gibsonjb

New to this forum. I just wanted to share info on the cam install on my 06 GT. Had the new stage 3 comp cams installed and man they were worth every penny. I have not had it dyno tuned yet. They drive just like stock. The only time you know you have the cams in is when you are idling. It has a nice mild idle, just enough to let others know the car aint stock. But damn, when I hit the throttle the car just takes off. Very hard to describe just how impressive the acceleration is. The only downside was it took the shop damn near three weeks to get them in since the spring change was a b*tch. About $1500 for the install labor and 1000 for the cams and springs. Very worthy mod IMO. I'll post my dyno results in January.

My other mods-- JBA shorty Headers, Diablo 91 octane tune. C&L intake, Bassani catted X-pipe, Bassani cat-back, BBK 62mm throttle body, 3.73 FR gears, steeda UDP's, stage 3 comp cams, more to come

gibsonjb

Forgot to say my stang is auto, so I had to install a 3000 stall TCI torque converter with the cams. Love the converter.

Mach

sweet, got any vids??

lynwood78

[sm=icon_rock.gif] Soon my day will come.

mac10chap

i have heard that the cams dont do much by themselves for stock 05's+ b/c the stock cams are already about as good as it gets for N/A stangs. however, i dont have any evidence to back up what i have heard, just what my shop guy as well as others have told me. i was, however, told that the cams are good for about an extra 25HP+ on S/C applications or if you have a heavy dose of nitrous.

i am wondering if that stall you put on your car at the same time as the cams is what is causing the drastic increase in acceleration. i have always heard that an automatic with a stall is basically the same thing as having a manual, just without having to shift gears manually

06SSGT

How does the torque converter feel in daily driving situations?

skinjob

I could be wrong on this and I probably am but I'll give it a shot. Stall converters are another somewhat silly name for torque converters. I think you generally call them "Stall converters" when they are in some sort of performance context. The torque converter is a pseudo fluid coupling (not an offical fluid coupler, that's important to keep in mind) between the engine and the tranny. The torque converter consits of a pump and a turbine (and a stator, but I won't get into that). The pump is connected to the housing of the converter which bolts to the flywheel and then turbine is connected to the transmission. The pump throws the tranny fluid from the center of the converter to the outside edge as it spins which creates a vacuum which pulls the fluid from the edge of the turbine to the center which pushes on its blades (which are in a different direction than the blades of the pump) which makes the turbine move and your car go. The tranny fluid eventually gets to the stator which returns it to the pump. The "stall" speed is a measure of how fast the the torque converter will let the engine go if the turbine is not allowed to move. It depends on the converter as well as the engine. (The bigger the engine the higher the stall speed will be on any converter). This tells you at what point the torque converter is going to stop slipping and turn the transmision. The bigger the difference in speed between the pump and turbine, the more torque multiplication you get (think like gear reduction), but also more friction and higher fluid temps. A higher stall will allow you to make more torque longer which will allow you to launch faster. It does this at decreased efficiancy and increased friction. While you should change the torque converter with power upgrades it's not the magic thing people seem to think it is. You need to think about what the engine is actually doing, what RPM you are going to be running the car at and so on and so forth. It's not a change that should be taken lightly. (Everyone who made it to this point gets a cookie.)

Yours very non-argumentatively

-J

FuriousGeorge

Strange, I've heard the exact opposite. From my understanding you cannot use stage 3 cams with F/I because it will run you too lean, and stage 1 and 2 are virtually pointless unless N/A as well.

CrazyAl

The problem with the stage 3's and forced induction has nothing to do with running lean. (Running lean is ALWAYS an issue of improper tuning) The reason why Stage 3's are a bad idea with FI is becasue the overlap period is too long. That means the cam has both the exhaust and intake valves open simultaneously. That is OK if it's done right on an NA engine, but with FI the blower will just force fuel/air straight out the exhaust, loosing boost and screwing your fuel economy.

By the way, the HP gains from the Stage 3's have been well documented. Visit www.brenspeed.com and click the "Tech" link. Also go to m o d u l a r f o r d s and there's several threads about them. MusiccityGT, who is also a member here, has the stage 3's and posted his dyno charts. He got +38 RWHP I belive.

FuriousGeorge

Ah, thanks for the input. I just knew it was pointless to do cams with a s/c, but thanks for the clarification.