Nuke

Yeah, I meant naturally/normally aspirated and NOT non-aspirated. That's what happens when you rush...

REDBOSS1

I looked at a bunch of forged internal packages today for 2-3k, does anyone know what ballpark figures are those installations (crankshaft, rods, piston heads)?

If I decide not to go with the blower I would like to get to 400hp at the crank. Money is not a real issue here but I don't want to end up like the dude in the other thread on here with a blown motor after paying the money to get the SC, then having to get another engine. I don't do 140mph but I like to run the car hard threw the first 4 gears at least every other week.

Starfire

Why not just get a SC and stay on the low end with only like 5lbs of boost, I hardly think you'll blow an engine on 5lbs with a proper tune, and you'll still get 400 crank HP if not a bit more, something like the basic saleen SC and if you want to crank it up in the future you can!

Nuke

If 400 RWHP is your goal, then going FI is going to be no more expensive and will be more reliable than all the internal work you'd be doing otherwise. Just because you're FI doesn't mean you're going to beat it often.

07arcticwhiteGT

For ur exhaust question, I have a Pypes O/R X on my 07 GT and I love it. Sounds great. Pypes is a good company and is relatively inexpensive too. And as for the throttlebody, I have a BBK 62MM TB, I noticed a little better performance, but nothing to brag about. Like breathegood said, it would be better to decide what kinda power u are looking to make

breathegood

Professional installation (including tuning) of rods/pistons/crank is going to be on the order of $2500-3500 depending on who you go to.

I've been talking a lot lately with my tuner about my own goals for the car. I asked if it was possible to get to 400whp N/A on pump gas without raising the compression so high that adding any kind of boost later on would be risky. He tells me he would go no higher than 11:1 with a max of 6psi of boost on 91 octane. Stroked to ~300ci at 11:1 N/A, I'm not likely to get to 400whp with the parts that I already have in my sig. Crank yes, wheels no. 12:1 or 12.5:1 would probably put it over, but boost is out of the question. I would very much like to have 400+ to the wheels N/A. This puts me at a crossroads: spend more $$$ and commit to a bulletproof, N/A stroker with fewer ponies and be done, or spend less for F/I now and always be scared that I'm pushing the limit of the stock internals but still have the potential for A LOT more power later.

I had the STS twin turbo kit on the car for a brief time and had it dyno'd at 426whp on a really bad tune, so I at least have an idea of what that kind of HP feels like to drive. While it is exciting, I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I don't drive in such a way to make that kind of HP useful or fun. My car is a daily driver and not likely to see much (if any) track time, so I'm leaning towards the high compression N/A option. IMO, it is better to be pragmatic, think about how you will be using the car long term, and get what you want the first time than it is to save a few bucks for a temporary fix.

BruceH

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yellowjohn1

The C&L intake manifold, which is what I am assuming you are talking about would be a waste of $ if you are looking for a performance gain. Aftermarket intake manifolds don't really help our engines until they are very heavily modified. Don't believe the 30hp claims in the magazines on this one.

breathegood

"Better" is a matter of opinion. I've thought about it. Forced induction isn't for everyone. Until the money is spent, I haven't ruled it out. I have to admitt, vanity plays a certain role in the decision. I would very much like to have 400+ N/A at the wheels for no other reason than cool factor. 400, 450, 500 blown horsepower, big deal. 400 all motor is a little more impressive, IMO.

BruceH

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