DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
07-27-2008, 07:14 PM
#21
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SEVENTH DILEMMA: Getting passenger side rear s/c intake bolt, under the boost actuator, to seat and thread was nearly impossible. The location of the bolt is right under the boost actuator where I removed the hex stop bolt during the prior step. There is no room to get an ordinary socket or wrench on there.
We tried using a socket extension + 10mm socket + universal elbow = couldn’t access it and we dropped the socket somewhere in the engine never to be found again!?!
We tried to get a regular 10mm wrench on it and dropped the wrench under the s/c. (Ed fished for 45 minutes with the magnet and finally found the dropped intake bolt, 10mm socket, and 10mm wrench.)
We tried a 10mm box end wrench, no luck. I tried to fabricate by hammering an allan wrench into a 10mm socket. Didn’t work.
I decided toLEAVE IT FOR ANOTHER DAY. The next day Ed came by and had borrowed from his buddy a 10mm shallow wobbly socket. Worked like a charm.
MY ADVICE: get the right tools for the job, which in this case is a 10mm shallow wobbly socket!!!! (Also, a good pair of hose clamp pliers, the 220v compressor, impact gun, 13mm box end wrench, etc…are a must.)
The picture shows the shiny bolt tightened down under the boost actuator, stop bolt not reinstalled yet.
We tried using a socket extension + 10mm socket + universal elbow = couldn’t access it and we dropped the socket somewhere in the engine never to be found again!?!
We tried to get a regular 10mm wrench on it and dropped the wrench under the s/c. (Ed fished for 45 minutes with the magnet and finally found the dropped intake bolt, 10mm socket, and 10mm wrench.)
We tried a 10mm box end wrench, no luck. I tried to fabricate by hammering an allan wrench into a 10mm socket. Didn’t work.
I decided toLEAVE IT FOR ANOTHER DAY. The next day Ed came by and had borrowed from his buddy a 10mm shallow wobbly socket. Worked like a charm.
MY ADVICE: get the right tools for the job, which in this case is a 10mm shallow wobbly socket!!!! (Also, a good pair of hose clamp pliers, the 220v compressor, impact gun, 13mm box end wrench, etc…are a must.)
The picture shows the shiny bolt tightened down under the boost actuator, stop bolt not reinstalled yet.
07-27-2008, 07:15 PM
#22
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
INLET AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR: Ed soldered and crimped the two wires that run from the inlet air temperature sensor (“IAT”) to the correlating wires of the MAF sensor harness to get reliable airflow readings. Because s197 Mustangs use an IAT built in to the MAF, the wires must be removed from the MAF and soldered to the Saleen IAT sensor (really a Lightning IAT). The IAT sensor comes pre-installed on the front driver’s side of the blower. The sensor is placed after the blower and intercooler to convey accurate temperature readings to the PCM so that the appropriate amount of timing is removed based on how hot the blower is.
This IMO is superior to the MAFia Diablo set up which “estimates” its inlet air temp based on its default positioning. Also, the IAT harness wire includes a sensor connector for use with Saleen gauges. I’m not running gauges so hung the connector out of the way.
EIGHTH DILEMMA: To fit the fuel rails on after the s/c is mounted, they must be routed through the s/c intake runners (thin opening in upper portion of s/c, seen from side view). As the directions state, I rotated one of the fuel rails 90 degrees to fit thru the opening.
Before this, I taped up the fuel rails to protect my paint work. However, it was so tight fitting the rail under the s/c opening I significantly scratched and chipped off paint despite taping them down. In hindsight, I should have unplugged the ¼” fuel line hose that connects both fuel rails in the middle but wasn’t sure if it would be too much of a PITA getting the line back on. So what ever.
MY ADVICE: don’t do what I did. I ended up respraying the rails while they were mounted. (See pics.) Upon a close review, my paint work pretty much came out like ****, but 5-10 feet away it looks better than being unpainted IMO.
This IMO is superior to the MAFia Diablo set up which “estimates” its inlet air temp based on its default positioning. Also, the IAT harness wire includes a sensor connector for use with Saleen gauges. I’m not running gauges so hung the connector out of the way.
EIGHTH DILEMMA: To fit the fuel rails on after the s/c is mounted, they must be routed through the s/c intake runners (thin opening in upper portion of s/c, seen from side view). As the directions state, I rotated one of the fuel rails 90 degrees to fit thru the opening.
Before this, I taped up the fuel rails to protect my paint work. However, it was so tight fitting the rail under the s/c opening I significantly scratched and chipped off paint despite taping them down. In hindsight, I should have unplugged the ¼” fuel line hose that connects both fuel rails in the middle but wasn’t sure if it would be too much of a PITA getting the line back on. So what ever.
MY ADVICE: don’t do what I did. I ended up respraying the rails while they were mounted. (See pics.) Upon a close review, my paint work pretty much came out like ****, but 5-10 feet away it looks better than being unpainted IMO.
07-27-2008, 07:16 PM
#23
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
39# INJECTORS: greased upper/lower o-rings, fit ‘em onto rails, and FIRMLY pressed into injector wells. Re-attached fuel injector harness and mounting hardware.
VACUUM LINES: The Saleen vacuum line instructions ARE wrong, or at least inefficient. The correct routing is as follows: place tee fitting on end of vacuum hose routing from boost actuator. Short length hose goes from bottom of tee to small nipple sticking out of driver side of s/c. The only remaining portion of the tee is fitted to the long hose running into the vacuum nipple of the fuel pressure sensor. The brake booster line runs solely to the large tube nipple on the rear driver side of s/c.
OIL SEPARATOR: Installed CAI (Steeda) and mounted Moroso oil separator to CAI heat shield. The oil separator was installed to reduce oil vapors passing through the PCV line which will inevitably muddy the s/c manifold with oil residue that arguably diminishes the life of the unit. Drilled two holes into heat shield to mount clasp and tightened oil separator in the clasp.
Oil Separator hose routing replaces the PCV line that goes from the driver side valve cover tube fitting to driver side front intake manifold tube fitting. The oil separator hose routing = from tube fitting on front driver side valve cover to upper tube fitting of oil separator; the lower fitting of the oil separator routes to tube sticking out of driver side of s/c.
I measured the steel braided hose lines and took out my ax/hatchet to cut the steel braided hose to size. One swift blow did the job, cutting through 99% of the hose. I trimmed the steel braiding left over from the ax strike and applied tape to the circumference of the hose ends. I mounted the hose to the -AN fittings of the oil separator.
VACUUM LINES: The Saleen vacuum line instructions ARE wrong, or at least inefficient. The correct routing is as follows: place tee fitting on end of vacuum hose routing from boost actuator. Short length hose goes from bottom of tee to small nipple sticking out of driver side of s/c. The only remaining portion of the tee is fitted to the long hose running into the vacuum nipple of the fuel pressure sensor. The brake booster line runs solely to the large tube nipple on the rear driver side of s/c.
OIL SEPARATOR: Installed CAI (Steeda) and mounted Moroso oil separator to CAI heat shield. The oil separator was installed to reduce oil vapors passing through the PCV line which will inevitably muddy the s/c manifold with oil residue that arguably diminishes the life of the unit. Drilled two holes into heat shield to mount clasp and tightened oil separator in the clasp.
Oil Separator hose routing replaces the PCV line that goes from the driver side valve cover tube fitting to driver side front intake manifold tube fitting. The oil separator hose routing = from tube fitting on front driver side valve cover to upper tube fitting of oil separator; the lower fitting of the oil separator routes to tube sticking out of driver side of s/c.
I measured the steel braided hose lines and took out my ax/hatchet to cut the steel braided hose to size. One swift blow did the job, cutting through 99% of the hose. I trimmed the steel braiding left over from the ax strike and applied tape to the circumference of the hose ends. I mounted the hose to the -AN fittings of the oil separator.
07-27-2008, 07:17 PM
#24
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
At this point, my engine compartment looked like it was really coming together. The painted parts looked good, the s/c looked good, the CAI and Moroso separator looked tight and brought out the looks in my shorty headers. It was very exciting, but I was very tired, my back was EXTREMELY sore, and my legs hurt like a SOB.
SATURDAY: I woke up around 9:30am to Ed’s phone call. He came by 20 minutes later and we got started. I was definitely groggy, sore and tired. But I am obsessive and wanted to press forward full throttle!
BELT ROUTING & IDLERS: hand screwed idler bosses using dabs of red loctite. Mounted idler pulleys and routed belt. The belt routing didn’t make any sense at first, BUT we realized that you have to slide the belt behind the tensioner arm to route it correctly. Ed used a breaker bar to relieve the tensioner pressure while I seated the belt. Easy money.
Re-attached all engine bay harnesses previously marked with identifying blue tape. (MAF, ETC, FPR, TPS, etc…)
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM: Mounted Saleen supplied intercooler tank to factory brackets on passenger strut tower. Mounted heat exchanger using stock front bumper bolts (on back of bumper support.) Mounted water pump on passenger side (it sits a bit low, so you better not run over any curbs!). Routed Saleen supplied hoses from intercooler overflow tank to intercooler, from heat exchanger to s/c, water pump to radiator, etc… This was so easy, “even a caveman can do it.”
SATURDAY: I woke up around 9:30am to Ed’s phone call. He came by 20 minutes later and we got started. I was definitely groggy, sore and tired. But I am obsessive and wanted to press forward full throttle!
BELT ROUTING & IDLERS: hand screwed idler bosses using dabs of red loctite. Mounted idler pulleys and routed belt. The belt routing didn’t make any sense at first, BUT we realized that you have to slide the belt behind the tensioner arm to route it correctly. Ed used a breaker bar to relieve the tensioner pressure while I seated the belt. Easy money.
Re-attached all engine bay harnesses previously marked with identifying blue tape. (MAF, ETC, FPR, TPS, etc…)
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM: Mounted Saleen supplied intercooler tank to factory brackets on passenger strut tower. Mounted heat exchanger using stock front bumper bolts (on back of bumper support.) Mounted water pump on passenger side (it sits a bit low, so you better not run over any curbs!). Routed Saleen supplied hoses from intercooler overflow tank to intercooler, from heat exchanger to s/c, water pump to radiator, etc… This was so easy, “even a caveman can do it.”
07-27-2008, 07:18 PM
#25
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
NINTH DILEMMA: Installed radiator to coolant crossover hose. Then instructions stated to re-use the hose that runs from driver side crossover to top of thermostat housing. Oooops! Because the directions didn’t state it earlier, I didn’t think I would need to reuse this hose so when taking it off in the first place. Because it was a PITA to get off, I cut the end of the hose = defective.
Obviously, I called ford parts and ordered another one to be picked up at the same time as I pick up my broken valve cover bolt replacement. Because I damaged the hose, I could not refill my system with coolant until the new hose arrived.
MY ADVICE: just because the directions don’t say, “place to side for re-use later,” it doesn’t mean you won’t re-use it. So try to keep all OEM parts in good shape.
TENTH DILEMMA: Steps 124-127 of the Saleen instruction manual refer you to the water pump timer module. However, my unit didn’t come with any timer. I was pissed off and thought I would be delayed because the kit was incomplete. I got online and sought help from some MF’rs. After freaking out that it wasn't with my kit, and after calling Saleen, Brenspeed, UGM, and posting on MF, I found that the pump timer is no longer included in the kit.
MY ADVICE: Ignore Steps 124-127 and call Saleen and complain about their outdated instructions!
WATER PUMP WIRING: The s/c kit contained a long black coil conduit with wire inside. One end was had a fuse (“fuse end”) and the other had a 2 pin harness connector (“harness end”). Harness end plugs to bottom of water pump. Fuse end routes through front bumper, under fuse box, under battery tray, through inner fender lining, into firewall grommet and ultimately to passenger foot panel where relay module connector is (SJB box). Routing was easy, zip tie along the way. Inside car, first pull up on passenger side rocker (floor) panel using panel puller (two pronged fork) and VERY FIRMLY lifted it up popping the panel up. Then you pull up & inward the passenger foot panel until it pops out of place. To get these off you have to be firm. Don’t yank ‘em, but be firm.
ELEVENTH DILEMMA: Once I had access to the passenger foot well, I pulled the release lever on the SJB box which popped it out. The directions then state to squeeze and pull apart the popped out portion of the SJB box. This was nearly impossible. How in the hell is this done! I squeezed it with my hands, used pliers, used thin screwdrivers, but could not get it apart. I just saved this for the last day.[/align]
Obviously, I called ford parts and ordered another one to be picked up at the same time as I pick up my broken valve cover bolt replacement. Because I damaged the hose, I could not refill my system with coolant until the new hose arrived.
MY ADVICE: just because the directions don’t say, “place to side for re-use later,” it doesn’t mean you won’t re-use it. So try to keep all OEM parts in good shape.
TENTH DILEMMA: Steps 124-127 of the Saleen instruction manual refer you to the water pump timer module. However, my unit didn’t come with any timer. I was pissed off and thought I would be delayed because the kit was incomplete. I got online and sought help from some MF’rs. After freaking out that it wasn't with my kit, and after calling Saleen, Brenspeed, UGM, and posting on MF, I found that the pump timer is no longer included in the kit.
MY ADVICE: Ignore Steps 124-127 and call Saleen and complain about their outdated instructions!
WATER PUMP WIRING: The s/c kit contained a long black coil conduit with wire inside. One end was had a fuse (“fuse end”) and the other had a 2 pin harness connector (“harness end”). Harness end plugs to bottom of water pump. Fuse end routes through front bumper, under fuse box, under battery tray, through inner fender lining, into firewall grommet and ultimately to passenger foot panel where relay module connector is (SJB box). Routing was easy, zip tie along the way. Inside car, first pull up on passenger side rocker (floor) panel using panel puller (two pronged fork) and VERY FIRMLY lifted it up popping the panel up. Then you pull up & inward the passenger foot panel until it pops out of place. To get these off you have to be firm. Don’t yank ‘em, but be firm.
ELEVENTH DILEMMA: Once I had access to the passenger foot well, I pulled the release lever on the SJB box which popped it out. The directions then state to squeeze and pull apart the popped out portion of the SJB box. This was nearly impossible. How in the hell is this done! I squeezed it with my hands, used pliers, used thin screwdrivers, but could not get it apart. I just saved this for the last day.[/align]
07-27-2008, 07:20 PM
#26
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
FRONT SUSPENSION RATTLE TSB: To cure front end clunking sound, replaced upper strut mounts by unbolting and removing front strut/shock assembly. Unbolted brakes, removed struts, rented spring compressor, compressed springs, removed upper strut mount and replaced with new mounts = Easy. I also had to tighten down the upper nut on the front sway bar endlink.
VIDEO: FRONT SUSPENSION WORK http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...ngBuild105.flv
VIDEO: FRONT SUSPENSION WORK http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...ngBuild105.flv
07-27-2008, 07:24 PM
#27
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SWAY BAR END LINK ISSUE: before this whole install trip, I had previously tried to tighten my sway bar endlinks, but really failed. The endlink nut is 18mm, and you can torque it all day but the bolt rotates in a jacket. So you think you are tightening it but you really aren’t.
It was only after very close inspection that I realized you have to hold the nose of the end link bolt with an 8mm ratchet and simultaneously torque the end link nut with an 18mm box end wrench.
The endlinks were finally tight, which begs the question: if only I had realized how to properly tighten the endlink, was it really necessary to purchase the upper strut mounts + hardware and install them as well? I believe it was only the loose endlink (not the strut mounts) that was causing the rattle noise! Whatever! We’ll never know!
CALIPER PAINT WORK: Because of TSB fix, I had the wheels off. Although not originally in my plans, I purchased some red Duplicolor caliper paint, sanded/scuffed the calipers, cleaned them with turpentine, covered everything and sprayed 3-4 coats of paint. It came out super nice! Love this mod!!! Cheap but great appearance.
It was only after very close inspection that I realized you have to hold the nose of the end link bolt with an 8mm ratchet and simultaneously torque the end link nut with an 18mm box end wrench.
The endlinks were finally tight, which begs the question: if only I had realized how to properly tighten the endlink, was it really necessary to purchase the upper strut mounts + hardware and install them as well? I believe it was only the loose endlink (not the strut mounts) that was causing the rattle noise! Whatever! We’ll never know!
CALIPER PAINT WORK: Because of TSB fix, I had the wheels off. Although not originally in my plans, I purchased some red Duplicolor caliper paint, sanded/scuffed the calipers, cleaned them with turpentine, covered everything and sprayed 3-4 coats of paint. It came out super nice! Love this mod!!! Cheap but great appearance.
07-27-2008, 07:24 PM
#28
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SUNDAY: I woke up around 10am and knew I could only get a half day in as I was scheduled to leave to San Diego and then to Dallas on a 5 day business trip. Ed and Tom took the day off.
KENNE BELL BAP: Near the FPDM in the trunk, I drilled three holes and mounted KB unit. Crimped and soldered ring terminal on short blk wire to ground. Cut and stripped white wire on fuel pump module harness and connected/crimped/ soldered the two red wires from the KB unit to the harness. I mounted the boost **** and routed blk wire with gold plug on it just as Tacobill did and cut and wired together the long blk wire coil that contained two wires in it (one blk one red). I wasn’t sure what to do with this but One Eyed ***** cleared it up:
One Eyed *****: “I hooked [the KB BAP] up to a 12 volt source and metered the output. 12v with no vacuum and **** unplugged. 17+v with **** turned up and vacuum wires spliced together. If vacuum wires are then separated it has a slow drop back down to 12v. 17+v with **** wire cut and spliced together and vacuum switch wires spliced together. Before I installed mine I was curious if the vacuum and **** needed to be hooked up. They don’t, if you splice the 2 vacuum wires together and the 2 **** wires together, it maxes out with out needing to run the wires. I would never have a reason to adjust the **** and even KB says the vacuum switch is optional.”
TWELTH DILEMMA: I closed my hood and could see that it was slightly misaligned. Hood liner was getting in way so I popped out xmas trees with panel puller and removed. Hood fixed.
I took off the rear wheels and painted the rear brake calipers. Reinstalled front fascia, battery, fan shroud, etc…then had to leave for my 5 day business trip to San Diego and Dallas.
KENNE BELL BAP: Near the FPDM in the trunk, I drilled three holes and mounted KB unit. Crimped and soldered ring terminal on short blk wire to ground. Cut and stripped white wire on fuel pump module harness and connected/crimped/ soldered the two red wires from the KB unit to the harness. I mounted the boost **** and routed blk wire with gold plug on it just as Tacobill did and cut and wired together the long blk wire coil that contained two wires in it (one blk one red). I wasn’t sure what to do with this but One Eyed ***** cleared it up:
One Eyed *****: “I hooked [the KB BAP] up to a 12 volt source and metered the output. 12v with no vacuum and **** unplugged. 17+v with **** turned up and vacuum wires spliced together. If vacuum wires are then separated it has a slow drop back down to 12v. 17+v with **** wire cut and spliced together and vacuum switch wires spliced together. Before I installed mine I was curious if the vacuum and **** needed to be hooked up. They don’t, if you splice the 2 vacuum wires together and the 2 **** wires together, it maxes out with out needing to run the wires. I would never have a reason to adjust the **** and even KB says the vacuum switch is optional.”
TWELTH DILEMMA: I closed my hood and could see that it was slightly misaligned. Hood liner was getting in way so I popped out xmas trees with panel puller and removed. Hood fixed.
I took off the rear wheels and painted the rear brake calipers. Reinstalled front fascia, battery, fan shroud, etc…then had to leave for my 5 day business trip to San Diego and Dallas.
07-27-2008, 07:27 PM
#29
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
THURSDAY: I came home from a 5 day business trip and finished up the car.
SJB BOX: I was determined to complete the water pump fuse end wiring to the SJB box, or break it trying! I used pliers again but squeezed the hell out of the unit and popped it off breaking one of its braces. I located the pin connection location containing the two red with yellow stripes (NOT the location containing only one red wire w/ ylw stripe), took one of the two wires 6” back from SJB box, cut & stripped it, and soldered the water pump wire into it making a T. I heat shrinked it and taped it, reinserted the connector, and remounted the foot panel.
REPLACE: Replaced broken valve bolt and defective pipe. Filled engine radiator (50/50 + bottle of Water Wetter). Used thread sealant on NPT plugs and screwed ‘em into top of coolant crossover. Filled intercooler system 80/20. I did not use a pressure pump which is recommended to burp the system.
TUNE DOWLOADED: easy.
Performed final inspection and,
FIRED UP ENGINE: Everything was kosher as it fired right up. I looked for leaks and made sure the belt was seated properly. Car sounded great and there were no issues.
VIDEO: ENGINE SOUND CLIP
http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...oundVideo2.flv
SJB BOX: I was determined to complete the water pump fuse end wiring to the SJB box, or break it trying! I used pliers again but squeezed the hell out of the unit and popped it off breaking one of its braces. I located the pin connection location containing the two red with yellow stripes (NOT the location containing only one red wire w/ ylw stripe), took one of the two wires 6” back from SJB box, cut & stripped it, and soldered the water pump wire into it making a T. I heat shrinked it and taped it, reinserted the connector, and remounted the foot panel.
REPLACE: Replaced broken valve bolt and defective pipe. Filled engine radiator (50/50 + bottle of Water Wetter). Used thread sealant on NPT plugs and screwed ‘em into top of coolant crossover. Filled intercooler system 80/20. I did not use a pressure pump which is recommended to burp the system.
TUNE DOWLOADED: easy.
Performed final inspection and,
FIRED UP ENGINE: Everything was kosher as it fired right up. I looked for leaks and made sure the belt was seated properly. Car sounded great and there were no issues.
VIDEO: ENGINE SOUND CLIP
http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...oundVideo2.flv
07-27-2008, 07:27 PM
#30
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
TEST DRIVE 1: I test drove it and the power level was significantly increased. In the middle of the test drive I pulled over and topped off my coolant. The Saleen whine is audible but not overpowering which I like. Definitely woke up the muscle in the car.
I took it out to a “private” freeway (owned by Donald Trump, in case the police are reading this) and did pulls in 3rd, 4th, & 5th gear up to 6k rpm – 60 mph to 120mph lickedy-split! I also hit a side road and did 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to 6k rpm. When entering the on ramp at 20mph, I WOT’d the straight away and hit 90mph in 3rd immediately.
I basically drove it like I would normally drive it – not beating/abusing it, but definitely taking advantage of its powerband. I would have taken it easier on the car if it didn’t feel so damn solid. It really feels factory but with major power.
No check engine lights, no hiccups, just smooth sailing. In 1st and 2nd, the car just goes and wants to break the rear loose. With my 4.10’s, the car rockets forward. I really had to pay attention in the lower gears because it drove like a different car – a car that demands respect from its driver. The power is almost unusable on the street.Also, 4.10's might be bit tall for this power, likely going toneed a race clutch to keep up.
You can definitely say that it is so powerful that you could wrap it around a pole if you don’t respect it. Must definitely BEWARE in rain!!!! It is beastly power, and it should be for the price you pay. The car ran PERFECTLY! I couldn’t have hoped for a better test drive. To really take advantage of the power and my suspension mods I have to track it auto-x style. On a side note, the painted calipers look BADASS.
TEST DRIVE 2: Took my wife, and my boy and his lady out on a 70 mile round trip to Santa Row in San Jose, CA (Gucci shops, Club/Restaurants, Bentley, Ferrari, Mustang, Aston Martin, and an old school 50’s T-bird were represented – 87 degrees out, people everywhere.) I drove hwy 280 which is a well-graded interstate and the car ran like a dream. Power everywhere, but the mpg is definitely hurting. Of course, I’m driving it like I stole it!
Again, no check engine lights, no hiccups, just smooth sailing. Zero issues!
VIDEO: WOT BEFORE S/C
http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...ngBuild113.flv
VIDEO: WOT AFTER S/C
http://shonribera.com/JRide.htm (click on video pic to start)
I took it out to a “private” freeway (owned by Donald Trump, in case the police are reading this) and did pulls in 3rd, 4th, & 5th gear up to 6k rpm – 60 mph to 120mph lickedy-split! I also hit a side road and did 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to 6k rpm. When entering the on ramp at 20mph, I WOT’d the straight away and hit 90mph in 3rd immediately.
I basically drove it like I would normally drive it – not beating/abusing it, but definitely taking advantage of its powerband. I would have taken it easier on the car if it didn’t feel so damn solid. It really feels factory but with major power.
No check engine lights, no hiccups, just smooth sailing. In 1st and 2nd, the car just goes and wants to break the rear loose. With my 4.10’s, the car rockets forward. I really had to pay attention in the lower gears because it drove like a different car – a car that demands respect from its driver. The power is almost unusable on the street.Also, 4.10's might be bit tall for this power, likely going toneed a race clutch to keep up.
You can definitely say that it is so powerful that you could wrap it around a pole if you don’t respect it. Must definitely BEWARE in rain!!!! It is beastly power, and it should be for the price you pay. The car ran PERFECTLY! I couldn’t have hoped for a better test drive. To really take advantage of the power and my suspension mods I have to track it auto-x style. On a side note, the painted calipers look BADASS.
TEST DRIVE 2: Took my wife, and my boy and his lady out on a 70 mile round trip to Santa Row in San Jose, CA (Gucci shops, Club/Restaurants, Bentley, Ferrari, Mustang, Aston Martin, and an old school 50’s T-bird were represented – 87 degrees out, people everywhere.) I drove hwy 280 which is a well-graded interstate and the car ran like a dream. Power everywhere, but the mpg is definitely hurting. Of course, I’m driving it like I stole it!
Again, no check engine lights, no hiccups, just smooth sailing. Zero issues!
VIDEO: WOT BEFORE S/C
http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l...ngBuild113.flv
VIDEO: WOT AFTER S/C
http://shonribera.com/JRide.htm (click on video pic to start)