HURST shifter dilemma
#11
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
I got my hurst for 190 shipped to me. I put it in the car in my driveway with just one side jacked up enough so i could slide under the car. The install is easy and it can be inserted through the hole in the console. I found if you put it in upside down and then flip it once it is under the car is easiest. Shouldnt really take more than an hour.
#14
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
Bull, your dealer is full of it. I've got it down to an art form and can do it (no kidding) in twenty minutes. Once the front end is up on jack stands you (summarizing the steps here):
Remove shifter console trim. Two philips head screws undernearth the arm rest.
Unbolt two nuts that hold the rear of the shifter to the underside of the shifter console. 10mm deep socket with extension needed.
Unbolt bolt at front of shifter (10mm wrench). This one has the least amount of room.
Unbolt nut that holds the bottom of the shift arm to the transmission arm. 13mm socket.
Pull out the factory shifter. Transfer two metal sleeves/bushings from the front of the shifter to the Hurst, and transfer two bushings in the bottom of the shifter arm to the Hurst as well.
Put Hurst in.
Bolt it in. Orienting the bottom of the shifter arm offset is VERY important.
Getting the factory shifter out from inside the cabin is no problem, but the Hurst shifter is tricky to get in the same way. You need to pretty much orient it straight down, then get underneath and twist it into place. The first time took me 30 minutes to figure out, now I do it in 15 seconds.
Once it's in, tighten you nuts and bolts, assuming you've lubed and loctited per the instructions.
I've been having problems with the shifter arm hitting my front BMR driveshaft loop, and have been trying to shim it a bit so it works with both the factory and Hurst shifters. I've got it down!
John
Remove shifter console trim. Two philips head screws undernearth the arm rest.
Unbolt two nuts that hold the rear of the shifter to the underside of the shifter console. 10mm deep socket with extension needed.
Unbolt bolt at front of shifter (10mm wrench). This one has the least amount of room.
Unbolt nut that holds the bottom of the shift arm to the transmission arm. 13mm socket.
Pull out the factory shifter. Transfer two metal sleeves/bushings from the front of the shifter to the Hurst, and transfer two bushings in the bottom of the shifter arm to the Hurst as well.
Put Hurst in.
Bolt it in. Orienting the bottom of the shifter arm offset is VERY important.
Getting the factory shifter out from inside the cabin is no problem, but the Hurst shifter is tricky to get in the same way. You need to pretty much orient it straight down, then get underneath and twist it into place. The first time took me 30 minutes to figure out, now I do it in 15 seconds.
Once it's in, tighten you nuts and bolts, assuming you've lubed and loctited per the instructions.
I've been having problems with the shifter arm hitting my front BMR driveshaft loop, and have been trying to shim it a bit so it works with both the factory and Hurst shifters. I've got it down!
John
#16
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
ORIGINAL: rford426
your dumb if you go to a dealer...print taco bills write up on it and go do it
your dumb if you go to a dealer...print taco bills write up on it and go do it
#17
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
ok man. Here's what you need to do.
F-that install price!
Go to depot or lowes, and get a few 10" wide pine boards, and cut about 6 of them, each about a foot shorter, and nail them together. Make two! They are like little steps, and I use them to raise my stang about 1.5 feet. Price is cheap, and just pull the e-brake, put her in 1st, and put a brick behind the rears.
Now the car is 1.5 feet off the ground, way high enough to do the install. Come on man, it will save $300.---In which you can save for more mods!
F-that install price!
Go to depot or lowes, and get a few 10" wide pine boards, and cut about 6 of them, each about a foot shorter, and nail them together. Make two! They are like little steps, and I use them to raise my stang about 1.5 feet. Price is cheap, and just pull the e-brake, put her in 1st, and put a brick behind the rears.
Now the car is 1.5 feet off the ground, way high enough to do the install. Come on man, it will save $300.---In which you can save for more mods!
#18
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
ORIGINAL: 22kart22
ok man. Here's what you need to do.
F-that install price!
Go to depot or lowes, and get a few 10" wide pine boards, and cut about 6 of them, each about a foot shorter, and nail them together. Make two! They are like little steps, and I use them to raise my stang about 1.5 feet. Price is cheap, and just pull the e-brake, put her in 1st, and put a brick behind the rears.
Now the car is 1.5 feet off the ground, way high enough to do the install. Come on man, it will save $300.---In which you can save for more mods!
ok man. Here's what you need to do.
F-that install price!
Go to depot or lowes, and get a few 10" wide pine boards, and cut about 6 of them, each about a foot shorter, and nail them together. Make two! They are like little steps, and I use them to raise my stang about 1.5 feet. Price is cheap, and just pull the e-brake, put her in 1st, and put a brick behind the rears.
Now the car is 1.5 feet off the ground, way high enough to do the install. Come on man, it will save $300.---In which you can save for more mods!
#19
RE: HURST shifter dilemma
Wow, what a ripoff. You can buy one new for $190 and the install is pretty easy. I paid $150 for one used when they were nearly impossible to find, and the install only took me about an hour.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
1
09-28-2015 10:53 AM