GreyStang

By weaker I meant less horsepower.

And just because you got lower insurance because you cheated & didn't tell the insurace co about the mods doesn't make it "cheaper" Here each time I've asked for an insurance quote they always ask me if the engine/car is stock especially when asking for a quote on a Stang.

Ok so "sure" you can give a V6 more power than a V8 if you mod it,, duh.. so how much would it "really cost" to add lets say 100 more HP to a V6? And not just the cost of the blower.. I'm mean:

- cost of the induction kit kit + any other parts needed
- cost to install it (most noobs here can't do it themselves)
- cost of parts/install of other systems like the cooling system & maybe the trans(?)
- cost of a limited slip diff.. most 6'rs come with open diffs am I right?

It would be nice to hear an actual cost of all this by someone who's done it (Lil'Roush?), not a guess or from something you heard a buddies brothers friends neighbor told you.

LilRoush

It's not CHEATING by not listing mods for insurance. There is no law saying you have to. It just means the mods won't be covered by most places.

And if you want to go look dollar for dollar... it's cheaper to buy and mod a new 3.7L V6 to GT power rather than buy a new 5.0L GT. (99% of the time it holds true for most other generation V6 vs GT cars as well, and I did a break down at one point for 99-04 cars.)

This is a ROUGH idea for you for a 2013 V6 vs V8:

Price/hp numbers taken from Ford website (even though we all know the dealers and marking up the new 5.0L):

V6 Base $21,995 (after $1000 cash back) Gives you 305 hp
GT Base $30,095 (after $1000 cash back) Gives you 402 hp


V6 supercharger kit from ProCharger (Price from V6MustangPerformance.com website for full tuner kit - including fuel upgrades and the handheld tuner with preloaded tune from ProCharger): $4,770.

I assume no labor. If someone is going to build a race car, they probably can pull a wrench.

V6 - Total: $26,765 for 475 hp @ 8 psi
V8 - Total: $30,094 for 402 hp

So V6 wins the price per hp by a long shot.

But to be fair, you asked for labor to install. Just for kicks that leaves you $3,329 for install. I'm pretty sure any shop would be more than happy to take that amount to install a blower designed to be owner installed in an afternoon. Even if you got ripped off THAT badly, you still have over 70 hp more at the end of the day to race with.

So even with install, V6 wins.

I know some owners just NEED to have a V8, and they are free to do so. To me the same car with more power for less money seems like an easy choice.

Rolling13

I've never had any agent ask if my car was modded.

freyes

O.K. first of, there are almost no hardware differences in the drivetrain between the V6 and the V8, including the limited slip differential. Take a V8 mustang, pull out the engine and 2 piece driveshaft, and install the V6 with a slider driveshaft.

My V6 automatic went out the door for $22K. I had my Procharger installed and dynotuned for $1000.00 over the cost of the supercharger, which was the tuner kit, so $4700.00 +1000 = $5700.00. I also got an aluminum driveshaft for free, and installed it my self, as well as a 3.73 rear end gear. I make 430 hp to the rear wheels on racing gas. 410 on 91 octane Shell. Time at the 1/8 mile at irwindale was 7.864, which is about a 12.3 quarter mile. I still get 24 mpg.

My latest mods will run me about $2500.00. I'm replacing the hypereutectic pistons, powder metal forged rods and wrist pins for custom made forged pistons, Manley forged rods, porting and polishing the heads, adding meth injection, and dynotuning. With the addition of a smaller pulley, I will be making 600 RWHP. and I'm still not at the price for a slower V8. I should be able to raise my redline to 8000 RPM as my crank, rods and pistons will be blueprinted and balanced. A total of approx. $31,000 for the car and all mods to date.

There are several others that have followed in this route, and are making lots of horsepower with their V6 Mustangs

GreyStang

I'm really not trying to argue with you, I can see where a blown V6 would be a awesome ride, I just want all the facts on the table. Cheers

PNYXPRESS

The V6 use the same brakes and suspension components (with springs being the exception due to weight differences) as the V8, so I would say they corner the same if not better due to lower nose weight. The new V6 also comes with the LSD 8.8 rear, same as the V8 also, and if not you can pick one up for ~$400 or less from a junkyard.

When adding a blower to the V8, is a heftier cooling system needed? Why would it change on the V6.

LilRoush

I won't quote all of your comments. But first off, all my mods are claimed and very well documented and covered by my insurance.

Yes, the base cars are the same (as posted) which is why I didn't address 'upgrading' those parts.

Yes, the 'canned' tune straight from ProCharger is VERY safe and puts down exactly the numbers they claim. A custom dyno tune would blow the doors off the V8 in the hp department even more. If you want to add $300 for the dyno tune, go ahead... there is plenty left in the money pot at the end to turn out far cheaper than the V8.

As for people claiming shops getting over $3000 for install and tune, some shop is raping people and the customers need to learn more and shop around. I've NEVER heard a legit V6 blower install costing that much. Now maybe some high end full on custom build... but that isn't what we are talking about. We're talking shop cost to install a bolt on kit.

Ok, I will agree a newbie might take more than a day, so take a weekend to install for a rookie... it's still cheaper than the GT and you get to learn something new about your car as you build it.

We ARE talking about building a racecar (as per the first post), so that IS the point. The power curve of the SC'd V6 puts the line above the GT almost all the way through the power band - not just the high end. So they are mean street cars with the Pro Charger.

JayyVee

Just thought I would bleep this in here (For the most part I am soaking all this v6 goodness talk in and taking good notes), somewhere along the line it was said that the v6 only getting another 100HP from the Procharger kit, but this is not quite the case but does make a big difference if we're only discussing #'s and how much you get for well.. how much..

Stock the v6 puts about 250-270 to the ground, depending on drivetrain type, air temps, all that yada yada, with the drivetrain loss from 305 HP at the crank.

After getting FI'd, these v6's are putting down around 400-420 to the ground.. That is approx 150 HP gained at the ground, imagine the gain at the crank.. a 410 at the ground with 15% loss is approx 470-490 at the crank, yes? (All praise the aluminum DS at this point)

Not to mention these procharger kits are fairly easy to slap in. I'm looking at a Procharger myself, and found a shop locally that sells them and I guess gets a deal on them; they will install for free (if I'm feeling lazy - which I probably will my time is precious and hard to get a huge chunk of with 2 kids)

I am not at all knocking V8's; few more years and this v6 will get dedicated DD duty and downgraded from the garage in place of a 5.0 (or a shelby by then, who knows) built to be a true growling garage queen. There are pros/cons to both engines (I won't say cars they are the freaking same), I will have both so I will have no cons..