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Cricket in my engine bay

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Old 10-03-2009, 09:49 PM   #1
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Default Cricket in my engine bay

In the last 2000 miles or so, a cricket like chirp has developed in my engine bay. It's very apparent during cold startup, but dampens out and completely goes away as the car warms up. The belt is fairly new (less than 5000 miles). I'm guessing it's my tensioner, but my question is, could it be coming from anything else?

If it is my tensioner, does anybody know where i can find a new one, and how hard it is to replace? Are there any special tools required to swap it out?

The car has 83,000 miles on it.

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2009, 02:39 AM   #2
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Could be (and most likely is) your tensioner but could also be pretty much anything else that the belt runs. Your best bet is to get a mechanics stethoscope and CAREFULLY probe around on different things when you first start the car to see where it is coming from. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!! It would be very easy to lose a body part since you are messing around with spinning pulleys and belts. Not to mention getting the stethoscope hung up and having it slap you upside the head or shot across the garage/driveway like a bullet.

If it is the tensioner, or pretty much anything else, you can get them at the nearest auto parts store. As for tools, you usually don't need anything special EXCEPT for a serpentine belt tool.

Last edited by hiboostwoody; 10-04-2009 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 10-04-2009, 05:20 PM   #3
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Thanks. Can I rent a mechanic's stethoscope like other specialty tools from auto parts store?
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P1SC Procharger w/ 3 core intercooler pushing 6lbs peak boost. Snow methanol injection. 75mm TB with match ported plenum. BBK x-pipe. Flowmaster cat-back w/ 4X18 inch tips. Transgo shift kit. Eibach Prokit. Bilstein Struts/Shocks. Roush LCA's. Roush 427R front sway bar. Suspension Technique's rear sway bar. Tuned by Mark Shackleford of Overkill Street Performance & Racing in Lawrence, KS.

13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

next step...up the boost
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:22 PM   #4
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I've never seen one for rent but you can usually buy one for less than $20. I think I paid less than $10 for the last 2 I bought.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:51 AM   #5
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even with a new belt on within the last 5000 miles you could of picked up some debris in the belt groves.take the belt off and run a pocket screwdriver threw all the groves and reinstall it.while you have the belt off check all the pulleys for nise and slack.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR.DIESEL View Post
even with a new belt on within the last 5000 miles you could of picked up some debris in the belt groves.take the belt off and run a pocket screwdriver threw all the groves and reinstall it.while you have the belt off check all the pulleys for nise and slack.
If it were just debris though, would the squeak go away after the engine warms up?

Also, after the engine warms up just a bit (needle gets to the C on the gauge), if I put the car in gear my rpm's drop to 600 (from 800) and the squeak drastically diminishes. I think I might try replacing the tensioner just for good measure to maintain good tension ergo maintaining boost and see if that fixes it.
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P1SC Procharger w/ 3 core intercooler pushing 6lbs peak boost. Snow methanol injection. 75mm TB with match ported plenum. BBK x-pipe. Flowmaster cat-back w/ 4X18 inch tips. Transgo shift kit. Eibach Prokit. Bilstein Struts/Shocks. Roush LCA's. Roush 427R front sway bar. Suspension Technique's rear sway bar. Tuned by Mark Shackleford of Overkill Street Performance & Racing in Lawrence, KS.

13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

next step...up the boost
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:29 AM   #7
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Check the idler pulley as well. They tend to go bad. An easy way to tell if its a belt noise would be to take a small dab of dielectric grease and put in on the belt, Start it up and if it is indeed a glazed belt then it should go away. If the noise persists, then you have another issue
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:50 AM   #8
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I have had this problem before on my 90 Mustang and other cars. It was nearly always the belt. Especially when I bought the cheap belts at the auto parts store, and used them. Belt dressing worked to get rid of the noise for awhile, but the final solution was to buy a very good belt that cost more. Gates is my preferred brand. The cheaper belts will stretch also. Good Luck.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:14 PM   #9
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UPDATE

I'm running a gates belt right now
I have not changed out the tensioner or anything

I think the chirping noise might be coming from my ac compressor. When the engine is cold, the chirp is present no matter what, but with the a/c turned on, the chirp becomes noticably worse. With the engine fairly warmed up, the chirp goes away, but when I turn my a/c on, the chirp comes back. Do you think it has something to do with the a/c clutch maybe going bad? I had someone turn the ac on and off and watched the a/c compressor engage/disengage and the chirping noise correlated with it exactly.

If my a/c compressor is going bad, is that something hard to replace? Can i just put a new clutch in the compressor i have?
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P1SC Procharger w/ 3 core intercooler pushing 6lbs peak boost. Snow methanol injection. 75mm TB with match ported plenum. BBK x-pipe. Flowmaster cat-back w/ 4X18 inch tips. Transgo shift kit. Eibach Prokit. Bilstein Struts/Shocks. Roush LCA's. Roush 427R front sway bar. Suspension Technique's rear sway bar. Tuned by Mark Shackleford of Overkill Street Performance & Racing in Lawrence, KS.

13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

next step...up the boost
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:15 PM   #10
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It could be the compressor or it could be something else (like the tensioner or idler) that squeaks when the belt has the extra load put on it when the compressor cycles. If it is the compressor clutch, you can change them but sometimes it requires special pullers to get the old one off. As far as changing the entire compressor, if you have some mechanical knowledge and tools you can do it but you will need to have your A/C system evacuated first and then recharged after you are done. Don't just crack the hoses lose without evacuating the system first. The refridgerant is under high pressure and you can be injured. Not to mention the fact that the oil in it will make a big mess and technically it's bad for the environment.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiboostwoody View Post
Could be (and most likely is) your tensioner but could also be pretty much anything else that the belt runs. Your best bet is to get a mechanics stethoscope and CAREFULLY probe around on different things when you first start the car to see where it is coming from. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!! It would be very easy to lose a body part since you are messing around with spinning pulleys and belts. Not to mention getting the stethoscope hung up and having it slap you upside the head or shot across the garage/driveway like a bullet.

If it is the tensioner, or pretty much anything else, you can get them at the nearest auto parts store. As for tools, you usually don't need anything special EXCEPT for a serpentine belt tool.
agreed and it can happen to stangs with only 6K miles on them too....mine was the idler pulley.....didn't start until after the install of the S/C
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:57 AM   #12
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what pulley are you guys referring to as the idler pulley. Are you talking about the extra pulley added with the supercharger that connects to my alternator? Or are you talking about the extra pulley just above the a/c compressor to complete the serpentine?
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P1SC Procharger w/ 3 core intercooler pushing 6lbs peak boost. Snow methanol injection. 75mm TB with match ported plenum. BBK x-pipe. Flowmaster cat-back w/ 4X18 inch tips. Transgo shift kit. Eibach Prokit. Bilstein Struts/Shocks. Roush LCA's. Roush 427R front sway bar. Suspension Technique's rear sway bar. Tuned by Mark Shackleford of Overkill Street Performance & Racing in Lawrence, KS.

13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

next step...up the boost
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:49 AM   #13
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The idler pulley will be the stationary one on the front of the engine that isn't attached to any accessory. It doesn't run anything. Just bolted to the front of the engine. Probably the extra pulley you are talking about.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:38 AM   #14
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so if it is my idler pulley, what do i need to do to fix the problem?

Do i need a completely new pulley?
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13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

next step...up the boost
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:10 PM   #15
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what kind of oil you use.. do you drag race it.. reason i ask is i had the same thing.. do you got mods.. if so.. it may be what mine was.. the lash adjusters.. check back with me..

sorry did see your SIG.. da
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:44 PM   #16
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I was thinking it might be my lashers also, just trying to think of all the possibilities. The has 85,000 miles though and I've run Royal Purple 5W20 in it ever since I got the car with 15,000 on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles religiously. The procharger went on the car at about 60,000 miles and the chirp started at about 80,000 miles.

I don't think it's my lashers though because the chirping is much louder from underneath the car as opposed to being above it. That's why I was thinking it might have been my a/c compressor clutch, but my ilder pulley is directly above that and with the direct load increase beneath it, it could be the reason as to why my idler pulley is chirping.

I think I might be leaning towards the ilder pulley though because one of the mounting points for the procharger bracket is the bolt for the idler pulley.

Anybody else have any ideas or come across this issue?
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13.1 at 108mph w/ a 2.0 sec 60ft on nitto 555's

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Old 11-01-2009, 02:03 PM   #17
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If it's the idler pulley, you can get a new one from any auto parts store for not a lot of money. They are usually pretty easy to change but I'm not sure about yours because of the supercharger. If you do change it, you might want to think about putting on a new serpentine belt since you will have to take it off anyway.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:23 PM   #18
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Default Squeak when cold

I too have devolped a squeak. I have replaced the belt, the tensioner and pulley, all the idler pulleys, I have a magnacharger on mine so I even replaced the idler that is added in that kit, and finally the alternator. Still there! ****. HELP? Could it be the cupercharger? I have about 30K on the unit and 40K on the car itself.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:00 PM   #19
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I got rid of my bird by changing the tensioner pulley and the belt (Dayco). But now I can hear a soft whirring metallic sound in the idler pulley. When I tried to remove the bolt on that one, I couldn't get it to budge - now I am afraid to try - I don't want to break it off. I have been turning CCW (2006 V6 4.0) because I figured the bolt has to be unbolted the reverse of the pulley rotation. I have PB Blaster coming today so I can soak it and try again, but anyone have any suggestions other than that? Is it worth it. I have never used the stuff - do I need to spray in front and behind the bolt?

I am a new DIY mechanic and don't think I am capable of getting a broken bolt out of whatever this is bolted to......(also I am a woman :-) , so I may be thinking I am putting too much pressure when it isn't really enough - I thought the tensioner was frozen in place until I got a long enough breaker bar). Just a little timid - want to make sure I don't make anything worse.

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Old 12-16-2012, 01:32 PM   #20
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Considering your RPM drop the A/C compressor is a safe bet. If the bearings in the pulley are going bad the engine may not be properly compensating for the extra load put on it when the compressor is engaged.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:32 PM
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2000, 67, ac, bay, belt, beltnoise, chirp, cricket, engine, fan, mustang, pulley, rid, serpentine, shelby, sounds, squeak, washing

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