quarter pad help needed
#1
quarter pad help needed
I have been able to find enough installation help online--as per my previous thread.
What I need now is some help on the quarter pads. The car had none, so its difficult to lay them on the new pads and trace the locations of the holes. I haven't a clue as to where they go, or how they attach. They do not seem to be able to reach from the trim sticks to any bow tack strip. Do they follow the edge of the quarter glass?
What I need now is some help on the quarter pads. The car had none, so its difficult to lay them on the new pads and trace the locations of the holes. I haven't a clue as to where they go, or how they attach. They do not seem to be able to reach from the trim sticks to any bow tack strip. Do they follow the edge of the quarter glass?
#2
O.K. Pilgrim(I have always wanted to say that!), this is getting serious now.
The 1/4 pads staple at the bow above the back window down at an angle to terminate in the middle of the curve of the quarter panel. You need to staple them on to the trim stick to the side so that they don't stick out into the glass opening.
Of course you will have already installed the back glass first.
These are hard to get at the correct angle and are the reason that the last installer decided NOT to install them. Hard for you to understand unless you saw the previous ones and how they were installed.
The 1/4 pads staple at the bow above the back window down at an angle to terminate in the middle of the curve of the quarter panel. You need to staple them on to the trim stick to the side so that they don't stick out into the glass opening.
Of course you will have already installed the back glass first.
These are hard to get at the correct angle and are the reason that the last installer decided NOT to install them. Hard for you to understand unless you saw the previous ones and how they were installed.
#3
scan,
Thanks for that info. Its a start. Let me see if I understand.... The straight edge lays just outside of the window, and the pad goes from the edge of the window area toward the outside.
So the order of installation would be:
top pads
rear curtain
rear quarter pads
top
I am assuming that I will install and remove the rear trim sticks several times as I check the fit of the rear curtain and quarter pads before I fully staple those to the trim sticks and install finally.
Thanks for that info. Its a start. Let me see if I understand.... The straight edge lays just outside of the window, and the pad goes from the edge of the window area toward the outside.
So the order of installation would be:
top pads
rear curtain
rear quarter pads
top
I am assuming that I will install and remove the rear trim sticks several times as I check the fit of the rear curtain and quarter pads before I fully staple those to the trim sticks and install finally.
#4
scan,
Thanks for that info. Its a start. Let me see if I understand.... The straight edge lays just outside of the window, and the pad goes from the edge of the window area toward the outside.
So the order of installation would be:
top pads
rear curtain
rear quarter pads
top
I am assuming that I will install and remove the rear trim sticks several times as I check the fit of the rear curtain and quarter pads before I fully staple those to the trim sticks and install finally.
Thanks for that info. Its a start. Let me see if I understand.... The straight edge lays just outside of the window, and the pad goes from the edge of the window area toward the outside.
So the order of installation would be:
top pads
rear curtain
rear quarter pads
top
I am assuming that I will install and remove the rear trim sticks several times as I check the fit of the rear curtain and quarter pads before I fully staple those to the trim sticks and install finally.
Cronological order is:
rear curtain
top pads
rear quarter pads
top
At least this is the way that they come apart from the factory.
Yes, you will have the trim sticks off many times - there is no other way to turn out a superior job. If anyone tells you differently, they are not being truthful. Just pad up the quarter panels with blankets or moving pads so that you don't scratch up the paint.
This is why the restoration of convertible tops is more expensive than many people think it should be - due to the many of hours needed in the fitting, taking back apart and adjusting, fitting, adjusting, etc, etc..
Good Luck,
scan
#5
Progress report.
I have begun installation of the plastic window. I marked the trim stick and cut out the holes for the studs, and put just a few staples in it. I matched the dimension from the old wind, 4th bow-to-trim-stick @ each side and the center. Then I stapled at the center, ends, and mid point. Installed the trim stick loosely with 3 bolts. After matching center line and distance to the rear bow, I put just a few staples --center, mid point each side, and end. Center line of the 4th bow is marked by a fine line scribbed into the bow. It falls right at the center pop rivet that retains the tack strip. Then I let it sit. It stretched, so I removed the mid point and end staples, and pulled until the window was more or less straight, and restapled. I am going to let it sit overnight, and stretch it again.
Quarter pads. Now that i have the rear curtain more or less in place, it appears that the 1/4 pads lie just at the end of the window flap. The curve in the top of the 1/4 pads looks to match the curve in the 4th bow. I'll have to temporary staple it ( after i am satisfied with the window) and then use your suggestion of padding to hold the pad out in position, and mark it on the rear and side trim sticks
Sound right so far?
As for matching the old installation, my advice is to be careful, and don't slavishly follow what is there. The old top was about 1/2" right of dead center. It was pretty obvious once I began to look closely. The Falcon that I did many years ago was similarly wrong--The third bow was twisted slightly to the rear. I replicated that exactly, but later determined that I should have made the bow straight. If I were replacing the original factory top, I would follow exactly what was already there because restoring means making exactly as originally produced. But this is not a restoration, and the last top was not original.
I have begun installation of the plastic window. I marked the trim stick and cut out the holes for the studs, and put just a few staples in it. I matched the dimension from the old wind, 4th bow-to-trim-stick @ each side and the center. Then I stapled at the center, ends, and mid point. Installed the trim stick loosely with 3 bolts. After matching center line and distance to the rear bow, I put just a few staples --center, mid point each side, and end. Center line of the 4th bow is marked by a fine line scribbed into the bow. It falls right at the center pop rivet that retains the tack strip. Then I let it sit. It stretched, so I removed the mid point and end staples, and pulled until the window was more or less straight, and restapled. I am going to let it sit overnight, and stretch it again.
Quarter pads. Now that i have the rear curtain more or less in place, it appears that the 1/4 pads lie just at the end of the window flap. The curve in the top of the 1/4 pads looks to match the curve in the 4th bow. I'll have to temporary staple it ( after i am satisfied with the window) and then use your suggestion of padding to hold the pad out in position, and mark it on the rear and side trim sticks
Sound right so far?
As for matching the old installation, my advice is to be careful, and don't slavishly follow what is there. The old top was about 1/2" right of dead center. It was pretty obvious once I began to look closely. The Falcon that I did many years ago was similarly wrong--The third bow was twisted slightly to the rear. I replicated that exactly, but later determined that I should have made the bow straight. If I were replacing the original factory top, I would follow exactly what was already there because restoring means making exactly as originally produced. But this is not a restoration, and the last top was not original.
#6
A correction.....
I found traces of the old 1/4 pads on the side tack strips. For those who might need that information, the 1/4 pads were about 4 1/2" from the end of the short (rear) end of the tack strip, and about 13 1/2" from the end of the long (side) part of the tack strip.
Tack them in with 3 or 4 staples, install the tack strip with a couple of bolts, and then pull pull/stretch and tack the 1/4 pad to the 4th bow. If they look good, remove the tack strip and staple completely. The vertical ( inside) edge lies close to the window--but not actually in the window area. Trim off the pad as it butts the stay pad--the one that runs from the header to the 4th bow at the side of the top. Make sure those pads do not interfere with the window when closing the door and the window is up.
I'll add more as I continue with the top installation.
I have a bit of ADD so I don't work at one thing at a time. I tend to jump around. That also gives time for my mind to work on solving problems while I do something a bit more mundane.
I found traces of the old 1/4 pads on the side tack strips. For those who might need that information, the 1/4 pads were about 4 1/2" from the end of the short (rear) end of the tack strip, and about 13 1/2" from the end of the long (side) part of the tack strip.
Tack them in with 3 or 4 staples, install the tack strip with a couple of bolts, and then pull pull/stretch and tack the 1/4 pad to the 4th bow. If they look good, remove the tack strip and staple completely. The vertical ( inside) edge lies close to the window--but not actually in the window area. Trim off the pad as it butts the stay pad--the one that runs from the header to the 4th bow at the side of the top. Make sure those pads do not interfere with the window when closing the door and the window is up.
I'll add more as I continue with the top installation.
I have a bit of ADD so I don't work at one thing at a time. I tend to jump around. That also gives time for my mind to work on solving problems while I do something a bit more mundane.
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