I had to dig around on the internet to find out what HID kit would be the best bang for the buck. It took me forever comparing kits and getting feedback from others who had purchased different systems. So I decided to condense my research; if you are looking for a BI-Xenon kit or even a single kit buy this kit. Even though it’s one of the cheapest kits available, its quality is exceptional, especially for the price. You can order the kit off of eBay for $130.(newhalogen bulbs $45)The sellers name is FLASHPLUS[/b] and their feedback score is pretty high up there. You can order the single beam kits as well if your heart so desires. I will probably install a kit for my fog lights eventually. The company is based out of china, but they have another website – www.vvme.com (http://www.vvme.com/). You can order from there directly but it’s faster and easier to order off of eBay. Fast shipping reports from almost everyone. I ordered the H13-3 6000K bulb. The 8000K is too blue and not enough light is produced. The 6000K is a nice coolblue color and isn't as bright as the 4000K bulb.

Everything about the kit is A+ in my book, except one thing (which is easily fixable).

So without further ado: the installation of a HID kit on a 2007 Mustang V6.

Tools needed:

Flat head screw driver
Electrical tape
3M double sided foam outdoor tape (normally grey in color with red backing)
Ratchet
8mm socket
Qty 3: Red quick wire taps
Knife / Razor


Step 1:
Open the box and check the contents.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/01MainBox.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/02boxcontents.jpg

Apart from what the picture shows, there should be 3 screws (not needed) and 2 black metal frames that are clipped to the back of the ballasts. (not needed)

Step 2[/b]:
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Step 3[/b]:[/b]
Remove the factory headlight bulbs.

Step 4[/b]:
REMOVE the red rubber gasket from the OEM bulb. Place that gasket ONTOP of the HID bulbs own red gasket. You need to do this so the HID bulb will fit snuggly into the headlight housing. If you are keeping the stock bulbs place them in a safe location

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/03compare.jpg

Step 5:[/b]
Remove the black plastic radiator cover from the front of the engine bay. This is done by removing the 6 black rivets on top.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/10removeradguard2.jpg


After you remove these push-in black rivets you can lift the whole black radiator guard up and place it out of the way.

Step 6[/b]:
The HID bulbs have 3 connections that have to be made. A black wire, a red wire, and a third wire. Go ahead and put the bulbs into the headlight housing. There is some with lettering on the bulbs that say LOCK and UNLOCK. Turn them to the lock position. The wires that are coming out of the bulb will be near the frame of the car (closest to the ground).

If you are installing the BI Xenon bulbs, do not tighten them in all the way (past the lock position). They need to be loose so they have room for the bulbs to angle up when you turn on your high beams. The ceramic anode WILL NOT be at the 6 o’clock position. It will be cocked inward slightly. The bulb will also “feel” a little lose in the headlamp socket.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/23HIDBULBPLACMENT.jpg

This picture is the passenger side.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/14puthidbulbsin.jpg


Step 7[/b]:
Lay out the components as follows.

Place one ballast on the driver’s side – Remove the black mounting bracket from ballasts. Double sided tape (which will be applied later) will hold them in place forever.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/12layoutsystem2.jpg


Place one ballast AND the relay on the passenger side. The relay is to the left of the ballast.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/11layoutsystem.jpg

Stretch out the power cord and the other wires to there proper locations. Hiding them where you like.[/align]The 2 grounding wires for the ballasts – I used one of the bolts that hold the fuse block in place (you can see it in the picture above) for the passenger side. For the drivers side I used the bolt that the air box sits on.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/15runwires.jpg


Step 8[/b]:
Here is the problem. This kit is designed for use with other cars. The headlight adaptor doesn’t fit.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/04problem1.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/05problem.jpg

The solution is to cut the HID headlight harness off.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/06cutharness.jpg


Then strip, DO NOT CUT the wires on the OEM harness.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/07stripwires.jpg

Now attach the wires together.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/kdrshocker/08conectwires.jpg



FYI:
Green is Low beam
Yellow is High Beam
Black is Ground

After you secure the wire taps, wrap them in electricians tape. I do just to help keep everything together.

Step 9[/b]:
Then connect all the wires up.
· Attach the power cable to the ballast on both sides.
· Connect all three wires for the headlight bulbs.
· Connect the MAIN power wire to the battery last[/b].

Now everything should be hooked up and no bare wire should be showing any where.

Step 10[/b]:
Connect your negative cable back to your battery (do not tighten).
Turn the headlights on; you don’t have to turn the car on. They should come on and you should hear an electrical buzzing sound coming from each of the ballasts. If they come on, turn them off and tighten up the battery cable. Make su

Nice Write up. Very professional.

Kdr you are a god among men! I have the VVME kit and I've been looking for a writeup like this for weeks. Thanks!

Very nice write up and pictures. It seems a lot of people are doing these HID upgrades where they just drop them into the stock housings. I know on other vehicles people have had problems with wiring melting because it's too much current for the stock wires and problems with discoloration and sometimes melting of the housing because the HID bulbs get too hot. It will be nice to hear the reports after people have had them installed for a year to see how they're holding up. I hope it is good because it's much better than spending $800 - $1,000 for them. -Joe

ORIGINAL: djmac95

Kdr you are a god among men! I have the VVME kit and I've been looking for a writeup like this for weeks. Thanks!


No problem, if you need any help installingholler at me.


Jbailer - With all the research thatI did and the copious amounts of others with this same kit there havn't been any problems as of yet, but only time will tell. The wattage that is drawn from the HID system is only 35 watts vs the 55 watt stock bulbs. I was worried about the headlight housing melting as well but it hasn't "felt" any hotter than it did with the halogen bulbs. For a savings of $500+I am willing to take that chance :)

ORIGINAL: kdrshocker
Jbailer - With all the research thatI did and the copious amounts of others with this same kit there havn't been any problems as of yet, but only time will tell. The wattage that is drawn from the HID system is only 35 watts vs the 55 watt stock bulbs. I was worried about the headlight housing melting as well but it hasn't "felt" any hotter than it did with the halogen bulbs. For a savings of $500+I am willing to take that chance :)


Thanks! That's good to hear, definitely takes care of the concern on the wires and sounds like the heat isn't an issue either. 1 other quick question if I could, I've heard that if you drop the HID bulbs into housings that weren't designed for them it will majorly piss off on-coming traffic because the light is not focused properly. Have you checked that? Thanks again for the information. -Joe

That is true. Most people aim there headlights up way to high in the first place, so when they put HIDs in itsoncoming traffics worst nightmare. Plus the 07 housings don't have the diffuser on the end of the housing like the 05s and 06s. Before I put my bulbs in I marked where my cut off line was on a wall 25 feet out. After I put the HIDs in I put the car in the same spot to measure the alignment and the cut off line was almost in the same spot. The flare on the driver’s side is a little higher after the fact though. I have been driving around for 2 weeks now and haven’t been flashed at yet. I haven’t seen my light beam go above anyone's door seam either. I'll keep you posted if someone flashes me. (With their headlights):D

I'm just about ready to go HID. I am looking at the Retro-Solutions.com kit (Bi-Xenon). I, too, am going with the 6000K bulbs. I am trying to decide between the 35W and the 55W kit. When you mention "diffuser", are you talking about the little black thing over the tip of the bulb in my '06? I assume you like the HID light.

Awesome post. I will be looking at this when I get my own HID kit. Thanks for doing it. Great work.

marked in my favorites

Nice write up. Ordered the same kit last week from them along with the single H10 kit for the fogs. Do you know if there is any particular challenge with the fogs ? Do I also need a relay harness like the headlight setup ?

Thanks !

Very nice write-up, I'm planning on ordering from them also but from their website, they're cheaper that way. I'll probably do both my Stang and my truck. The guys I know running them for a while already haven't had any kind of issues.

my friend has the same kit on a honda prelude and im gettting it when i get my stang but they are sweet and prbly the first thing i will order for my gt...my budd got his for 75.00 shipped off ebay same box you have and everything but very nice write up and they look great man

good luck with them,i have had to send back both ballests so far,cheap china crap does not lastlong.then your stuck with shipping them back and paying for shipping.keep your stock bulbs close by.

Nice write up. When I was installing mines it took me a while to figure out where to put the ballasts. I attached the relay to the strut tower though.

Nice write up man, thanks. It's nice to see how some folk organize their wiring etc, yours looks perfect. :D

Not being a Dick or anything, but you don't have to bare the wires when you use the wire taps, they do that themselves when you compress them.

Thanks for all the compliments everyone!

goldenpony – The black thing on the tip of your bulb is a type of diffuser. It is normally a ceramic coating that keeps the light from coming straight out of the bulb. What I was talking about was the silver cup like cover IN the headlight housing itself. Also from what I found out I decided to go with the 35 watt kit because I didn’t want to replace my headlight housings right now. I was afraid that if I got a 55 watt Xenon HID bulb, there would be a greater increase in the possibility of melting the plastic housing (no proof if it will or not). To answer your last question, I love them.

madmax69ca – I didn’t order the fog light bulbs yet so I can’t give you a truthful answer. I can only assume that there should not be anymore problems installing the kit in the fog lights than installing them in your normal headlight housing. The only additional problem that I can foresee would be the mounting location of the additional 2 ballasts.

marcuskeeler – Thanks for the compliment! – I know your not being a dick. The only reasons why I stripped the wires was to ensure a 100% connection between the two. I also did it with this write up in mind and figured there would be a lot less potential “problems” if people just stripped the wires. Rarely (meaning I have done it and no one else has), those wire taps will just compress the wire down in the groove without cutting the insulation.

Here for a few days and already building a good name. Nice write up and report and I am sure many, including myself, will book mark this. As for China crap, most everything we buy is built in China anyways, its just you have to make sure there is a good chance to have recourse with the company you go with. Ill probably give it a go myself.

kdrshocker: I also went with the 35 watt kit. I think the 35W kit will be such an improvment over the stock headlights, I figured the 55W would be maybe too bright and other drivers already hate HIDs anyway so why make a problem worse, I also figured there had to be a lot less heat. I also went with 6000K bulb Bi-Xenon bulbs.I can't wait to get my kit in the mail.

Looks good. I am thinking of going with HID. Going from my G35 to this car, I can see why people like HIDs. First time I turned on my headlights in my mustang it didnt even seem like they were on. This will make a huge difference on visibility. So these work as high-beams as well?

I have been running the Retro-solutions Bixenon 55w kit on 3 cars, no melting here. $180 shipped w/ lifetime warranty is a good deal.

It was a straight plug n play kit, no splicing needed.

I'll be ordering 4 sets from them, I'll be doing headlighs and fogs on both my Mustang and my H-D.

Do the ballasts produce any heat? Don't know, and just curious.

lol way to copy my mod write up format!:D

miloman - I'm not sure if they produce a huge amount of heat. I know that they produce some. I'm not too worried about it. They are in the engine bay, they're made out of metal, they will get hot regardless. However, they do have to be kept under 105 deg. If they rise above that temp they will shut off. Air circulation is key to that problem.

tube - What are you talking about?I haven't copied anything...

Humm ... I saw on another forum a different wire connection:

black/blue
green/white
red/yellow

Source (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpost.php?p=950389&postcount=97)

Which one is correct ? Probably both work but what is the correct connections ???

yeah, i noticed that... the way i did it in my write up is the correct way.esp because i didn'thave a yellow wire. If you hook it up that way nothing bad will happen/ but your high beams won't work. You'll hear the relay click but that's all you'll get.

FYI - in cars ground is normally a black wire (one of the 3 wires on the OEM ford headlight harness); In homes ground is normally a green wire. Brown is another wire that is colored for Ground. The HID kits wires are white/blue/brown. white is the low beam, blue is the high beam and brown is ground, brown = dirt/earth/ground

I still wich someone had a writeup for the V6 PP fog lights. I don't like having lights that don't match. Nice job though, I'll be borrowing this for my reference when i do this.

Here you go !

Just installed the Headlights AND Fogsyesterday ! The V6 fogs should identical as I think it is using the same bulbs.

I wrote this write-up on another forum:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?p=1057681#post1057681

Kdr thanks to yourdetailed writeup I just got the VVME HIDs installed tonight and all I can say is wow! [sm=happy046.gif] There is an absolute hell of a difference in light output and the high and low beams work perfectly! The kit for me was a PIA to installand very timeconsumingdue to my lack of electrical systems skills, but if I can do it anyone can do it and now that it's done I'll never go back. Thanks again for the outstanding writeup! [sm=smiley20.gif]

Santa is bringing me the 35W, 6000K kit from Retro-Solutions.com. I can't wait to get them installed. I'm somewhat concerned about the demon glare, but I guess we'll see. After checking out a lot of different kits, I honestly believe this kit to be the best.

ORIGINAL: Goldenpony

Santa is bringing me the 35W, 6000K kit from Retro-Solutions.com. I can't wait to get them installed. I'm somewhat concerned about the demon glare, but I guess we'll see. After checking out a lot of different kits, I honestly believe this kit to be the best.


thanks bro! We believe them to be the best also, hence the lifetime warranty!

ORIGINAL: kdrshocker


The only reasons why I stripped the wires was to ensure a 100% connection between the two. I also did it with this write up in mind and figured there would be a lot less potential “problems” if people just stripped the wires. Rarely (meaning I have done it and no one else has), those wire taps will just compress the wire down in the groove without cutting the insulation.



IDC connectors suck. [:-]Stripping the wire back just allows a greater
chancefor water to migrate up between the wire and insulation.
If the wirewere not stripped back you would have better watertightness
between the blade and insulation but still not 100% watertight. Problems
with your headlights are in your near future. [:'(]Stripping, soldering and
then adhesive lined shrink tube like OEM is the ONLY way to go. ;)
I hate 3MScotchlock IDC connectors and they should have never
been marketed in the first place. [:'(][:@]
I dont know how many trailer lights I have had to rewire because
someone used those crappy 3Mscotchlocks.....

...

Mmm... when you guys say fast shipping how fast do you mean, because I've been waiting a week and supposedly according to the tracking system my lights have been somewhere between here and Japan for 3 days... [:@] I brought my car to school for a week and am paying the parking permits just because I expected the lights to be here and I could install them...

30,000 miles and a year and a half later, this HID kit is still perfect. The ONLY bad(not really) thing is the decals fell off the ballasts. Oh darn... I would buy this kit over and over again. Thanks guys and gals, I've seen my write up all over the internet. Allthough it has other peoples names on it claiming they made it up....

Thanks for the good instructions.
I followed them this morning to install my kit.
Install went great,took about an hour.
Don

Forgot to mention that with the new kit it is not necessary to cut and splice the plug that goes back to the original harness.