General TechAsk model specific questions in the appropriate category below. All other general questions within. Sponsored by NewTakeOff
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
help I have a 1973 mustang convertible with what seems like a 302 I just recently bought a HEI from jegs to change over the ignition.
I found top dead center on the compression stroke took the valve cover off identified I was not 180 out etc etc proceeded to drop it in tried my best to line up the rotor with the post I had designated for number one then used the 15426378 firing order all the wires were correct and pop pop started but oh my god sounded just awful shut it down tried the 351 firing order just in case someone used a 351 cam? two days later tried everything under the sun went back to basics several times did notice when it did run for a bit I had no oil pressure on my gauge not to sure about that scared me some wondering about what haveI done now kinda thing I was wondering maybe my inexperience with the HEI rotor phasing like a little before the post or a little after the number one post in the cap well any help would be appreciated thnx
I have a 87 GT with 373 gears, BBK equal length shorties, h pipe, no cats, flowmasters, holley 255 gph fuel pump, edelbrock performer intake. I am putting a mass air coversion into the caroff another mustang, not the kit. I also purchaseda set of GT 40 P heads.My questions are..... What shouldI do to the heads to maximize performance?What throttle body shouldI use (mm?)? What brand.....should I stay edelbrock? I need to purchase a cold air fender mount, what mm mass air should I purchase? Will my BBK equal length shoties work on these heads? What cam should I run? I am keeping the car naturally aspirated and a stock bottom end with 100k miles. Should I leave the 19lbs injectors alone? Thanks for any feedback
Hello everyone. I have a quick question. I have a 2002 Mustang. I think my starter went out. All it does is click,but the car won't start. I am about to put in a new starter. However, is there a way I can find out if I need to replace the starter or the selonoid?
I ordered the same borla exhaust too, and love the way it sounds it also looks very nice. I have people asking me all the time what kind of exhaust it is because it sounds so good. I got mine from borla parts here, borla 11761 and was pleased with the price a delivery time. You should also check craigslist sometimes you can find a used set.
if it just clicks its the solenoid. Make sure you have enough electricity going to the starter in the first place. Test the battery for 12.56 or better volts. You can get one at harborfreighttools for about $13. If enough juice, then replace the solenoid.
Help!!! I am trying to start up a 1966 Mustang Coupe, 289, 2bbl carb thats been sitting. Here's what ive done so far; drained the old (yellow) gas, flushed the lines, replaced, condensor, pointset (gap at .32 cause specs say .30 to .33) spark plugs & wires, new coil, new starter solenoid, new battery, distributor cap & rotor, new leads on coil to distributor and wiring from dashboard (ignition key) to coil.
I have tested the + terminal to engine block for continuity and its good. Key off-nothing, key on-i get an audible signal on my ACTRON CP7677 multimeter.
But no spark from coil to distributor, its a brand new coil and i even tested IT for resistance!
So i did it the old fashioned way (which can be painful) hold the wire from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor about 1/8th of an inch and look for electricity to try jumping from the wire to the center post on the distributor - nothing happens. I checked the wire from the negative point on the coil to and through the bottom of the distributor and the wire is good (continuity)
Engine cranks just fine but it wont start. Where is my electrical break?
I have an 89 Mustang without power steering and I want to take the AC off but still use the factory tensioner, I've seen pics in the MM&FF mag with this done and it looks like the tensioner is pushing on the bottom of the belt instead on the top, does anyone know how to do this? Thanks.
I have 87 gt that im taking and replacing with a 347. It was a fuel injected motor and going with carb. But not sure what wires in need to keep and what i can get rid of? I want to get rid of as many as i can since its a drag car but still keep it sreet legal.
I just got a 1983 GLX Convertible with the v6 and 3 spd with shift kit. I'm not sure what transmission I have? I want to put a 5.0 in. somebody told me it would pretty much just bolt in with the right flex plate and what-nots?
i have a 89 gt cobra , i need help figuring out how to get the the clutch cable pawl and the quadrant to line back up . they will not work properly there for my clutch pedal will not work . can anyone help me out.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor