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Dies at the bottom of hills

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Old 12-18-2013, 10:31 PM
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Venm cobra taylor
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Default Dies at the bottom of hills

Recently my 98 cobra will die when I get to the bottom of long hills. Other than that it runs great. I've been ready a lot of forums looking for ideas but I've run out! Bought it about a month ago with 64000 miles on it. Mint condition! Here's what I've done- new plugs, ford racing 9 mm wires, new iac, cleaned maf with brake cleaner, new fuel filter,have checked all the hoses that I've see n sprayed all over with brake cleaner for any air leaks. So it only does it as on long hills where the engine has back pressure to keep you pretty much at the same speed(cruise control or not) so let's hear what anybody has to offer for ideas! It would be much appreciated!! Thanks, jason
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:35 PM
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Forgot to mention, it's when the clutch is pressed in to shift down. If I keep cruising after the hill for a period of time before I shift it's fine..
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:35 AM
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petrock
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Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
ford racing 9 mm wires
Waste of money...


Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
cleaned maf with brake cleaner
Don’t do that. Brake cleaner will leave a thin film over the sensor when it drys which can effect the readings it makes. You should use Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. Its available at most auto parts stores for a couple bucks.


Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
So it only does it as on long hills where the engine has back pressure to keep you pretty much at the same speed(cruise control or not)
When it dies does it just shut off or do the RPMs dip and its stalls? If it just dies, then its probably an electrical issue. If the RPMs dip and it stalls try giving it a little gas to see if that helps. If so then it may be a fuel pressure issue.

Good luck...
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:57 PM
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Venm cobra taylor
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Thanks for your input! First thing I'll do is use try that mass air flow cleaner even though I'm sure that's not the problem.. But yea, it instantly dies.. If I shift fast I can keep it running no prob. I had a new starter alternater and battery put in it before this started but never thought about an electrical issue. When the starter went out I had to push start it twice.. Do you think any of these would cause this kind of problem? What exactly runs the motor telling it to keep the same speed? Once again, thanks!
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:10 PM
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Here's another question. When I have my heater on high and am cruising down the road, I feel the heater motor kick on holing back a little bit of power. It lasts about 10-15 seconds when it turns on.
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
Do you think any of these would cause this kind of problem?
Yup. A loose connector or damaged wire could cause this kind of problem. My other thought was something going on in the gas tank, where the fuel sloshes to one side away from the pump and causes it to stall. However, that would be a sputtering stall, not an instant shutoff.


Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
What exactly runs the motor telling it to keep the same speed?
A mix of sensors and the computer tell the spark plugs and injectors when to fire to make the motor run.


Originally Posted by Venm cobra taylor
Here's another question. When I have my heater on high and am cruising down the road, I feel the heater motor kick on holing back a little bit of power. It lasts about 10-15 seconds when it turns on.
I’d connect a volt meter on the battery and see what happens when the blower turns on. It could be either a bad blower drawing too much current or a bad battery not able to supply enough current or an alternator not able to supply enough current.
The voltage with the motor running should be between 13.5 & 15 volts. Less then that and either the battery or alternator is bad or has a bad/damaged/corroded connection. Most auto parts stores will test your alternator & battery for free. Call ahead of course.

Good luck...
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