You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Sounds like your daignoses is probably right. The booster replacement isn't too bad. The only thing that sucks is that you have to disconnect the operating rod from the brake pedal under the dash so that requires you to be in a contorted upside down position while you take the retaining clip off. You probably won't even have to remove the brake lines from the master cylinder so you won't have to bleed the whole system. I did one on a late 90's Yukon recently and I just took the mounting nuts off and pulled the master out of the way with the lines still attached. Just be sure not to kink them. Also, be absolutely sure you get the brake light switch reattached properly to the pedal (it attached to the same place as the booster operating rod) as the brake switch controls cruise control and transmission torque converter clutch functions.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Brake Booster - Difficult?
