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Rear window blowing fuse

Old 04-17-2015, 07:39 AM
  #1  
zeroscum
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Default Rear window blowing fuse

Hi everyone, have a problem on my 07 GT Convertible I'd like to run by you. I did also post this under general but found this group just for convertibles too....

As soon as I press the rear window button a 5 amp fuse blows in the interior fuse box.

The front windows work no problem, but the second I press that rear switch the fuse pops.

I guess the first thing I was going to check was to disconnect the rear window motors and try the switch again to see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't than I know it's not the switch and its one of the motors, right? Than just through process of elimination I can plug the motors back in one at a time to figure out which is bad.

Does that sound like a good way to proceed?

And if so, can anyone tell me the best way to get to the rear window motors to disconnect them?

Thanks much!

Justin
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:21 AM
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I have been searching through the forums like mad, still searching....
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:01 PM
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Special20
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I have a 2003 and just replaced my drivers rear motor. I don't know about your model year, but I had to remove my rear seat(top and bottom), the side panel, rear speaker box and the rain shield to get to my motor. Yours can't be much different. Look it up on You Tube first. And yes, that is the way I would proceed. Good luck.
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Old 04-18-2015, 12:17 AM
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petrock
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Originally Posted by zeroscum
The front windows work no problem, but the second I press that rear switch the fuse pops.
That means there is a short somewhere in the rear window circuit. The others are not involved.
Does it blow if you press the switch up? Or is it only down?


Originally Posted by zeroscum
I guess the first thing I was going to check was to disconnect the rear window motors
There is only one rear window motor.


Originally Posted by zeroscum
and try the switch again to see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't than I know it's not the switch and its one of the motors, right?
Kind of. It depends on where the short is. Disconnecting the motor and seeing if the fuse pops is only going to tell you if the motor or the wiring between the motor connector and the motor is the problem. It won’t tell you where the short is between the battery & motor connector. It could be the switch, the connector for the switch or the wires between the switch connector & the motor connector.

After your motor disconnect test, connect the test light to battery positive. Disconnect the switch. Then touch the test light to one of the pins in the wiring harness side of the motor connector. Then touch the other pin in the connector. If the test light lights up on either pin then the problem is in the wiring or the connector to the switch. If it doesn’t light up then the short is in the switch.

Be VERY VERY careful with the test light when it is connected to battery positive. Be VERY VERY conscious of what you touch with it. Only touch the two pins I suggested you touch. Thats it… You don’t want to send 12 volts down a circuit that can’t handle it and fry something. It’s unlikely in the rear window area since there aren’t any sensitive components that I can think of back there, but as a general rule be very very careful.


Originally Posted by zeroscum
And if so, can anyone tell me the best way to get to the rear window motors to disconnect them?
I don’t have step by step instructions, but you could try checking out YouTube and/or buying the service manual for your year ride. I haven’t watched it, but these might help:


Good luck…
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