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FRPP is the way to go, even if they did whine I wouldn't be able to hear it, even on deaccel since my exhaust pops so damn much when I slow down.
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2000 Ford Mustang GT; Accufab 75mm TB&P; JLT cai; SLP lm2'S; Summit O/R H; Sniper tuned; 4:10's. SFC's, Tokico HP Series Shocks & Struts, H&R Super Sport Springs, MM Caster Camber Plates, UCA's & LCA's all are here; To be installed shortly
i dont know, if i were to do it over again id find other gears, theres this shop close to me called chicane you might have heard of them, well they wont do motive 3.90s cuz they say its a given that itll whine and youll be unhappy
I have heard numerous stories, some say motives are junk and whine, other have had them and had no noise at all. I'm starting to wonder if the supposed "break in" process recommended by motive actually needs to be followed. No other gear company I know of requires a break in period. Just motive. I myself didnt want to take a chance, plus the shop I used refused to put the motives in lol.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
mine said that after install just 500 miles of easy driving, do you know of some other break in precedure?
Ya, according to Motive reps, here is the break in procedure:
-For first 500 miles, use ONLY 80-90 weight, NON-synthetic oil.
-Once installed, drive for 15-20 minutes of NON-highway driving, in other words, put around town.
-After 15-20 mins, park vehicle and let cool COMPLETELY.
-Repeat procedure again, 15-20 mins of easy driving, cool completely.
-Do this a total of 3 cycles.
-For the remainder of the first 500 miles since install, do not enter highway speeds, easy driving ONLY. No WOT at all. No extreme loading.
My argument is this....thats a whole load of bull****! lol. The alloy that those gears are made of, cannot and will not ever reach a temperature high enough for a heat cycle or heat treat effect to take place. It can't see how its doing anything productive, but hey Im no expert so who knows. I just avoid it and buy FRPP lol.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
ya im already looking at new gears lol how are the 4.10s? I read guys saying after the swap its like thier 5 spd is a 3 spd??? i dont want that but then again going from 3.55s to 3.90s wasnt that big of a difference so maybe I could get some FRPP 4.10s
Do the s197s have a 3650? Im not sure what the final drive ratio differences between my t45 and yours are, but for what its worth, I recommend my 4.10s to anyone who will listen lol.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
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