Ok, how do I get to the hydraulic cylinders on my 91?
#1
Ok, how do I get to the hydraulic cylinders on my 91?
I am considering disconnecting the cyclinders on my 91, and trying lifting and lowering my top manualy before I drop 300 bucks on a new motor. I figure I have nothing to loose, and if I don't mind it, I might just strip out and sell off the cyclinders and motor if I think I can live with a manual top. BUT, I have no idea how to get to the cylinders.....I know about where they are, or I THINK I do, but I'd rather know from the experience here what all needs removed to get at them. I'd rather not strip out half the interior needlessly if I do not have to.
Any help would be appriciated.
Also, I already tried lowering the top manually.....And, I could feel the hydraulic preassure fighting me. Does that mean that the fluid is still in the system? I wondered if it meant the fuild had not leaked, and the motor had just died, because it was HARD trying to lower it fighting the hydraulic system.....
Any help would be appriciated.
Also, I already tried lowering the top manually.....And, I could feel the hydraulic preassure fighting me. Does that mean that the fluid is still in the system? I wondered if it meant the fuild had not leaked, and the motor had just died, because it was HARD trying to lower it fighting the hydraulic system.....
#3
Ruskie,
Yes, if you still feel the pressure, there is plenty of hydraulic fluid left in the system.
The easiest way to disconnect the cylinders would be to unbolt the top of the cylinder ram that is connected to the pivoting top frame member. After this is done, you would need to push the ram down into the cylinder and just leave it there and forget about it.
This bolt would be visible from the back seat as you are looking over the side panel as if you were going to look (but of course you can't) down at the tire from the inside of the car. This process is obviously much easier than the next, however, if the motor somehow gets activated and the ram starts going up and down, there likely would be damage to top frame components.
The other way would be to:
1. Take out the back seat bottom and backrest.
2. Lift up the barrier to expose the hydraulic pump.
3. Get lots of rags to mop up hydraulic fluid.
4. Unbolt the two hydraulic fittings that are connected to the pump. At this time, you lay the rags down in the floor area so that you can catch the hydraulic fluid.
5. Unlatch the two front clamps of the convertible at the header like you are getting ready to put down the convertible top. Get ready for the mess!
6. Slowly lower the convertible top into the well as you mop up the hydraulic fluid that comes streaming out of the hydraulic hoses. Lift the convertible top again and repeat putting it down into the well several times.
7. Now that you have manually removed the fluid, leave the hoses unbolted from the motor, preferrably with a large rag wrapped around the ends to catch residual fluid.
Now that you have air travelling through the hydraulic lines, the top can be lifted and lowered manually, although lifting it out of the well for the first 10" won't be easy.
Good luck!
Yes, if you still feel the pressure, there is plenty of hydraulic fluid left in the system.
The easiest way to disconnect the cylinders would be to unbolt the top of the cylinder ram that is connected to the pivoting top frame member. After this is done, you would need to push the ram down into the cylinder and just leave it there and forget about it.
This bolt would be visible from the back seat as you are looking over the side panel as if you were going to look (but of course you can't) down at the tire from the inside of the car. This process is obviously much easier than the next, however, if the motor somehow gets activated and the ram starts going up and down, there likely would be damage to top frame components.
The other way would be to:
1. Take out the back seat bottom and backrest.
2. Lift up the barrier to expose the hydraulic pump.
3. Get lots of rags to mop up hydraulic fluid.
4. Unbolt the two hydraulic fittings that are connected to the pump. At this time, you lay the rags down in the floor area so that you can catch the hydraulic fluid.
5. Unlatch the two front clamps of the convertible at the header like you are getting ready to put down the convertible top. Get ready for the mess!
6. Slowly lower the convertible top into the well as you mop up the hydraulic fluid that comes streaming out of the hydraulic hoses. Lift the convertible top again and repeat putting it down into the well several times.
7. Now that you have manually removed the fluid, leave the hoses unbolted from the motor, preferrably with a large rag wrapped around the ends to catch residual fluid.
Now that you have air travelling through the hydraulic lines, the top can be lifted and lowered manually, although lifting it out of the well for the first 10" won't be easy.
Good luck!
#4
Yeah, I just disconnected it from the top frame.....So, to reattach it I just have to reinsert the two bolts through the top frame. Don't think I will. Yeah, its a pain to raise it for the first 10-15 inches, but after that its fine. And frankly, I have too many other things to invest 300 bucks in right now. I don't mind having a manual top.
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