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1996 GT 4.6 Electrical Issue - Need Help Please

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:02 AM
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GTStangDad
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Default 1996 GT 4.6 Electrical Issue - Need Help Please

My son just purchased a 1996 GT 4.6

Neither of the windows will go up or down. I have checked the fuse/breaker
under the dash and replaced, no luck. I also checked the three larger fuses under the hood with no luck. I "doubt" that both motors would be bad but I suppose it is possible???

I plan on running direct power to the motor to confirm it is good.

I there anything else that could cause BOTH windows to stop working at the same time?

I don't currently don't have access to a tester, so testing the old fashion way by replacing wiring a step at a time.

Is there a better way without a tester?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:42 PM
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CaptainRon
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you also have more relays & fuses in a box under the hood. if you have the original owners manual then your in luck as it will show what fuse/relay is for what... & be sure to check all the fuses under the dash.

Last edited by CaptainRon; 05-20-2013 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:07 PM
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GTStangDad
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Originally Posted by CaptainRon
you also have more relays & fuses in a box under the hood. if you have the original owners manual then your in luck as it will show what fuse/relay is for what... & be sure to check all the fuses under the dash.
Yes we have the original owners and we purchased the Hayne's Repair manual tonight. We pulled the passenger door panel but I do not really understand the switch in there and how it works. Looking at the manual
it "appears" that the door lock button pulls power from the same line as the window button. The door lock button does work so I would think that means there is power to the button. If I am reading the wiring diag correctly (I am electrically challenged when it comes to reading them )power comes into the button first and then is routed through the yellow and the red wires to the motor. Is this correct??

Do you by chance know where on the passenger door window button I could apply direct 12 volt power to test the motor?? I am going to get my tester tomorrow so I will have that also.

If I can figure this button out, I may just by-pass the factory wiring all together and run direct power to it with an in-line fuse.

Thanks for any help - I am lost
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:48 PM
  #4  
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UPDATE - If anyone can help, please chime in.

I am not very electrical when it comes to auto's but I will try and make this understandable.

Took the passenger door apart and with Multi Tester, confirmed there is power to the window switch when the accessories are turned on. Also confirmed that the power does go out opposite sides of the switch when
the window button is pushed and makes it as far as the motor plug, right before the motor.

When I unplug the motor just outside the door and test the two sides of the plug(motor side) with the tone part of my multi tester it gives me tone. Does this mean the motor is bad?

How exactly does this motor work. There are two wires that go directly to the motor. If I were to connect pos. 12V to one side of the motor and neg. to the other would the window move in one direction and if I reverse the sides, would it go in the other direction?

I just want to confirm that it is the motor before wasting the money on a new one.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:10 AM
  #5  
petrock
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Originally Posted by GTStangDad
I "doubt" that both motors would be bad but I suppose it is possible???
Yes its possible, but unlikely. Since you have power at the motor you can rule out a blown fuse. Its most likely it is a bad ground somewhere.


Originally Posted by GTStangDad
Is there a better way without a tester?
You can bench test the motor with a pair of wires connected to batter positive & ground. Just be careful that the ends of the wires don’t touch or they’ll spark up and short. You could blow a fuse.


Originally Posted by GTStangDad
We pulled the passenger door panel but I do not really understand the switch in there and how it works.
Don’t feel bad. Its confusing to a lot of people. Window switch circuits are probably the most complicated circuit diagrams on the car. But once you understand how the switches direct power & ground, you can quickly see how it works.


Originally Posted by GTStangDad
The door lock button does work so I would think that means there is power to the button.
The window lock-out button only effects the passenger door window switch. It does not effect the window switch in the drivers door. So I would do your testing in the drivers door first since power (or is it ground I dont remember) to the passenger window switch goes through the drivers door switch via the window lock button.


Originally Posted by GTStangDad
When I unplug the motor just outside the door and test the two sides of the plug(motor side) with the tone part of my multi tester it gives me tone. Does this mean the motor is bad?
No. The tone function on the Multi-Meter is a continuity test. It just means those two pins in the wiring harness are connected somewhere. This is expected in this scenario. The continuity test only tells you if a circuit is broken or not. It does not tell you if the circuit is damaged or not. A voltage drop test is a much more robust test and can be used to diagnose 95% of all electrical problems on cars. It can tell you if there is break in the circuit, excessive resistance (damage) or a short in a single test.


Originally Posted by GTStangDad
How exactly does this motor work. There are two wires that go directly to the motor. If I were to connect pos. 12V to one side of the motor and neg. to the other would the window move in one direction and if I reverse the sides, would it go in the other direction?
Yes. All the window switch does is change which side gets power & which side gets ground.


good luck...
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:50 AM
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THANK YOU, Awesome reply !!!

It did in fact turn out to be both motors gone bad (go figure)?? I replaced
both and windows are working fine now. Bench test both motors and they are bad.

The passenger window will not work from the "drivers" side switch though.

Haven't ahd a chance to try and figure that one out yet. We moved on to replacing the gas tank grommet yesterday because leaked really bad when above 1/2 tank. Done with that now, going back to work on his window switch.

Thanks again for a great post
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