MICHAELPQLEMON

mossestang,
let us know the differance between the two temps when you find out. was wondering that myself. I would think the differance would be pretty much constant and whipple added the differance to there tune and lets ecm calculate after blower temps.

ytix

Timmay!!!: how right you are 'bout the crow's feet. I want to make fun of myself now for always wondering what those things were used for and never asking someone, lol!

Moose, I was attempting to flash the pcm when I noticed the leak. I moved the ignition switch from ACC to ON and the Pro-cal tool continued to only continuously blink the yellow LED. After a couple of minutes of no change in the pattern of blinking I wondered if the battery might be undercharged (it wasn't) from sitting in the garage for the past couple of months. I got out of the car to check the battery and as I rounded the left frontfender I noticed the smell of gasoline and could hear it splashing onto the concrete under the car. I could plainly see a small rivulet of gas coursing down the side of all 8 injectors and creating an overflowing lake in a few of the COP/spark plug wells!

Over the next few days I performed the usual checklist one performs when faced with a fuel leaks and eventually I got the leaks to stop. In the processI noticed what I believe to be two different issues that contribute to fuel leaks when deviations occur in the the unforgiving proper geometry of thefuel rail/injector/intake manifold system:
1 the outer diameter of the Whipple kit injectors where the upper O-ring attaches is smaller than the equivalent site on the stock injectors (the actual O-rings are the same size) allowing for greater tolerance between the O-ring and the kit injectors


2 pressure from the contact between the (properly installed as per instructions!) air inlet tube and the fuel line fitting underneath it is transmitted to the (properly installed as per instructions!) fuel rail allowing for change in the geometry of the intake/fuel injector/fuel rail system. Pic shows a butane lighter-and-metal-table-spoon mod that was performed on the underside ofan air intake tube much like the air intake tube in my kit.




I patterned my IAT sensor relocation directly after the postings of "RedFury" at this link: http://www.m o d u l a r f o r d s.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76316&highlight=iat+relocatio n(please remove spaces in the link before directing browser there).

moosestang

Is that something different with the 07's because my intake tube doesn't touch the fuel rail, but it is very close to the fuel line connection. You did get the 38lb injectors right and not some taller ones. I believe the 39 are to tall.

The pro cal tool says yellow flashing means ready to begin. Did it never go to solid yellow? It will take 3-5 minutes for it to complete the reflash, it's stupid slow.

ytix

No never changed from the steady rate and rhythm of the "Ready" flash.

hammeron

hey ytix, sorry if i read it wrong...

did you interupt the first flashing process
when you noticed the fuel leak?

moosestang

Also, this is a stupid question but, did you have the switch to the left for loading the new tune.

ytix

Moose, the above pic is of the stock injector, I was using it to show where the O-ring attaches and where the outer diameter is larger (stock) and the switch was to the left.

hammeron, no I never got a chance to interrupt the reflash because all I ever got was steady blinking yellow for a few minutes before I got bored and wonderedwhether the battery needed tending. It was then that I stepped out of the car and noticed the gas leak and shut er down. I wondered if the Pro-cal could detect the fuel leak and abort the reflash, but I've since fixed the leak and still all I get from the flash tool is the mocking yellow blink-blink-blink...

Ah, the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat...we play to winand when we lose it hurts our soft and tenderhigh-speed loving insides!

ytix

FRPP helpline representative sounded as puzzled as I am. He did say that a similar situation occurred in the past with another customer. It was caused by the "violet colored wire"being poorly insertedinto the OBD connector and therefore not making contact with the equivalent pin in the Pro-cal tool connector. No such luck in my case. He's overnighting me a second Pro-cal tool. Maybe it'll do the trick, maybe it won't, but I'm starting to lose that good vibe I would feel every time I looked at the engine or sat in the drivers seat...wish it would just be done.

hammeron

hey ytix, do you have a tuner (sct or diablo),
if so, plug it in and see if you have communications
with the PCM.....

moosestang

He must have with his mods. If he doesn't and he had a custom shop load a tune then that could be the problem.I assumethe stock tune has to be on the car in order for the whipple tune to load.

When I went to load my whipple tune I had allready plugged in the pro-cal tuner before I realized I needed the switch to the left position. I flipped the switch while it was still connected and it worked. You could try plugging it in with the switch to the right and then flipping it to the left, it shouldn't hurt.