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The water blade....I don't use it on my car. I use it on customers, cause honestly, it speeds it up. The reason I don't use it on mine is that if I missed even a small spot or some dirt is left, that blade drags it across the surface.
I use it on theirs because I promise a good detail, not a paintjob that is attempting to get into car shows (original paint, 3rd owner, it's not that bad).
I bought one of those water blades, its not all it is said to be. I have trouble on all of the curves and differnt shapes of the car. I think the old fashioded chamois is the best.
As for a scratch If you can see the metal or primer and/or If you can get your fingernail to get stuck in it as you touch that area with your nail tip then its too deep and will require a paint job. Theres no way to touch it up with out being able to notice. If you dont catch your finger tip in the scratch then some 2000/1500 wet sand paper and wet sand it a little. Then using a buffer you buff the wet sand scratches back up to the shine it had before. Special compound used for that type of buffing should only be used. Thats how we did it in the body shops I worked at. If not take it to a body shop and ask them if they can buff the scratch out.
I noticed a couple small scratches on my rear driver's side and right top of my trunk. I'm 99.9% sure they must have been done by a key. I can see metal. There are so many miserable SOBs out there who are jealous of a nice car. Anyhow, my strategy is to buy the paint pens from paintscratch.com and then get a body shop to fix it. Or, does a body shop use a different approach for these kinds of scratches? Basically, I'm wondering what I need to supply them with...I want to make sure they use the absolute best paint match (paintscratch.com???)
Also, how long can I leave the scratches before encountering rust?
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