for you. It will make more sense when the car is apart.
Got my repop sheet metal today. I was suprised how things fit. I was not too bad. Got the quarter and the fender rough fit in about an hour. Looks like very few issues. The fender needed some work by the cowl and windshield, other than that not bad.
I'll post more as I get them. I need more sheet metal to keep doing the fitment. Understand too, that stuff is just hanging on there. I haven't done any welding yet. I need my trunk drop and my shelby tail light panel before I can start welding. Gotta make sure everything is perfect before getting out the mig welder.
Those are studs that are welded on with a special welding gun. Then you have a slide hammer puller that clamps onto the stud so you can pull the dent. It keeps from having to punch holes in the panel for a normal type dent puller. when you are done pulling the dent you just cut the stud off and grind it down flat.
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RE: Rusty bondo bucket for Soaring
