Ok,heres my problem.......I open my door,stick the key in the ignitionall the check lights come on properly,dome light works,accessories etc etc.But when I go to crank it,it clicks,then all power is lost.The only way to restore power is to open the hood,and hit the starter solenoid with the palm of your hand.I have replaced the solenoid 3 times,in hopes that I bought a defective one.I have replaced starter,battery,alternator,and checked all fuses.This is a weird problemn,all you have top do is tap the solenoid,but I'd like to fix this,so I don't look like an idiot everytime I wanna sart my car.Any suggestions?

make sure the battery cables are in good condition with no signs of corrosion on either end of them and make sure the connections are tight at the starter and the engine block for the ground cable. also make sure the positive battery cable is the first cable you attach on the hot side of the starter solenoid so there is no amperage loss when you attempt to start the car. get a battery terminal cleaning brush for a couple of bucks at the auto parts store and clean the battery terminals and cable connectors too. you might also check for corrosion on the small terminal where the wire from the starter switch connects to the solenoid also and make sure this connection is clean and tight too.

Thanks for the help,I really appreciate it.I will try these things when I get off work.By the way,would all that stuff really effect the solenoid?And why does it only come back on,when I smack the solenoid?I mean it runs like a charm,but only after smacking the solenoid.Anyways,thanks again,and I'll let you know what happens.

you said you already replaced the solenoid 3 times, so it is not the problem. this means the problem lies in the wiring most likely going to it and you should have stopped buying them with the second one. you would be surprised how just a little bit of corrosion on an electrical contact will keep it from making enough contact to flow the current needed to make a complete circuit. could be by smacking the solenoid you knock loose enough to make the connection good enough to start it again. electrical connections on cars can get a clear coating on them from something in the atmosphere around engines that prevents good electrical contact, so always make sure the metal surfaces are bright and shiney when making connections. wire brushes, pocket knives, emery board, anything that is abrasive can be used to clean the surfaces so you get a good connection. it evens takes a certain amount of current to energize the magnet in the solenoid to pull in the big switch that carries the large amount of current the starter needs, so just checking with a volt meter won't tell you that the connection is flowing the necessary current to do the job it needs to do.

Well sir,I appreciate the prompt reply's.You seem very knowledgeable in this area.I shall follow your instructions to a "t".By the way,what year is your pony?This is my 3rd one,I had a '91 when I was 18,then I sold it missed it so much I bought a '92.My wife and I had a kid,and decided the baby seat didn't fit too well,so we sold it.As soon as my kid was out of that infant seat,I bought another '92,only this is my first manual mustang.Although,I would say the '91 automatic was faster then both of the '92s.All it had done to it was,an upgrade chip,rebuilt tranny w/shift kit,and a K&N cold air intake kit.That sucker would scream,I was doing 10.8 in an 1/8th mile.Hopefully,with a few hard eaqrned dollars,this one will soon be running like that first one that made me fall in love with mustangs.

rdman...sounds like a bad postive wire there where it connects to the terminal

well,I don't about the positive wire,but I tryed what roundman told me.......and everything seems to be working properly now.I got out the ol' wire brush,and cleaned it up real good.Put a little dielectric grease on the posts,to help prevent corrosion.I'm kinda embarresed that I didn't think of that on my own.But thanks for the help guys.And,if I have any more probs with it,I'll check that + wire.Now I have another question,not sure if I need to go to another section or not though,but here goes........what would be a good cost efficient clutch for my pony?Keep in mind,I don't have alot of money.Just need something a lil better than OEM,but cheap enough not to break the bank.

Also verify to see if your auxillary ground strap is good. You can always run another one from the frame to the engine block.

checked it when I went to lunch,looks fine,but just to be sure I gave it a quick cleaning,and made sure it was connected good.Thx for the suggestion.All systems go!Now all I need is a new throw-out bearing,and clutch.Any suggetions on those items?

ok,the sh*t's at it again.Went to start it last night,and it did the same thing.Clicked then nothing,had to pop the hood and give the solenoid a good smacking,then everything came back on.This is really p*ssing me off.Anyone wanna buy a car?

Well,I changed my positive wire from the solenoid to the battery,and now it seems to be ok.Thx to all who replied.

bet it was corroded on the inside or at the fittings huh?

Yeah,the fittings is what I cleaned the first time.When I pulled the wire off,I stripped the insulation all the way off,and sure enough,it was corroded all the way through.It feels great to just get in my car and start it!

electricity is a strange thing and I don't trust something I can't see!!! I'm much more mechanically oriented and can do just enough electrical work to get by on sometimes! LOL
Glad you got things under control now!:)

damn I'm good!!!!!!!:D

yeah, but I told him why it was bad too!!! LOL

Also, along these lines. My 1992 was doing same thing. Inside the plastic covers on steering behind the steering wheel there is a gray wire with a large connectore/coupler. The snaps age, dry-out and the coupling looses contact. Obviously to replace this main harness would be a pain. Super-glued area where clips failed and used very small cable-ties pulled tight on harness connection. never has been a problem again and that was years ago.