Rough running/Fuel issues?
09-11-2013, 08:47 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Rough running/Fuel issues?
Sup guys! I'm new here. I have an major issue with my car that I'm hoping someone can advise me on. I have a '01 V6 5spd (4.2 swap). My issue is that it runs horrible and lacks all power after about 10mins of running. I have to keep bleeding the fuel rail and then it will run ok kong enough just to get me where I'm going. Replaced Maf, new fuel pump/filter. As of now I got P0113 and 2 misfires (4 & 5). It also seems like when I'm driving I can hear a sh*tload of air getting sucked in. But can't find any vacuum leaks..? I also have my egr plugged until I get a new one in a coupke weeks. I'm also going to get to new plugs and wires and maybe a coil. (Although I replaced those last december when I did my engine rebuild). My dad who is a mechanic and has his own shop can't seem to pinpoint it either, plus he really doesn't care it seems. But o well right.. so I'm here to ask the experts of our cars. My fuel pressure isn't right, its very low and decreases as it runs. To less than 10lbs of pressure. Where should I start with this? I was thinking about getting a new fuel rail and purge valve and just about everything related to the fuel system. Idk. When she runs rough, she RUNS ROUGH. To the point it's a shame to own it. I love her tho and I need her to be 100% reliable again. Why do I have to bleed the fuel rail for it to run for a little? And when its rough, I cut it off at every light then start up and she flies for a bit but the roughness comes back very soon. Sorry for this long a** post, I'm honestly just desperate for help with this. Please help anyway you can. Thanx in advance.
09-11-2013, 09:12 AM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Oh and sorry i failed to mention that it does backfire heavily when under stress. and also those 2 misfires i have (4 & 5) have just came in within last 2 days.. But the ovrl problem has been there for a long while. (even before i did the 4.2 swap) it just has gotten worse. so add misfires with my original problem and i have a catastrophe lol.. but i'm going to fix the misfires today when i get out of Calculus class. so those will be gone soon.
09-11-2013, 12:38 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Sup guys! thanx for replying. I just got out of class and on my way home i bought a new coil pack, IAC valve (because i want to replace it anyway), and a new temp sensor (i had the P1285 code last week but it has disappeared, but i want to tackle any and everything to have my car back good).. Also, i left my car at the shop because i didnt wanna be in traffic with it acting like it is. ( runs horrible in hot weather). so im headed to the shop now to put these on and take care of the misfires.. (assuming the coil went bad again).. fuel pressure sensor you guys think? ok im going to get one tomorrow. and can I ask where the the FPCM is located? i probably wont see the reply till later, but i'm going to make a sure note to replace the Fuel pressure sensor tomorrow. Again, thanx for taking time to help me with this! much respect.
09-11-2013, 12:51 PM
#6
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Air in your fuel line is caused from cavitation of the pump. It would also explain the dropping pressure over time while running. You would smell gas if you had a leak.
Try this, let the car sit over night, put the key in the ignition and turn it to 'on' but don't start the car. You'll hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds as it pressurizes the line. It should be a nice solid 'fooshhhh' sound. If you hear any kind of grinding or loud clicking, your system got air in it and something is allowing that air to get into your system.
Ideally, the engine swap should not have been done until the unmodified car was running right to begin with. Now you've compounded your problems. Stick with the original problem first (fuel delivery).
Once that is fixed, then chase the other problems.
Try this, let the car sit over night, put the key in the ignition and turn it to 'on' but don't start the car. You'll hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds as it pressurizes the line. It should be a nice solid 'fooshhhh' sound. If you hear any kind of grinding or loud clicking, your system got air in it and something is allowing that air to get into your system.
Ideally, the engine swap should not have been done until the unmodified car was running right to begin with. Now you've compounded your problems. Stick with the original problem first (fuel delivery).
Once that is fixed, then chase the other problems.
09-11-2013, 08:24 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Sup guys, just getting back in from the shop. let me say this first, my car is running the worst it has ever ran as of this second. i had to leave it at the shop. okay now for i done when i got out of class. I put on a new IAC, New Coil, (for the misfires i had) and temp sensor.. also while i was there i had Advance deliver me a new fuel pump (although i bought a new one in march) i put that on as well.. and i hoped it would show something good, BUT, it didnt.. and let me say this, i never blindly throw money at parts just because; i know better than that. but for at this moment i am because i am trying to do everything possible to have my "Lina" (lol) running strong again.. although i spent money on parts that didnt solve my issue, im okay with that because at least i have new parts. when i run the car it only puts out about 20lbs of pressure on my ford fuel gauge tester.. that aint what its supposed to be i know, but that still AT LEAST should be enough to keep her running right?, but it doesnt.. i literally have about 5 MAF'S that i switch back and forth to see, and the problem is there. but like you guys told me, tomorrow im going to buy a new fuel pressure sensor. i wonder if i need the whole fuel assembly? when i cleaned my tank out yesterday, it had a lot of trash in it as well as water. (could see the bubbles in it). i'm also thinking about replacing my fuel injectors because they may be clogged?? and can i ask again where the Fpcm is? my apologies if this is too much too read (which im sure it is) but you guys are who i know who steer me in the right direction.. i may be leaving out something because im in a rush, but i will surely add on anything i missed later.
09-11-2013, 08:27 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Air in your fuel line is caused from cavitation of the pump. It would also explain the dropping pressure over time while running. You would smell gas if you had a leak.
Try this, let the car sit over night, put the key in the ignition and turn it to 'on' but don't start the car. You'll hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds as it pressurizes the line. It should be a nice solid 'fooshhhh' sound. If you hear any kind of grinding or loud clicking, your system got air in it and something is allowing that air to get into your system.
Ideally, the engine swap should not have been done until the unmodified car was running right to begin with. Now you've compounded your problems. Stick with the original problem first (fuel delivery).
Once that is fixed, then chase the other problems.
Try this, let the car sit over night, put the key in the ignition and turn it to 'on' but don't start the car. You'll hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds as it pressurizes the line. It should be a nice solid 'fooshhhh' sound. If you hear any kind of grinding or loud clicking, your system got air in it and something is allowing that air to get into your system.
Ideally, the engine swap should not have been done until the unmodified car was running right to begin with. Now you've compounded your problems. Stick with the original problem first (fuel delivery).
Once that is fixed, then chase the other problems.
09-13-2013, 07:02 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 6
Okay guys today I replaced the whole fuel sending unit and problem is solved! Running very nice! I still need to get another temp sensor that goes behind the head.. (they sold me wrong one the other day.) As of now I don't have one in, but she's running great! Thanx for the help and insight you all gave me. I have a few codes (unrelated) but nothing major, so ill look thru other threads to gain info on those. Thanx again fellas!
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