Killed my engine today...
01-05-2010, 05:29 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 297
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...or-4-sale.html
ta da!!! throw this in while you deck out your old one or part out your old one!
"Motor only has 3,900 miles on it, has a set of comp cams NSR cams installed by Brenspeed! Motor runs perfect comes with everything pictured but the exhaust manifolds. This thing is ready to bolt in complete oil pan to valve covers. Ships in factory ford crate! Need to sell $1900 shipped!"
your welcome!
also cross out the 10 in your sig and put "12!". btw 12psi seems really high
ta da!!! throw this in while you deck out your old one or part out your old one!
"Motor only has 3,900 miles on it, has a set of comp cams NSR cams installed by Brenspeed! Motor runs perfect comes with everything pictured but the exhaust manifolds. This thing is ready to bolt in complete oil pan to valve covers. Ships in factory ford crate! Need to sell $1900 shipped!"
your welcome!
also cross out the 10 in your sig and put "12!". btw 12psi seems really high
Last edited by MoneyShot; 01-05-2010 at 05:36 PM.
01-05-2010, 05:52 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 1,474
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...or-4-sale.html
ta da!!! throw this in while you deck out your old one or part out your old one!
"Motor only has 3,900 miles on it, has a set of comp cams NSR cams installed by Brenspeed! Motor runs perfect comes with everything pictured but the exhaust manifolds. This thing is ready to bolt in complete oil pan to valve covers. Ships in factory ford crate! Need to sell $1900 shipped!"
your welcome!
also cross out the 10 in your sig and put "12!". btw 12psi seems really high
ta da!!! throw this in while you deck out your old one or part out your old one!
"Motor only has 3,900 miles on it, has a set of comp cams NSR cams installed by Brenspeed! Motor runs perfect comes with everything pictured but the exhaust manifolds. This thing is ready to bolt in complete oil pan to valve covers. Ships in factory ford crate! Need to sell $1900 shipped!"
your welcome!
also cross out the 10 in your sig and put "12!". btw 12psi seems really high
01-05-2010, 05:57 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 297
01-05-2010, 07:42 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Blue Ridge Mtns, VA
Posts: 524
Threw a rod right out of the side of the block.
2006 Mustang GT with KB 2.4 Blower pushing 12psi
Been running this way about 6 months.
She let go on me while in 5th gear on the freeway at low RPM while accelerating aggressively, but not flooring it.
Some funny noises, rough vibration & oil pressure went to 0.
I knew immediately what it was & I've never seen it happen before.
Threw her in neutral killed the engine & coasted off of the freeway.
Now I have to pick up & rebuild.
What should I go with as far as replacing the block?
Obviously I'll go with forged pistons but when these blow up what other things get taken out in the process?
Do I need to replace the crank & all pistons?
I don't want to just assume I should go with a full forged rotating assembly & would like to speak intelligently to my shop doing the repair work.
I'd like to put down over 500hp reliably from now on but would like to keep the repair costs down.
If you were in my position without unlimited funds (meaning I will have to incur debt), how would you handle it?
Thanks so much for any advise I will consider it carefully. Feel free to ask me questions.
Only other mods I have are 3.73's & LCA's the rest is cosmetic.
2006 Mustang GT with KB 2.4 Blower pushing 12psi
Been running this way about 6 months.
She let go on me while in 5th gear on the freeway at low RPM while accelerating aggressively, but not flooring it.
Some funny noises, rough vibration & oil pressure went to 0.
I knew immediately what it was & I've never seen it happen before.
Threw her in neutral killed the engine & coasted off of the freeway.
Now I have to pick up & rebuild.
What should I go with as far as replacing the block?
Obviously I'll go with forged pistons but when these blow up what other things get taken out in the process?
Do I need to replace the crank & all pistons?
I don't want to just assume I should go with a full forged rotating assembly & would like to speak intelligently to my shop doing the repair work.
I'd like to put down over 500hp reliably from now on but would like to keep the repair costs down.
If you were in my position without unlimited funds (meaning I will have to incur debt), how would you handle it?
Thanks so much for any advise I will consider it carefully. Feel free to ask me questions.
Only other mods I have are 3.73's & LCA's the rest is cosmetic.
01-05-2010, 09:17 PM
#15
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 131
12 PSI boost is too much to run and expect a stock motor to last. You wanna run that much boost and make it last, you need forged internals and of course a good tune to insure you don't get too much timing or AF does not go lean, etc.
01-05-2010, 10:11 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 191
Thank you guys for the options.
Of course I'd love to hear as many ideas as possible. I do believe, in this situation, it's an opportunity to upgrade to make her reliable at the 550-575hp level.
I think it was a faulty tune, but the guy who did the tuning was highly recommended by several people here in Phoenix, so I don't really want to point fingers. Fact is, I should have left it with the canned tune from KB. I just wanted my speedo calibrated & the traction control turned off by default & the tune looked good on the surface. Onlyhave myself to blame in the end.
I was at the 475-480hp level on the dyno. I just had a heck of a time getting her to spin the tires in 2nd without dropping the clutch so I thought there was a problem. The problem I think, to this day is... I live in Phoenix! This heat just kills power.
After the tune, I was not impressed at all with the the result, as we pretty much just swapped out to a smaller pulley.
She certainly felt stronger these past 2 months of cooler weather & could easily break em loose in 2nd like I wanted.
So, this time I am going with forged internals & after a lot of talking with my guy at All Mustang Performance in Phoenix (a guy who has never let me down in the past on a 1990 mustang I used to have) we are discussing porting the heads, stock cams with phase lockouts & he has done these same mods on people in the same situation & says the bottom end can handle 750+ but we are going to aim for 525-550hp. Also included with this quote is an upgraded clutch. As of right now, I am staring down the barrel of a $11,200 bill. But should be damn near bulletproof & a good 50-75hp up from where I was. Sorry this turned a little long-winded.
How's that grab ya?
Thanks again for your time, comments & help.
-Sean
I think it was a faulty tune, but the guy who did the tuning was highly recommended by several people here in Phoenix, so I don't really want to point fingers. Fact is, I should have left it with the canned tune from KB. I just wanted my speedo calibrated & the traction control turned off by default & the tune looked good on the surface. Onlyhave myself to blame in the end.
I was at the 475-480hp level on the dyno. I just had a heck of a time getting her to spin the tires in 2nd without dropping the clutch so I thought there was a problem. The problem I think, to this day is... I live in Phoenix! This heat just kills power.
After the tune, I was not impressed at all with the the result, as we pretty much just swapped out to a smaller pulley.
She certainly felt stronger these past 2 months of cooler weather & could easily break em loose in 2nd like I wanted.
So, this time I am going with forged internals & after a lot of talking with my guy at All Mustang Performance in Phoenix (a guy who has never let me down in the past on a 1990 mustang I used to have) we are discussing porting the heads, stock cams with phase lockouts & he has done these same mods on people in the same situation & says the bottom end can handle 750+ but we are going to aim for 525-550hp. Also included with this quote is an upgraded clutch. As of right now, I am staring down the barrel of a $11,200 bill. But should be damn near bulletproof & a good 50-75hp up from where I was. Sorry this turned a little long-winded.
How's that grab ya?
Thanks again for your time, comments & help.
-Sean
I would agree, sounds like detonation. Trying to accelerate in 5th gear @ low RPM while boosted can do that. Too much load at too high cyl. pressure= boom. Also the heat load on the cyl walls and pistons under those conditions can melt pistons, burn rings, etc. ...please don't ask me how I know!!
12 PSI boost is too much to run and expect a stock motor to last. You wanna run that much boost and make it last, you need forged internals and of course a good tune to insure you don't get too much timing or AF does not go lean, etc.
12 PSI boost is too much to run and expect a stock motor to last. You wanna run that much boost and make it last, you need forged internals and of course a good tune to insure you don't get too much timing or AF does not go lean, etc.
Last edited by MacGyverGTP; 01-05-2010 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
01-05-2010, 11:28 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 566
Holy **** cow! I feel for you dogg, I wish you could throw together a block yourself and drop it in, but theres always other things to consider. Good luck, my man!
01-06-2010, 11:14 AM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 191
This 11+k includes new short block.
On the invoice, it shows as:
M-6009-A463SC 4.6 3V Aluminum Short Block for Supercharged ...$4500.00
M-6049-N3VPA CNC Ported 3V Cylinder Head Assembled ...$998
M-6009-A463SC 4.6 3V Aluminum Short Block for Supercharged ...$4500.00
M-6049-N3VPA CNC Ported 3V Cylinder Head Assembled ...$998
Last edited by MacGyverGTP; 01-06-2010 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Addition of Data
