DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
07-27-2008, 07:00 PM
#11
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
THURSDAY NIGHT: After working an 8 hour day I came home and was excited to get started. Again, I worked until 2 am.
FIRST DILEMMA: First order of business on Night II, get my freshly painted valve covers on and replug coil over plugs (“COP’s”). I taped several coats of paper over the length of the valve covers to protect ‘em from chips/scratches. I seated the valve covers and replaced valve cover bolts by hand tightening them. I then pulled out my neighbor’s inch pound torque wrench (a tool that I hadn’t used before), set it to 89 inch/lbs and started torquing.
I heard a click but didn’t know that meant it was torqued and I ended up busting a valve bolt in the block!!! I was sooooo pissed! The broken valve cover bolt was flush with the block.
My father-in-law Tom arrived on the scene and tried to console me. I was kicking **** and swearing rampantly. He said we would have to get an Easy-Out screw bit and drill the bolt to unscrew it from the block. We bought the Easy-Out kit, removed valve cover and tried to drill into broken bolt. We couldn’t get drill to seat on small area of bolt.
I noticed the broken bolt slightly rotate. So I got a mini screw driver, (used for small screws as those in my eye glasses) and slowly worked the broken stud counter-clockwise until I could get pliers on it. Broken bolt removed successfully without drilling! Was I lucky or unlucky? Had to order a new valve cover bolt from Ford.
FIRST DILEMMA: First order of business on Night II, get my freshly painted valve covers on and replug coil over plugs (“COP’s”). I taped several coats of paper over the length of the valve covers to protect ‘em from chips/scratches. I seated the valve covers and replaced valve cover bolts by hand tightening them. I then pulled out my neighbor’s inch pound torque wrench (a tool that I hadn’t used before), set it to 89 inch/lbs and started torquing.
I heard a click but didn’t know that meant it was torqued and I ended up busting a valve bolt in the block!!! I was sooooo pissed! The broken valve cover bolt was flush with the block.
My father-in-law Tom arrived on the scene and tried to console me. I was kicking **** and swearing rampantly. He said we would have to get an Easy-Out screw bit and drill the bolt to unscrew it from the block. We bought the Easy-Out kit, removed valve cover and tried to drill into broken bolt. We couldn’t get drill to seat on small area of bolt.
I noticed the broken bolt slightly rotate. So I got a mini screw driver, (used for small screws as those in my eye glasses) and slowly worked the broken stud counter-clockwise until I could get pliers on it. Broken bolt removed successfully without drilling! Was I lucky or unlucky? Had to order a new valve cover bolt from Ford.
07-27-2008, 07:01 PM
#12
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SECOND DILEMMA: When tightening valve cover once more, alas, I cross threaded a valve cover bolt and it would not tighten down! Taking off the valve covers to paint them was becoming a dreadful experience, particularly because I could have forgone the step and just put the damn s/c on without the bling! I was fuming pissed at this point.
We had to tap the block hole so as to re-thread it. I had Tom do it as I refused to do any more work on the valve covers. Tom purchased a metric tap with the correct sized diameter, slotted it in the block and rethreaded. This was successful. Valve covers complete.
MY ADVICE: the paint job as described above came out amateur but the valve covers still look great in the bay. However, it is almost worth just having them professionally powder coated. If you decide to do this mod, take great care and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!! I still chipped some paint on the covers but the bay looks great with the painted parts and I can take pride that I did it myself. Would I do it again? Yes. The paint cost me $20. Cheap but great looking mod for the easy-going DIY’er.
PULLEY SWAP: Returned car to stock by taking off aftermarket UD pulleys and replacing with factory pulleys. Getting ‘em off is easy when you have a 220 volt compressor and impact gun. With the car in 4th gear, bzzzzzz, bolts off. I impacted crank pulley bolt and at first it was slow going, clicking and rotating the bolt. I impacted it for about 10-15 seconds and it popped out. The water pump was easier to remove just loosening the 4 bolts. I rented a crank pulley puller set from Kragen, and removed.
MY ADVICE: only use impact gun to break crank bolt loose, then remove it with a socket to avoid damaging the snout or the threading.
We had to tap the block hole so as to re-thread it. I had Tom do it as I refused to do any more work on the valve covers. Tom purchased a metric tap with the correct sized diameter, slotted it in the block and rethreaded. This was successful. Valve covers complete.
MY ADVICE: the paint job as described above came out amateur but the valve covers still look great in the bay. However, it is almost worth just having them professionally powder coated. If you decide to do this mod, take great care and TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!! I still chipped some paint on the covers but the bay looks great with the painted parts and I can take pride that I did it myself. Would I do it again? Yes. The paint cost me $20. Cheap but great looking mod for the easy-going DIY’er.
PULLEY SWAP: Returned car to stock by taking off aftermarket UD pulleys and replacing with factory pulleys. Getting ‘em off is easy when you have a 220 volt compressor and impact gun. With the car in 4th gear, bzzzzzz, bolts off. I impacted crank pulley bolt and at first it was slow going, clicking and rotating the bolt. I impacted it for about 10-15 seconds and it popped out. The water pump was easier to remove just loosening the 4 bolts. I rented a crank pulley puller set from Kragen, and removed.
MY ADVICE: only use impact gun to break crank bolt loose, then remove it with a socket to avoid damaging the snout or the threading.
07-27-2008, 07:01 PM
#13
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
THIRD DILEMMA: After getting crank pulley off, we had to clean/scrape old RTV sealant off the key on the crank snout as well as the key way (hole) on the stock crank pulley. We then put some RTV sealant in the keyway of the stock crank pulley and greased the crank snout and interior of crank pulley. We tried to get stock pulley to mount, however, stock pulley would not seat on key of crank snout!
Finally after examining the stock crank pulley, the key hole was indented just a bit which was preventing the pulley from seating on the crank snout. I grabbed a file and used the pointed end to remove/file the indentation. Once filed, we got the pulley on the snout and torqued to spec (65 ft/lb, loosen one full turn, retorque to 35 ft/lbs, and then one more 90 degree turn.)
This task would have been MUCH easier without the indented keyway which took us a bit to figure out. These are the types of situations you find yourself in when you take on a project like this.
MY ADVICE: maintain constant patience and know that the problem will eventually be solved.
ALTERNATOR: Removed alternator wiring harness, cut power cable, and removed the mounting bracket. Ed cut the ¼ thick alternator power wire at the very end of it leaving as much slack as possible. The saleen kit had an alternator pulley removal tool which is basically a socket with a multi-point star fitting that fits the alternator pulley. Using that socket with the impact gun, pulley came right off. I remounted the alternator using Saleen’s bracket and faced it toward the rear of the car.
Finally after examining the stock crank pulley, the key hole was indented just a bit which was preventing the pulley from seating on the crank snout. I grabbed a file and used the pointed end to remove/file the indentation. Once filed, we got the pulley on the snout and torqued to spec (65 ft/lb, loosen one full turn, retorque to 35 ft/lbs, and then one more 90 degree turn.)
This task would have been MUCH easier without the indented keyway which took us a bit to figure out. These are the types of situations you find yourself in when you take on a project like this.
MY ADVICE: maintain constant patience and know that the problem will eventually be solved.
ALTERNATOR: Removed alternator wiring harness, cut power cable, and removed the mounting bracket. Ed cut the ¼ thick alternator power wire at the very end of it leaving as much slack as possible. The saleen kit had an alternator pulley removal tool which is basically a socket with a multi-point star fitting that fits the alternator pulley. Using that socket with the impact gun, pulley came right off. I remounted the alternator using Saleen’s bracket and faced it toward the rear of the car.
07-27-2008, 07:03 PM
#14
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
STOCK WATER/HEATER HARD LINES: Now it was time to get after the bolt on the passenger side rear of the engine which mounts the bracket/water hose hard lines to the block. Bracket holds together the water/heater hose hard lines that route from firewall, through engine valley, to front of engine where coolant crossover is. From what I read, I thought this would be a daunting task.
APPROACH: Although it was VERY tight behind the block, loosening the rear bolt was not difficult once I found the proper approach. (See picture for best way to get at bolt.) Positioning my body at front of car, with left hand I reached over the headers, under the battery tray, and behind the block using a 13mm ratcheting box end wrench to break bolt loose. From this position, I could easily fit my hand back there to take off/put on that nasty little bolt.
APPROACH: Although it was VERY tight behind the block, loosening the rear bolt was not difficult once I found the proper approach. (See picture for best way to get at bolt.) Positioning my body at front of car, with left hand I reached over the headers, under the battery tray, and behind the block using a 13mm ratcheting box end wrench to break bolt loose. From this position, I could easily fit my hand back there to take off/put on that nasty little bolt.
07-27-2008, 07:04 PM
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
FOURTH DILEMMA: Due to the issues I was experiencing I jumped around the directions a bit. Initially, I placed a big rag in the engine valley like the directions told me but subsequently took it out for something else and forgot to replace. When I loosened the water/heater hose hard line bracket, the metal hose line that ran through the engine valley unseated from the nipple near the coolant crossover tube. Consequently, a couple quarts of coolant (quite a bit) leaked all over the place - floor, engine valley, rear of engine bay.
Keep in mind that despite having drained coolant in earlier step, coolant still gets trapped up top.
MY ADVICE: get a rag in that engine valley prior to loosening the bracket, and have a cork (or bolt that you can hose clamp down) available to plug the line. Or, I would recommend skipping ahead in the steps and immediately installing the new Saleen supplied water/heater hose lines to reduce the coolant leak.
Keep in mind that despite having drained coolant in earlier step, coolant still gets trapped up top.
MY ADVICE: get a rag in that engine valley prior to loosening the bracket, and have a cork (or bolt that you can hose clamp down) available to plug the line. Or, I would recommend skipping ahead in the steps and immediately installing the new Saleen supplied water/heater hose lines to reduce the coolant leak.
07-27-2008, 07:05 PM
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SUMMIT RACING HOSE DRESS-UP KIT: Tried to install the steel braided hose covering that I purchased from Summit for $20. It was EXTREMELY difficult getting the steel braided hose covering over the hoses and the stuff looked like cheap crap once installed.
This stuff was a major PITA. I got two hoses done before determining the stuff wasn’t worth putting on.
This stuff was a major PITA. I got two hoses done before determining the stuff wasn’t worth putting on.
07-27-2008, 07:08 PM
#17
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
FRIDAY NIGHT: I went to work Friday morning, tired and sore. After working a 7 hour day, I left home early to get a start on things. My body ached, and I was slightly sleep-deprived. But my will and drive (should read: obsession) to get the project done kept me going strong.
ALTERNATOR: I mounted the noise suppressor (wire + mini bracket) and mounted it to its new location on the alternator bracket. I missed this the night before as I wasn’t sure what a noise suppressor looked like.
MY ADVICE: be sure that the sharp points of the noise suppressor don’t stick upwards as the thermostat hose rests on top of it (later step).
RE-CLOCK ALTERNATOR: Ed & I contemplated whether we should re-clock the alternator (unbolting it and twisting the rear half into a different position then rebolting) so that the alternator power cable and wiring harness can route from the bottom of the alternator, not the top.
It is common lore among Saleen s/c owners that when the wiring/cable directs from the top of the alternator, the CAI inlet tube sits on top of it and crushes it. We decided not to clock it because my stock CAI inlet tube completely cleared it, also we had enough slack on the wiring to route along the side, not the top.
SOLDERING: Ed soldered the extensions to the alternator power cable and alternator wire harness so that it can reach its new location. He gave it as much slack as possible. Clearance was solid. Soldering is actually really easy.
Step 1: cut and strip wires to be soldered. Step 2: place shrink rap over wire. Step 3: connect two stripped wire ends by twisting wires together or into butt connector and crimp. Step 4: contact soldering iron to the wires, placing it under the wires heating the wires themselves, and touch a small amount of solder to the heated wires (not to the soldering iron). Step 5: place shrink wrap over exposed wiring and use heat gun to seal = water tight. Step 6: tape off w/ electrical tape.
ALTERNATOR: I mounted the noise suppressor (wire + mini bracket) and mounted it to its new location on the alternator bracket. I missed this the night before as I wasn’t sure what a noise suppressor looked like.
MY ADVICE: be sure that the sharp points of the noise suppressor don’t stick upwards as the thermostat hose rests on top of it (later step).
RE-CLOCK ALTERNATOR: Ed & I contemplated whether we should re-clock the alternator (unbolting it and twisting the rear half into a different position then rebolting) so that the alternator power cable and wiring harness can route from the bottom of the alternator, not the top.
It is common lore among Saleen s/c owners that when the wiring/cable directs from the top of the alternator, the CAI inlet tube sits on top of it and crushes it. We decided not to clock it because my stock CAI inlet tube completely cleared it, also we had enough slack on the wiring to route along the side, not the top.
SOLDERING: Ed soldered the extensions to the alternator power cable and alternator wire harness so that it can reach its new location. He gave it as much slack as possible. Clearance was solid. Soldering is actually really easy.
Step 1: cut and strip wires to be soldered. Step 2: place shrink rap over wire. Step 3: connect two stripped wire ends by twisting wires together or into butt connector and crimp. Step 4: contact soldering iron to the wires, placing it under the wires heating the wires themselves, and touch a small amount of solder to the heated wires (not to the soldering iron). Step 5: place shrink wrap over exposed wiring and use heat gun to seal = water tight. Step 6: tape off w/ electrical tape.
07-27-2008, 07:10 PM
#18
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SALEEN WATER/HEATER HARD LINES: Installing Saleen water/heater hard line & bracket is challenging but manageable. First, I mounted the bracket and hose hard lines which, when placed properly, actually clamps in place. Then, I assumed the position – body at front of car, reaching over headers under battery tray and behind passenger side of block). Had to locate hole with finger and stick it on in. All you young ones may have trouble doing this as you are not as experienced finding that there hole as the rest of us ; ) Once bolt is threaded, which is the hardest part, use 13mm box end to tighten.
After hard lines were mounted, you take the Saleen supplied 3/8” hose which is about 4 inches long and plug only 1” of it onto the end of the water hard line that points upward (to 2 o’clock). In a later step, this 3/8” hose will mate with and be plugged onto the bottom of the coolant crossover.
You can see the 3/8” hose at the head of the valley sticking up to 2 o’clock (right behind water pump).
After hard lines were mounted, you take the Saleen supplied 3/8” hose which is about 4 inches long and plug only 1” of it onto the end of the water hard line that points upward (to 2 o’clock). In a later step, this 3/8” hose will mate with and be plugged onto the bottom of the coolant crossover.
You can see the 3/8” hose at the head of the valley sticking up to 2 o’clock (right behind water pump).
07-27-2008, 07:10 PM
#19
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
S/C PULLEY SWAP: with a flathead, pull protective covering off s/c pulley on the s/c snout. Unscrew s/c pulley’s 4 hex bolts. Mount 3.4” pulley from Brenspeed upgrade kit. If I remember right, torque each hex bolt to 18 ft/lbs.
BOOST ACTUATOR STOP BOLT: With an allen wrench (aka hex tool), I removed the hex screw nut (stop bolt) that sits below the boost actuator on the passenger side rear of s/c head unit. This nut obstructs access to one of the 10 s/c manifold mounting holes. Taking out the stop bolt gives a bit more room to work as the mounting hole is directly underneath the stop bolt. Without removing the stop bolt it is near impossible to even seat the rear manifold bolt.
PLACING S/C ON BLOCK: After pulling off duct tape from ports on block, engine was now prepped to mount s/c. Ed and I picked up the s/c, which is VERY HEAVY and painstakingly mounted it atop the block. This was a PITA. It was difficult for the both of us getting it to seat properly as it weighed so much and our posture was awkwardly overstretched.
FIFTH DILEMMA: When lowering s/c onto block, the 3/8” hose, (installed in prior step) that points to 2 o’clock can obstruct the seating of the s/c. You may have to manipulate/push it out of way. This is why a third party would be helpful in mounting the s/c. Also, the coolant crossover is installed AFTER the s/c is seated. I freaked out when I thought that I did not have enough slack on the 3/8” hose (which is only 4 inches long) such that later it could actually be plugged onto the coolant crossover.
If the 3/8” hose is pushed down onto the hard line by more than an inch you will have a very difficult time making it reach/fit onto the new Saleen supplied coolant crossover tube. I was able to get the hose fitted to the crossover even though I pushed the 3/8” hose onto the coolant tube overlapping it by 1.25” but I totally forgot to test fit it first!
MY ADVICE: the Saleen instructions say to overlap hard line by 1.25” but I recommend only 1”. Also, more importantly, prior to mounting the s/c, TEST FIT the lower coolant crossover connection to the 3/8” hose by taking coolant crossover and mounting it before the s/c to determine if the fitting can be made. Once you know it fits, mount the s/c, place the crossover over the s/c snout and fit the 3/8” hose to the crossover’s underside. Without test fitting you may have to unbolt the s/c and take it off to manipulate the connection which would be a waste of time and total PITA.
BOOST ACTUATOR STOP BOLT: With an allen wrench (aka hex tool), I removed the hex screw nut (stop bolt) that sits below the boost actuator on the passenger side rear of s/c head unit. This nut obstructs access to one of the 10 s/c manifold mounting holes. Taking out the stop bolt gives a bit more room to work as the mounting hole is directly underneath the stop bolt. Without removing the stop bolt it is near impossible to even seat the rear manifold bolt.
PLACING S/C ON BLOCK: After pulling off duct tape from ports on block, engine was now prepped to mount s/c. Ed and I picked up the s/c, which is VERY HEAVY and painstakingly mounted it atop the block. This was a PITA. It was difficult for the both of us getting it to seat properly as it weighed so much and our posture was awkwardly overstretched.
FIFTH DILEMMA: When lowering s/c onto block, the 3/8” hose, (installed in prior step) that points to 2 o’clock can obstruct the seating of the s/c. You may have to manipulate/push it out of way. This is why a third party would be helpful in mounting the s/c. Also, the coolant crossover is installed AFTER the s/c is seated. I freaked out when I thought that I did not have enough slack on the 3/8” hose (which is only 4 inches long) such that later it could actually be plugged onto the coolant crossover.
If the 3/8” hose is pushed down onto the hard line by more than an inch you will have a very difficult time making it reach/fit onto the new Saleen supplied coolant crossover tube. I was able to get the hose fitted to the crossover even though I pushed the 3/8” hose onto the coolant tube overlapping it by 1.25” but I totally forgot to test fit it first!
MY ADVICE: the Saleen instructions say to overlap hard line by 1.25” but I recommend only 1”. Also, more importantly, prior to mounting the s/c, TEST FIT the lower coolant crossover connection to the 3/8” hose by taking coolant crossover and mounting it before the s/c to determine if the fitting can be made. Once you know it fits, mount the s/c, place the crossover over the s/c snout and fit the 3/8” hose to the crossover’s underside. Without test fitting you may have to unbolt the s/c and take it off to manipulate the connection which would be a waste of time and total PITA.
07-27-2008, 07:13 PM
#20
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SIXTH DILEMMA: We finally got the s/c to line up and Ed drops a manifold bolt under the s/c and into the inaccessible engine valley. We couldn’t find it so had to lift the heavy s/c off the block just to find it. We found the bolt and reseated the s/c but this time I overstretched and injured my left arm. It really hurt. 
Trying to move the s/c around took major effort. We re-threaded the manifold bolts by hand tightening them. Again, Ed drops another bolt under the s/c. Tail between his legs he leaves to his house to get a magnet. I just continue tightening the s/c down to spec, minus the dropped bolt.
MY ADVICE: An engine hoist would be the absolute best way to mount the s/c and it is not overkill to use one. But getting three people to mount it (or two weight lifters on steroids) is fine. Also, be real careful not to drop anything under the s/c.
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Trying to move the s/c around took major effort. We re-threaded the manifold bolts by hand tightening them. Again, Ed drops another bolt under the s/c. Tail between his legs he leaves to his house to get a magnet. I just continue tightening the s/c down to spec, minus the dropped bolt.
MY ADVICE: An engine hoist would be the absolute best way to mount the s/c and it is not overkill to use one. But getting three people to mount it (or two weight lifters on steroids) is fine. Also, be real careful not to drop anything under the s/c.
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