View Poll Results: Was this post helpful?
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll
11-04-2015, 12:09 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Powertrain Guides
- Ford Mustang Gt 1996 to 2004: Exhaust Modifications
Overview of popular modifications to customize your Ford Mustang
Browse all: Powertrain Guides
Top Ten Performance Bolt-Ons for Mustangs
02-22-2011, 09:55 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 8
Top Ten Performance Bolt-Ons for Mustangs
Ok, so I have received a lot of help from the forums and decided I would return the favor. A lot of the questions i see in the forums are "What should I buy first?" or "Whats the best bolt-on for the money?". I was the same way as a new Mustang owner. And I am adding this article that I think will benefit everyone when trying to up the performance of your pony. It helped me out and I hope it does for all new and not so new pony owners. It also helps out with the age old discussion on gears! It is also not in any particular order...meaning the numbers are not telling you what you should buy first. So without further ado......
Top 10 Performance Bolt-Ons for your Mustang
1. WHEELS AND TIRES
Custom Wheels don't make horsepower in the same way engine parts do, but if the wheels weigh less than the cars original equipment that saved weight does affect horsepower. Lighter wheels reduce unsprung weight. You can run larger tires with custom wheels. That allows a larger contact path, which can substantially improve handling. If you want to take your Mustang to a track day, high performance wheels and tires can do wonders for your lap times. Larger wheels allow more room for high performance disc brakes and their larger diameter rotors. Since stopping is as important as going fast, better brakes and custom wheels and tires are all part of the package.
From a strictly cosmetic standpoint, custom wheels and modern tires just look neat. Having a spare set of mounted custom wheels allows you to change a cars look from stock to modified and back again.
The biggest shopping consideration (besides price) for custom wheels is fitment. Make sure your Mustang's wheel wells have ample clearance. The suspension should be at ride height when measuring. It's a good idea to have a couple of friends sit in the car while you check and measure, because a loaded car sits lower than an empty one.
2. AIR FILTER
An engine is basically a pump. It produces power by ingesting an air/fuel mixture, igniting the mixture , and turning that combustion into piston/rod/crankshaft movement. That power is transported to the tires via the transmission, drive shaft, differential, and rear axles. Whether your Mustang is carbureted or fuel injected determines the type of air filter or cold air kit that's best suited for your application. The free-flowing cold air kit's are so ubiquitous on injected Mustangs that the kits seem like factory parts. Ford has adapted this technology for many newer Mustangs. Upgrading the air filter/air intake on a carbureted Mustang is almost a do it in your sleep project. The best advice for choosing a performance air filter is to talk to other Mustang owners who have had success with a particular companies products.
3. Exhaust
Removing spent gases is an important part of the power equation. In all things related to performance upgrades, efficiency is the goal. Factory exhaust systems are as much about meeting emissions requirements and keeping the interior quiet. A less restrictive high performance exhaust system is noisier, but for most enthusiasts that's a plus not a negative. pre-emissions Mustangs will benefit from a total header to tailpipe exhaust system. There are good headers for modern Mustangs, but often a cat-back performance exhaust system will make a noticeable improvement. Going the cat-back approach is a way to save money. Headers can be added later if desired.
Installing a complete exhaust system can push the boundaries of a bolt-on project, but there are many exhaust kits that are strictly bolt-on affairs. The key here is to be sure the company specifically made their kit to fit your car. Universal exhaust kits usually need massaging, which can involve welding.
4. Shifter
A high performance shifter is another one of those items that doesn't actually make horsepower, but it is a critical part of delivering power to the pavement. The quicker and smoother you can shift gears the less power is lost. To keep a high performance engine in its sweet spot you need to be able to shift without significant RPM drops.
Factory shifters for M/T Mustangs get the job done, but manufacturers are reluctant to spend extra money to include a performance shifter. This is an example of the accounting overruling the engineers.
Adding a performance or short-throw shifter will also make driving more enjoyable. Aftermarket shifters are also stronger and better suited to handle the extra abuse generated by a hot engine.
5. BRAKES
A true high performance Mustang needs to stop and handle as well as it generate power. Going fast usually involves stopping quickly unless you do all your high speed driving on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Brake improvements can be as basic as installing performance brake pads/shoes or as exotic as fitting large diameter rotors and multi-piston calipers to all four corners. There are any excellent brake kits that contain everything needed for a four-wheel disc brake conversion. If you drive a modern car a '65 Mustang with drum brakes will barely seem like a step above a Flintstone flyer. Better brakes are a very important safety feature that should be on any high performance Mustang.
6. GEARS
Upgrading the gears or even the whole rearend pushes the definition of a bolt-on upgrade, but at its core a gear change is just a messy remove and replace operation. The goal of a gear change is to switch to a performance ratio instead of the fuel economy ratios favored by the factory. A lower gear set(higher numerically) will give a noticeable performance jump, especially off the line. A ratio in the mid-to-upper threes will put the engine in its power band quicker, which equals improved acceleration. Ratios in the fours are better for serious drag racing and not as livable for street driving. Upgrading to a stronger rearend and axles will lessen the chances of breakage if the engine's horsepower is significantly increased.
*I know this paragraph will cause some debate in this forum, but I assure you this comes from a reputable source within the Ford company itself*
7 NITROUS OXIDE
Nitrous Oxide systems are for short-term acceleration bursts like drag racing. They're not practical for daily driving, because you would quickly run out of nitrous oxide gas and you'd probably be arrested for speeding. Plus, NOS isn't cheap. The key thing to watch for when shopping for a nitrous system is that it's matched to your engine. Stronger internal engine parts are necessary for big shots of NOS. The sudden addition of a couple hundred horse power can break a crankshaft or throw a connecting rod.
8. SUPERCHARGER
Superchargers or blowers are among the most expensive bolt-on performance parts, but they can easily add an extra hundred horsepower. Installing a supercharger at home is easiest on early Mustangs without emissions controls or computers. Even though the installation process can be rather complex and time-consuming on late-model Mustangs the power boost is definitely worth the trouble and expense. The best superchargers have detailed instructions, but due to the complexity of adapting all of the car's computerized functions having an experienced shop install your supercharger isn't a bad idea. Superchargers have become so efficient and reliable that Ford installs them at at the factory on some of their highest performance models.
9. BRACES
Mustangs are unibody cars which means they're light. It also means that they can have a fair amount of body flex. That's not good for straight-line performance, road racing, or spirited touring. Braces for Mustangs fall into two areas- under the car and the engine compartment. The under car braces are called subframe connectors. They make the car perform more like a full-frame car. Subframe connectors are particularly important for drag racing, but they also improve handling under twisty conditions.
Carroll Shelby and his team saw the need for a ore rigid engine compartment on the '65 GT-350. They installed a beefier export brace(it goes from the shock towers to the firewall)and a Monte Carlo bar(it connects the two shock towers). You can get Shelby braces for early Mustangs. There are also lots of special braces for late-model Mustangs A roll bar or cage is a more extreme way of adding stiffness to a Mustang.
10. SEATS AND SAFETY GEAR
Safety gear doesn't add horsepower, but you may be ore comfortable driving aggressively knowing you're well protected. Sliding around the interior affects your ability to control the car, which affects performance. This is especially true if you participate in track day or slalom course activities. Depending on how fast your Mustang is many sanctioning bodies require roll bars. Bolt-in roll bars are available, so they can be installed at home without any welding.
Factory seat belts are excellent in late-model Mustangs, but earlier cars can benefit from performance belts. The more serious you are about going fast, the more you can use a five-point belt system that includes an anti-submarine strap and quick release.
I hope this helps answer a lot of questions for new comers and veterans alike. And just so everyone knows, this info did come from a very reputable source who knows a lot about the Mustang engines.
Top 10 Performance Bolt-Ons for your Mustang
1. WHEELS AND TIRES
Custom Wheels don't make horsepower in the same way engine parts do, but if the wheels weigh less than the cars original equipment that saved weight does affect horsepower. Lighter wheels reduce unsprung weight. You can run larger tires with custom wheels. That allows a larger contact path, which can substantially improve handling. If you want to take your Mustang to a track day, high performance wheels and tires can do wonders for your lap times. Larger wheels allow more room for high performance disc brakes and their larger diameter rotors. Since stopping is as important as going fast, better brakes and custom wheels and tires are all part of the package.
From a strictly cosmetic standpoint, custom wheels and modern tires just look neat. Having a spare set of mounted custom wheels allows you to change a cars look from stock to modified and back again.
The biggest shopping consideration (besides price) for custom wheels is fitment. Make sure your Mustang's wheel wells have ample clearance. The suspension should be at ride height when measuring. It's a good idea to have a couple of friends sit in the car while you check and measure, because a loaded car sits lower than an empty one.
2. AIR FILTER
An engine is basically a pump. It produces power by ingesting an air/fuel mixture, igniting the mixture , and turning that combustion into piston/rod/crankshaft movement. That power is transported to the tires via the transmission, drive shaft, differential, and rear axles. Whether your Mustang is carbureted or fuel injected determines the type of air filter or cold air kit that's best suited for your application. The free-flowing cold air kit's are so ubiquitous on injected Mustangs that the kits seem like factory parts. Ford has adapted this technology for many newer Mustangs. Upgrading the air filter/air intake on a carbureted Mustang is almost a do it in your sleep project. The best advice for choosing a performance air filter is to talk to other Mustang owners who have had success with a particular companies products.
3. Exhaust
Removing spent gases is an important part of the power equation. In all things related to performance upgrades, efficiency is the goal. Factory exhaust systems are as much about meeting emissions requirements and keeping the interior quiet. A less restrictive high performance exhaust system is noisier, but for most enthusiasts that's a plus not a negative. pre-emissions Mustangs will benefit from a total header to tailpipe exhaust system. There are good headers for modern Mustangs, but often a cat-back performance exhaust system will make a noticeable improvement. Going the cat-back approach is a way to save money. Headers can be added later if desired.
Installing a complete exhaust system can push the boundaries of a bolt-on project, but there are many exhaust kits that are strictly bolt-on affairs. The key here is to be sure the company specifically made their kit to fit your car. Universal exhaust kits usually need massaging, which can involve welding.
4. Shifter
A high performance shifter is another one of those items that doesn't actually make horsepower, but it is a critical part of delivering power to the pavement. The quicker and smoother you can shift gears the less power is lost. To keep a high performance engine in its sweet spot you need to be able to shift without significant RPM drops.
Factory shifters for M/T Mustangs get the job done, but manufacturers are reluctant to spend extra money to include a performance shifter. This is an example of the accounting overruling the engineers.
Adding a performance or short-throw shifter will also make driving more enjoyable. Aftermarket shifters are also stronger and better suited to handle the extra abuse generated by a hot engine.
5. BRAKES
A true high performance Mustang needs to stop and handle as well as it generate power. Going fast usually involves stopping quickly unless you do all your high speed driving on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Brake improvements can be as basic as installing performance brake pads/shoes or as exotic as fitting large diameter rotors and multi-piston calipers to all four corners. There are any excellent brake kits that contain everything needed for a four-wheel disc brake conversion. If you drive a modern car a '65 Mustang with drum brakes will barely seem like a step above a Flintstone flyer. Better brakes are a very important safety feature that should be on any high performance Mustang.
6. GEARS
Upgrading the gears or even the whole rearend pushes the definition of a bolt-on upgrade, but at its core a gear change is just a messy remove and replace operation. The goal of a gear change is to switch to a performance ratio instead of the fuel economy ratios favored by the factory. A lower gear set(higher numerically) will give a noticeable performance jump, especially off the line. A ratio in the mid-to-upper threes will put the engine in its power band quicker, which equals improved acceleration. Ratios in the fours are better for serious drag racing and not as livable for street driving. Upgrading to a stronger rearend and axles will lessen the chances of breakage if the engine's horsepower is significantly increased.
*I know this paragraph will cause some debate in this forum, but I assure you this comes from a reputable source within the Ford company itself*
7 NITROUS OXIDE
Nitrous Oxide systems are for short-term acceleration bursts like drag racing. They're not practical for daily driving, because you would quickly run out of nitrous oxide gas and you'd probably be arrested for speeding. Plus, NOS isn't cheap. The key thing to watch for when shopping for a nitrous system is that it's matched to your engine. Stronger internal engine parts are necessary for big shots of NOS. The sudden addition of a couple hundred horse power can break a crankshaft or throw a connecting rod.
8. SUPERCHARGER
Superchargers or blowers are among the most expensive bolt-on performance parts, but they can easily add an extra hundred horsepower. Installing a supercharger at home is easiest on early Mustangs without emissions controls or computers. Even though the installation process can be rather complex and time-consuming on late-model Mustangs the power boost is definitely worth the trouble and expense. The best superchargers have detailed instructions, but due to the complexity of adapting all of the car's computerized functions having an experienced shop install your supercharger isn't a bad idea. Superchargers have become so efficient and reliable that Ford installs them at at the factory on some of their highest performance models.
9. BRACES
Mustangs are unibody cars which means they're light. It also means that they can have a fair amount of body flex. That's not good for straight-line performance, road racing, or spirited touring. Braces for Mustangs fall into two areas- under the car and the engine compartment. The under car braces are called subframe connectors. They make the car perform more like a full-frame car. Subframe connectors are particularly important for drag racing, but they also improve handling under twisty conditions.
Carroll Shelby and his team saw the need for a ore rigid engine compartment on the '65 GT-350. They installed a beefier export brace(it goes from the shock towers to the firewall)and a Monte Carlo bar(it connects the two shock towers). You can get Shelby braces for early Mustangs. There are also lots of special braces for late-model Mustangs A roll bar or cage is a more extreme way of adding stiffness to a Mustang.
10. SEATS AND SAFETY GEAR
Safety gear doesn't add horsepower, but you may be ore comfortable driving aggressively knowing you're well protected. Sliding around the interior affects your ability to control the car, which affects performance. This is especially true if you participate in track day or slalom course activities. Depending on how fast your Mustang is many sanctioning bodies require roll bars. Bolt-in roll bars are available, so they can be installed at home without any welding.
Factory seat belts are excellent in late-model Mustangs, but earlier cars can benefit from performance belts. The more serious you are about going fast, the more you can use a five-point belt system that includes an anti-submarine strap and quick release.
I hope this helps answer a lot of questions for new comers and veterans alike. And just so everyone knows, this info did come from a very reputable source who knows a lot about the Mustang engines.
Last edited by abranger82; 02-23-2011 at 07:32 PM.
02-23-2011, 03:40 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,834
Good post 
Just curious... Did you list them in your recommended order or are they just numbered in the list?
My
. From my past experience and preferences, my list would look like this (in order of overall cost-effectiveness/bang for your buck):
1-Gears. Absolute best bang for your buck
2-Exhaust
3-CAI or similar
4-Chassis Bracing
5-Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, coilovers, etc)
6-Short-throw shifter
7-Brakes
8-Power Adders (N2O, Turbo, or S/C)
9-Weight Reduction (wheels, fiberglass/CF parts, etc)
Just curious... Did you list them in your recommended order or are they just numbered in the list? My
. From my past experience and preferences, my list would look like this (in order of overall cost-effectiveness/bang for your buck):1-Gears. Absolute best bang for your buck
2-Exhaust
3-CAI or similar
4-Chassis Bracing
5-Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, coilovers, etc)
6-Short-throw shifter
7-Brakes
8-Power Adders (N2O, Turbo, or S/C)
9-Weight Reduction (wheels, fiberglass/CF parts, etc)
02-23-2011, 04:12 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 8
Good post Just curious... Did you list them in your recommended order or are they just numbered in the list?
My. From my past experience and preferences, my list would look like this (in order of overall cost-effectiveness/bang for your buck):
1-Gears. Absolute best bang for your buck
2-Exhaust
3-CAI or similar
4-Chassis Bracing
5-Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, coilovers, etc)
6-Short-throw shifter
7-Brakes
8-Power Adders (N2O, Turbo, or S/C)
9-Weight Reduction (wheels, fiberglass/CF parts, etc)
Just curious... Did you list them in your recommended order or are they just numbered in the list? My
. From my past experience and preferences, my list would look like this (in order of overall cost-effectiveness/bang for your buck):1-Gears. Absolute best bang for your buck
2-Exhaust
3-CAI or similar
4-Chassis Bracing
5-Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, coilovers, etc)
6-Short-throw shifter
7-Brakes
8-Power Adders (N2O, Turbo, or S/C)
9-Weight Reduction (wheels, fiberglass/CF parts, etc)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diode Dynamics
Vendor For Sale / Group Buy Classifieds
28
05-26-2022 12:02 PM
