Diy Head gaskets replaced 2008 4.0!
#1
Diy Head gaskets replaced 2008 4.0!
Well let me start off by thanking mustang forum for existing! Saved me over $2,000 on repairs.
I have a 08 4.0 v6 and had several cooling issues starting with thermostat housing then radiator. Changed and had no issues from then. After about 4 months I noticed coolant foam in my oil. I thought to my self f@&k head gaskets! So I started researching online how to change, and I kept running into special tools required and timing chains all had special timing. So I priced used engines,sending to rebuilder. So much $$$$$! Not what I was looking to spend. So I grew up fixing all my cars and trucks. Head gasket small block Chevy no problem, 3.8 v6 mustang piece of cake! 4.0 v6 oh my god! So much detail in removing replacing and not to mention gear or pulley holders, cam holding tools! All add up to over $500. Low compression on all cylinders all hit around 120lbs not good. Started hearing valves more and kept filling cooling tank over and over. Not counting the several oil changes I did to get me by for a month or so. Well I t took me 1 day to disassemble, record, and make a list of gaskets I was going to replace. I spent around $380 on gaskets and small tools that I thought I had. Day 2 cleaned, installed gaskets and replaced all original parts in place. Now I'll post photos for details on timing chains, cassette chains and how I made it work without the special tools. And by the way i didn't resurface the cylinder heads. I had cleaned filed, measured and checked for even flat surfaces. If you have any questions comment and I'll get to you as soon as possible. My 4.0 is back on the road with even compression of 180lbs and zero coolant issues. Only battle I had is damn throttle body needed relearning which I you tubed and corrected that issue. Thanks to the guy in Australia who gave me the idea of tieing the chains to keep them from falling out of place!
I have a 08 4.0 v6 and had several cooling issues starting with thermostat housing then radiator. Changed and had no issues from then. After about 4 months I noticed coolant foam in my oil. I thought to my self f@&k head gaskets! So I started researching online how to change, and I kept running into special tools required and timing chains all had special timing. So I priced used engines,sending to rebuilder. So much $$$$$! Not what I was looking to spend. So I grew up fixing all my cars and trucks. Head gasket small block Chevy no problem, 3.8 v6 mustang piece of cake! 4.0 v6 oh my god! So much detail in removing replacing and not to mention gear or pulley holders, cam holding tools! All add up to over $500. Low compression on all cylinders all hit around 120lbs not good. Started hearing valves more and kept filling cooling tank over and over. Not counting the several oil changes I did to get me by for a month or so. Well I t took me 1 day to disassemble, record, and make a list of gaskets I was going to replace. I spent around $380 on gaskets and small tools that I thought I had. Day 2 cleaned, installed gaskets and replaced all original parts in place. Now I'll post photos for details on timing chains, cassette chains and how I made it work without the special tools. And by the way i didn't resurface the cylinder heads. I had cleaned filed, measured and checked for even flat surfaces. If you have any questions comment and I'll get to you as soon as possible. My 4.0 is back on the road with even compression of 180lbs and zero coolant issues. Only battle I had is damn throttle body needed relearning which I you tubed and corrected that issue. Thanks to the guy in Australia who gave me the idea of tieing the chains to keep them from falling out of place!
#3
Yes of course! Looking for my second 4.0 or possibly a gt. So I'm sure I'll be doing this once again. I have more difficulties with Japanese cars, no room to work in.
#4
I know this is an old thread but I would like to know how you installed the tensioners without the tool? I found a way to keep the camshaft and crankshaft from turning without the tools, but the tensioner depth? has gotta be pretty important before tightening, right? Anyone?
Also, the timing kit I bought has only one metal o-ring for the tensioners. Which one should it go on? Neither of the factory ones that I took off had one.
Also, the timing kit I bought has only one metal o-ring for the tensioners. Which one should it go on? Neither of the factory ones that I took off had one.
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