msally07

Replaced battery last week, now after 10-12 days, when I lock my car by the remote, after about 15 minutes, the headlights come on and stay on. I can unlock, then relock, and they come on again. This will keep going until I disconnect the battery - leave for 45 minutes, then reconnect. Replaced the battery in the remote, don't think that is it, I was no where near the car when the lights came on alone. Any suggestions before I take it to the dealer? Thanks

wayne613

Just 1. Check for dampness on passenger side near SJB/kickpanel area.

https://mustangforums.com/mustang-ts...LOOR-AREA.html

Anything funky non-engine related would most likely be the SJB as the cause. The cause of it acting funky is likely from the TSB related water damage and/or corrosion related to it.

PNYXPRESS

+1 especially since you are in FLA and we just had 4 straight days of rain.

msally07

Not to sound stupid, but checked kickpanel area, totally dry - sjb? tsb? The car sat during most of the rain and do not drive it through puddles could it be damp?

wayne613

Check under the carpet/floorboard. Often it will not actually soak into the carpet. Especially with the 07+'s, as they have a plastic deflection bar above the SJB to "try" to protect it.
You could also yank it to check for corrosion on the wiring harnesses, or it being wet itself:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=422&viewfil...ox%20(SJB).pdf

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. This is a bulletin given to FORD service locations/personnel about problems that have been reported that are recurring, and I guess verified x amount of (multiple) times.

SJB = Smart Junction Box. This is the secondary-brain and fuse panel(secondary to BEC/BJB in the engine bay) for the car.


This controls, or has at least a partial hand in controlling damn near everything aside from directly engine related components.

Lights, remote key-fob related anything is controlled by it.

msally07

Thank you so much - I looked under the tsb's found one from 2008 looks like it might be the door disarm switch - now just trying to find one to replace - does not look corroded, but that may not mean anything. I really appreciate your help - found the junctin box after your first response, just never called it that before.

msally07

Thank you so much for help

wayne613

No prob.
The service manual links should provide the rest for attempting this, hope it's the issue(https://mustangforums.com/mustang-ts...-LIGHTING.html)

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=441

MrShelby

I have a 2007 Shelby GT 8,700 miles I am the original owne . I started the car today and engine running very rough. I let engine warm up, same very rough. I pulled each Injector and coil plug off right engine bank one at a time , each time engine all but stalled. I then tried the same on the left side injectors and coils and no change in engine at all. The whole left side of engine is not firing, can you offer any suggestion as to a fix.

wayne613

With this pronounced an issue, I would assume it's throwing a CEL (check engine light). You can rent a code reader from autozone, and the net cost be 0 if you get it back to them that day. My advice would be to get the code(s) first. Likely point you to the issue(s). Or at the very least let someone else narrow it down for you.

Diagnosing a COP issue, and related is pinpoint test JC in the powertrain control and emissions diagnosis section (a separate released service manual set), but the online links don't exist for higher than "H". I've not looked much elsewhere, perhaps if you look for another set of those online manuals referenced somewhere else you could find it.

The wiring diagram is here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile...20-%204.6L.pdf

It's all PCM controlled, since the one side is working fine, I'd suspect a break along the red wires near the Ignition transformer capacitor running that side, or the capacitor itself (page 1 of the link above), they're inter-connected (PCM giving ground for firing), but that may be enough to cause insufficient spark for that side. If you can smell gas from the exhaust (as its not being burned), then it's likely something related. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=7&viewfile=...%20Systems.pdf

Or if you smell no gas, it may be getting spark on that side and no fuel. In which case, page 2 of the above link. Red wires again, but isolated from one side to the other(splits off to the 2 sides from the BEC's fuel pump relay). Checking voltage readings from one side to the other for the injectors will likely tell the tale. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=195&viewfil...ded%20View.pdf

I'm good with electronics, just don't mistake me for someone who knows much about engines.