Concerns about my ZX2, looking for some input
12-06-2009, 01:37 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 119
Concerns about my ZX2, looking for some input
I know this isn't Mustang related, but it's a car/engine issue that I'd like some input on. I apologize if I should've put this elsewhere. Also, sorry in advance for the length, trying to give all the details, I won't be offended if you don't read it, hahaha.
I'm having a dilemna with my daily driver, a 2003 ZX2 5-speed with just under 95,000 miles on it, probably 75% of them being highway. It's been owned by my Dad and myself since it had 3,000 miles on it, well maintained the entire time, synthetic oil since 45,000 miles that I changed every 8-9k miles, with a filter change at 4000-4500 miles in between full oil changes. Background is that I'm working in Virginia, managing a construction project down there, but I live in Columbus, OH, so I drive ~700 miles back and forth every week. On Thursday night, I was driving home, going through the mountains and had the cruise control on. I was climbing a hill, the car was slowing down, so I went to downshift, and when I did, the cruise didn't release the throttle immediately and spiked the engine to over 8,000 RPM before I could let out the clutch and bring the revs back down. Now, the redline is just below 7k, the tach reads up to 8k, and the needle went beyond 8k, all the way to its max on the gauge, I don't know exactly how high. I don't know why the throttle stuck like that, or why a rev limiter didn't kick in and stop the engine from free spinning so high, but the engine over-revved significantly.
When it happened, I knew it wasn't good, but the engine kept running fine, no odd noises, so I drove the rest of the way home (another 250 miles or so). Friday, we were driving the car and the electrical system fault warning light came on, flickered, then went off. I checked the voltage of the battery and alternator output, both were fine. Then last night, the light came on and stayed on. Now, the alternator is dead, not putting out any power.
My concern is that the engine free spinning so high has caused damage. It seems too coincidental that the alternator would just happen to die a day after this over-revving happened. Now, the alternator isn't too big of a deal, just replace it and go on. However, I'm worried that the engine may be a ticking time bomb, just a matter of time before it throws a rod, spins a bearing, or something along those lines as a result of the rather significant over-rev.
The car is in good shape, but it needs tires and a 100k tune up, along with the alternator. What I don't want to happen is that I put over $1000 into this car, just to have the engine go out in a couple weeks or months. Since I'm working in VA, the plan is to drive the ZX2 back and forth every week, but now I'm a bit concerned about the reliability.
What would you do in this kind of situation? Outside of tearing apart the engine to check the internals, what do you think I could do to check the engine's condition? I could drain the oil and look for metal shavings, but that's not necessarily conclusive. Would you gamble on the engine being fine, or would you change the alternator, then trade the car in to try and avoid the potential catestrophic failure?
I know we're not experts here, but I value the opinions of others who are knowledgable about cars. I'm trying to approach this rationally, I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on this car and then be SOL when, hypothetically, the engine blows and the car is worthless. Thanks!
And, of course, this all happens and I've gotta be on the road back to VA, so I've gotta take the F-150 and find another mode of transportation for my girlfriend. I guess maybe she'll have to drive the Mustang, but I've already put it away for the winter. Crappy ending to the weekend
I'm having a dilemna with my daily driver, a 2003 ZX2 5-speed with just under 95,000 miles on it, probably 75% of them being highway. It's been owned by my Dad and myself since it had 3,000 miles on it, well maintained the entire time, synthetic oil since 45,000 miles that I changed every 8-9k miles, with a filter change at 4000-4500 miles in between full oil changes. Background is that I'm working in Virginia, managing a construction project down there, but I live in Columbus, OH, so I drive ~700 miles back and forth every week. On Thursday night, I was driving home, going through the mountains and had the cruise control on. I was climbing a hill, the car was slowing down, so I went to downshift, and when I did, the cruise didn't release the throttle immediately and spiked the engine to over 8,000 RPM before I could let out the clutch and bring the revs back down. Now, the redline is just below 7k, the tach reads up to 8k, and the needle went beyond 8k, all the way to its max on the gauge, I don't know exactly how high. I don't know why the throttle stuck like that, or why a rev limiter didn't kick in and stop the engine from free spinning so high, but the engine over-revved significantly.
When it happened, I knew it wasn't good, but the engine kept running fine, no odd noises, so I drove the rest of the way home (another 250 miles or so). Friday, we were driving the car and the electrical system fault warning light came on, flickered, then went off. I checked the voltage of the battery and alternator output, both were fine. Then last night, the light came on and stayed on. Now, the alternator is dead, not putting out any power.
My concern is that the engine free spinning so high has caused damage. It seems too coincidental that the alternator would just happen to die a day after this over-revving happened. Now, the alternator isn't too big of a deal, just replace it and go on. However, I'm worried that the engine may be a ticking time bomb, just a matter of time before it throws a rod, spins a bearing, or something along those lines as a result of the rather significant over-rev.
The car is in good shape, but it needs tires and a 100k tune up, along with the alternator. What I don't want to happen is that I put over $1000 into this car, just to have the engine go out in a couple weeks or months. Since I'm working in VA, the plan is to drive the ZX2 back and forth every week, but now I'm a bit concerned about the reliability.
What would you do in this kind of situation? Outside of tearing apart the engine to check the internals, what do you think I could do to check the engine's condition? I could drain the oil and look for metal shavings, but that's not necessarily conclusive. Would you gamble on the engine being fine, or would you change the alternator, then trade the car in to try and avoid the potential catestrophic failure?
I know we're not experts here, but I value the opinions of others who are knowledgable about cars. I'm trying to approach this rationally, I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on this car and then be SOL when, hypothetically, the engine blows and the car is worthless. Thanks!
And, of course, this all happens and I've gotta be on the road back to VA, so I've gotta take the F-150 and find another mode of transportation for my girlfriend. I guess maybe she'll have to drive the Mustang, but I've already put it away for the winter. Crappy ending to the weekend
12-06-2009, 04:43 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 723
Ford Focus's are NOTORIOUS for having major electrical problems. I have had at least 10 in our shop in the last 6 months just for that reason and they were all about the same mileage as yours. The problems weren't just a general problem either, they were all over the board. My advice would be to put the alternator on it and get rid of it before it either starts being a real pain in your *** with electrical problems or you have a fire because of the electrical problems.
HOWEVER, if you want to keep the car, replace the alternator and then take it to a shop to have the computer scanned. Don't use Autozone or one of the other auto parts stores. Take it to someone that actually has something like a Genysis or Snap-On scanner. It's hard to diagnose or make a reccommendation without having the car to listen to it and see what's going on but I am going to guess that the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal is bad. That is what tells the computer to interupt the cruise control when you shift. The only other thing that I am wondering about is that possibly you have a computer starting to go haywire. This would account for the rev limiter not working. As for the engine, if it's not making any bad sounds and the oil pressure is still good, it's probably not hurt.
HOWEVER, if you want to keep the car, replace the alternator and then take it to a shop to have the computer scanned. Don't use Autozone or one of the other auto parts stores. Take it to someone that actually has something like a Genysis or Snap-On scanner. It's hard to diagnose or make a reccommendation without having the car to listen to it and see what's going on but I am going to guess that the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal is bad. That is what tells the computer to interupt the cruise control when you shift. The only other thing that I am wondering about is that possibly you have a computer starting to go haywire. This would account for the rev limiter not working. As for the engine, if it's not making any bad sounds and the oil pressure is still good, it's probably not hurt.
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