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67t5ponycoupe,
Can you please post some pics of the new quarter from inside the trunk? I might have to replace the quarter along with some of the wheelwell on my 64 but have to idea where to start
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fantastic pictures. we did my quarter panels the exact same way, but you actually have some pictures of it. i'm about to do door skins very soon, too. i wonder who's finish first [8D]
Not sure what you want to see in the trunk but here goes. I don't put the full quarter on inside the trunk. I cut the old quarter on the red line and then lap the new quarter over. The new quarter will need holes punched in it so you can do some through welds. It is best to leave the trunk lid on so you can fit everything before you weld. In other words close the trunk and make sure the trunk and the quarter match up. Insided the grean circles are the factory spot welds and that is where you are supposed to break it loose to replace the quarter. I don't do it that way for 2 reasons, 1 is that once you break the factory spot welds it will never look like factory spot welds again and the other reason is that there is a date code stamp on the piece that is left behind. Doing it my way leaves the date code alone and it looks like the quarter was never replaced.
You can see around the tail light. Punch holes in the new quarter at the approximate location of the factory spot welds and then through weld it and grind it flat.
Edit: At this point it is very critical to hang your rear valance on the car before you weld the quarter panel on completely. This is so that you can adjust the quater panel to meet the valance properly. The quater may need to be pulled in toward the center of the car before welding the quater to the trunk drop. I have found that is almost always the case.
For the front edge of the quarter, leave the door on the car and make sure it is adjusted properly before cutting off the quarter. This will allow you to adjust the front of the quarter to the door before welding it in place. Same technique, I use a Whittney punch to put holes in the front lip of the quarter at the approximate location of the factory spot welds and then through weld it and grind it flat. I'm not quite finished in this picture.
Edit: I marked the factory spot weld in the door jam prior to cutting the quarter off. This is so that I can get the welds in the same location.
Where the quarter meets the roof, I stay below the lead joint. It makes things much easier. Trim the car and the quarter so there between a 1/2 and a 1/4 inch over lap and lap weld it. I lap weld the whole thing except the last 2 or 3 inches at the back were it comes into the trunk. For that I trim it up to be able to butt weld it. It makes for a much cleaner job. This is the picture after it was welded and ground down.
With all of that being said, I learned these techniques at a productions body shop. You get paid by the job not by the hour. If I was doing a concours restoration I would go into the lead joint. This car is for me and I know that the way I'm doing it is correct and is the fastest cleanest way to do it. For example, if you need to to put a patch panel on the lower part of the quarter behind the wheel opening, you would trim the rusty part of the car out until you got into good metal and then trim the patch panel to fit the car. Don't feel like you have to put in the entire panel just because you have it. Keep as much of the original car as you can. Minimise the welding and the plastic filler work. A few more pictures.
damn man! good stuff. i'm going to have to save this thread. i just wish i had a garage to store my stang so i could do a full out resto like that. right now i got it sitting in my parents driveway. i need to get some more tools so that i can start taking care of business. getting ready to look into welding classes too!
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