fielddoc00

I've got the engine in, wiring half way done and now comes a fuel question. Does anyone know the compatability of the fuel lines from a 00 V-6 and a 93 GT? The Mithcell manual says that my 00 has a return system, but it looks like a returnless system. One connector at the fuel rail and one small/one large fuel line from front to back. Can anyone give some advice?

NeoTokyo

If I recall correctly, its that that hard to make it a returnless system. Just remove the old retune line/unit and plug the line just before the tank or at the tank, dont make it un-reversable, you never know when you might want to swap engines back again and may need a return system.

Get a fuel line map for your car and track down the unwanted stuff and remove it.

Hey do you have pictures yet? I wouldnt mind seeing some of your stuff, I still dont agree with that kind of swap because some states like Cali will make you change it back but you can always tell them that it is a 99+ model engine and they wont look too much further into it.

Its been a while since I read your last posts, Im in Missouri now. I forgot what you were doing with that engine or what was wrong with it. I need the heads if you are willing to part with them. Too bad your not running a 32V mod motor, I have tons of engine parts I could trade.

Good Luck

-Neo-

PS. I am not sure if I already told you this but you would be vastly better off to bump the compression up to about 10.5:1 - 11:1 and put a set of 351Cleveland 4V heads w/ roller rockers and lopey roller cam and port match and you will be making some crazy power from that Clevor.

PPS. You said 93' GT, I really hope that isnt stock because it only made 215hp and had non-forged weak internals, 87-92 were the forged years for the HO (Typicly.) If it is stock then I would really recomend a 347 forged stroker kit for TMD on ebay for about $1200 bux and then make your Clevor and make even more power and know that its reliable on that forged bottom end. TMD offers pre-ballance kits which would be better because you could install them yourself and as long as you check you P's and Q's you will be just fine. I work at an engine reman facility called SRC here in Springfield and I put engines together all day long and it isnt that hard if everything is already measured and thought out for.

fielddoc00

Sorry I haven't responded back earlier, but this project has been killing my online time due to being in th eshop so late every night. I did find out that th eMitchell manual was wrong and my 2000 has a returnless system. Thank God I have my donor vehicle still and had to pull the fuel tank and all of the lines out. The engine has an E303 cam, SVO alum heads and 36 lb injectors. This car was doing low 13's in the quarter mile and he had a crappy reaction time off the tree. I only know this because before he abandoned his vehicle he left all his track slips in the car.

I do have pics from start to where I am now. I started this project because #1 I had a dodnor vehicle w/ running engine and #2 I found an article online about this engine swap. As you could probably imagine, the article was way off and now I could write a manual on the whole disaterous project. I having problems finding the fuel lines that connect my hardlines to my fuel rail right now. this has been the biggest down fall about living here in Hawaii. Tomorrow I should have the fuel hooked up and then on to the wiring. I need to get this girl purring by the 25th. Our only drag strip on th eisland is closing and I really want to see what she can do.

Let me know what other info you'd like on my project and I'll get it to you with pics.

Michelle