dwb91lx

When I replaced my convertible door weatherstripping & Pillar Post weatherstrippng, I intended to get that newer car door closure sound & feel. What I ended up is stupid protocol for me & anyone entering or leaving my car...Let me roll the window up while you have the door open then slam it shut...Don't slam the door when the windows or top down....It's a pain in the ****...

There is NO WAY these pillar post strips will ever "break-in", I was wondering if a heat gun softening them whould help mold them to the window edge.

The ones I bought were from Late Model Restoration...I wish I would have hung on to theflimsier originals.

Any Ideas?

dwb91lx

I've waited over a year for these pillar post weatherstripping by 5.0 Resto to "break in"...I've used a heat gun to try to mold in the window to the strip & I've had enough...They are coming off. I really thought I could live with it but it has been a bit embarrassing having to explain the "door & window routines" to each and every passenger that rides in my car.

Last night I saw a segment on "MotorHead Garage" featuring weatherstripping from SoffSeal who talks about the importance of not having to slam doors, etc. caused by stiff weatherstripping...ordered some this morning from Jegs after talking to SoffSeal directly...they said they are "soft & spongy" (customer service went back to the warehouse & felt them while I was on hold.

I always believed that LateModel Restoration would be the best place to buy this stuff...I can't be the only one that has fought this. I will update when I get the alternate brand on, SoffSeal, who warranties there products for life.

Roger Mabry

I have to replace mine and all the convertible weatherstripping - plus the tack strip on the rear of the top. Do not want to do this and have those kind of problems..

I am waiting right now for the new door seals to arrive from them as mine are torn at the bottom. If they have a warning label in the instructions - they will go right back to them...seals need to be soft and properly sized to work correctly.

Am fighting door seals on a '72 Jaguar XJ now that was just repainted. Seals are too long, too thick and generally do not fit well.

Have to slam the trunk because that seal is incorrectly sized and there is is a warning label already to not slam the trunk!

You can not believe all the incorrect stuff being sold for car replacement parts... It is just as hard to make them incorrectly as correctly!

dwb91lx

It'll probably be a couple weeks before they go on, but I will know right away when they get here by feel...If there is a huge difference I will also replace the door weatherstripping, too. The replacement stripping was way stouter...and I thought that was good. we shall see!

Roger Mabry

dwb91lx

Will install the new door seal on the drivers side tomorrow. Have to find out why the power mirror is "crazy" and does not go all directions properly. Also have
a motor rebuild kit for the drivers door to install...door day tomorrow.

Seals feel OK, stiffer but not horribly so...hope they work properly. Will wait to hear from you about the new pillar seals...hope they work for you as well..

Want to get all that seal stuff ordered for my car and installed before the rainy season - have to pull both rear quarter panel windows and fix all that stuff.

Roger Mabry

The door seals show on the package it "Fits All". They are plenty long enough since they fit a coupe as well. The extra length can be saved and used tyo
repair the bottoms that will tear again over time....

But the problem is at the top front of the door, it looks like the last 6-8 inches needs to be cut down to fit properly where it meets the
other convertible seal..but no special instructions came with the seal.

The door seal is not covered in the extra Convertible manual either...

The video on the site shows the seal being installed on a coupe...a much different install at the end I am having a problem...coupe just continues around the jamb.

Did not cut it off yet, will wait until I hear a response back from Latemodelresto on Monday - we need to lobby for more Convertible support and videos that cover our unique needs and seals and their replacement...

dwb91lx

Yah I remember that the original door seal I replaced last year was "knifed down"...kind of a weak attempt. Remember these cars left the factory as a Coupe & were sent to a third part for the conversion to Vert...This very point we are discussing is the only visual transformation point between the original coupe & the convertable, that I can tell.
I don't think enough "eyes" are on the convertible tech forum...so once it's off the new post page, it gets buried. I wonder if American Muscle replaced these pieces on their Fox Project car?

Roger Mabry

I am returning one of my door seals to LateModelResto and bought a kit of both door seals for convertibles from American Muscle.

Will report on their fit upon arrival...will show the differences in the upper end of the two seals..

dwb91lx

I noticed a pretty accurate how to video on CJ Pony Parts regarding pillar post and door weatherstrip. I would think you would destroy the pillar post seal if you have to remove it.

Roger Mabry

The door seals that were described as for a Convertible, from AMC arrived, they were cut down to fit the convertible door frames but cut flush on the ends....there is no needed taper to fit into the caps on the top.

So, you can buy coupe sized seals and cut them off yourself and then use the spare material to fix the door seals at the bottom when someone tears
them again..or buy the short ones for the same price..

Neither will fit unless you cut them down like Ford did when they made the verts out of coupes...the door seal - the clamp on portion - has to
remain but the other roundish part of the seal needs to be cut like the one in my photos but I am not allowed to attach them (yet)?

Contact me if you want photos of the proper shaped ends of the vert door seals for a 1990 Mustang LX Convertible.

mabryroger@hotmail.com