"How-To" Tech & Informational Threads
12-05-2009, 12:00 PM
#11
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
Posts: 6
if it just clicks its the solenoid. Make sure you have enough electricity going to the starter in the first place. Test the battery for 12.56 or better volts. You can get one at harborfreighttools for about $13. If enough juice, then replace the solenoid.
12-05-2009, 12:09 PM
#12
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
Posts: 6
Engine Cranks but wont fire
Help!!! I am trying to start up a 1966 Mustang Coupe, 289, 2bbl carb thats been sitting. Here's what ive done so far; drained the old (yellow) gas, flushed the lines, replaced, condensor, pointset (gap at .32 cause specs say .30 to .33) spark plugs & wires, new coil, new starter solenoid, new battery, distributor cap & rotor, new leads on coil to distributor and wiring from dashboard (ignition key) to coil.
I have tested the + terminal to engine block for continuity and its good. Key off-nothing, key on-i get an audible signal on my ACTRON CP7677 multimeter.
But no spark from coil to distributor, its a brand new coil and i even tested IT for resistance!
So i did it the old fashioned way (which can be painful) hold the wire from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor about 1/8th of an inch and look for electricity to try jumping from the wire to the center post on the distributor - nothing happens. I checked the wire from the negative point on the coil to and through the bottom of the distributor and the wire is good (continuity)
Engine cranks just fine but it wont start. Where is my electrical break?
I have tested the + terminal to engine block for continuity and its good. Key off-nothing, key on-i get an audible signal on my ACTRON CP7677 multimeter.
But no spark from coil to distributor, its a brand new coil and i even tested IT for resistance!
So i did it the old fashioned way (which can be painful) hold the wire from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor about 1/8th of an inch and look for electricity to try jumping from the wire to the center post on the distributor - nothing happens. I checked the wire from the negative point on the coil to and through the bottom of the distributor and the wire is good (continuity)
Engine cranks just fine but it wont start. Where is my electrical break?
01-28-2010, 03:26 PM
#14
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MO
Posts: 1
I have an 89 Mustang without power steering and I want to take the AC off but still use the factory tensioner, I've seen pics in the MM&FF mag with this done and it looks like the tensioner is pushing on the bottom of the belt instead on the top, does anyone know how to do this? Thanks.
03-02-2010, 04:18 PM
#15
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1
motor swap wiring?
I have 87 gt that im taking and replacing with a 347. It was a fuel injected motor and going with carb. But not sure what wires in need to keep and what i can get rid of? I want to get rid of as many as i can since its a drag car but still keep it sreet legal.
09-15-2010, 01:47 AM
#19
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4
1983 GLX Vert
I just got a 1983 GLX Convertible with the v6 and 3 spd with shift kit. I'm not sure what transmission I have? I want to put a 5.0 in. somebody told me it would pretty much just bolt in with the right flex plate and what-nots?
