Low Battery -- Can't Get Window to Recalibrate
#1
Low Battery -- Can't Get Window to Recalibrate
After sitting for 3 days my 2006 GT's battery was too low to crank the engine. It sat for 8 days just a month ago with no problem, so don't know why this occurred yesterday.
Anyway, I trickle charged the battery for 10 hr so it shows 12.4 volts across terminals. Car started okay today.
But, when I first opened the drivers side door, the window went down 75% of the way and stopped. When I hit the driver window control to "full up" it goes up, hits the top, then goes back down about 75% of the way and stops. If I hit "down" it will go the rest of the way down. If I raise it slowly I can stop it just short of full up, but go all the way up and it reverses again. So, cannot get it to top and hold for 2 seconds as described on page 44 of the owner's manual. All attempts with the door closed.
Passengers side window still works fine.
Any suggestions on how to get the drivers side window to function normally again? I haven't tried completely disconnecting the battery.
John
Anyway, I trickle charged the battery for 10 hr so it shows 12.4 volts across terminals. Car started okay today.
But, when I first opened the drivers side door, the window went down 75% of the way and stopped. When I hit the driver window control to "full up" it goes up, hits the top, then goes back down about 75% of the way and stops. If I hit "down" it will go the rest of the way down. If I raise it slowly I can stop it just short of full up, but go all the way up and it reverses again. So, cannot get it to top and hold for 2 seconds as described on page 44 of the owner's manual. All attempts with the door closed.
Passengers side window still works fine.
Any suggestions on how to get the drivers side window to function normally again? I haven't tried completely disconnecting the battery.
John
#4
6th Gear Member
First off, are you not aware of the battery issues reported countless times here? A search would have yielded a lot of info; mainly that 1) the Motorcraft battery is crap 2) the S197's with the Shaker systems are notorious for dead batteries since the amp doesn't shut off if you leave the radio on when you shut off the ignition. If the battery took a charge with the trickle charger, then you need to leave it on overnight or longer if you can. The battery will not recharge adequately by driving it unless you're driving for HOURS.
As far as the windows, follow the recalibration procedure in the Owners Manual
As far as the windows, follow the recalibration procedure in the Owners Manual
#5
Nuke,
First off, I am aware of the battery issues. But this is the first time mine as run down in a short period of time.
Second off, I have tried to recalibrate the window according to the manual as I stated in my original post.
I have now trickled charged the battery for over 15 hrs and it reads 12.7 volts after being off the charger overnight, which I think should be fully charged.
Still would like to know if anyone has any other suggestion on recalibrating the window. Would disconnecting the battery for a short period of time possibly make a difference?
Thanks,
John
First off, I am aware of the battery issues. But this is the first time mine as run down in a short period of time.
Second off, I have tried to recalibrate the window according to the manual as I stated in my original post.
I have now trickled charged the battery for over 15 hrs and it reads 12.7 volts after being off the charger overnight, which I think should be fully charged.
Still would like to know if anyone has any other suggestion on recalibrating the window. Would disconnecting the battery for a short period of time possibly make a difference?
Thanks,
John
#8
Try this TSP posted by 157db on the 4.0 Tech forum:
http://francesco.maxdsl.de/documents...B/06-22-18.pdf
I haven't tried it yet because it takes two people. But sounds like it addresses the problem of out of calibration window and bounce-back.
John
http://francesco.maxdsl.de/documents...B/06-22-18.pdf
I haven't tried it yet because it takes two people. But sounds like it addresses the problem of out of calibration window and bounce-back.
John
#9
The TSP procedure worked perfectly. You have to disconnect either the battery or pull the fuse while operating the window. I didn't want to disconnect the battery, so I pulled the fuse first, then just barely reinserted it enough to make contact. Then it was easy to pull during the procedure.
Thanks to 157db!
John
Thanks to 157db!
John