Meziere water pump install
03-21-2010, 11:08 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,190
Meziere water pump install
got the electric water pump for the stang, it's supposed to be good for 10-20whp. pretty hilarious since you're just freeing up power that's already there. overall the install is pretty easy, just swap out the old pump for the electric one and wire it up. I ran into a little hassle with finding a switched 12V source for the relay but I found one eventually. also you need a 6mm allen key with the rounded head to tighten the bolts at an angle since the new pump has the pulley attached and you have to work around it.
here's some picts, I'm gonna hide the wiring better when the Kenne Bell gets installed.
get the intake pipe out of the way, stock comes out easy, two clamps and a hose.
new pump with relay kit. I always prefer wiring things with their own relays when possible.
mmmmm, purdy
old setup, loosen the 4 bolts before taking the belt off.
once the bolts are loose take the belt off, then you can take the pulley off completely.
now you can get to the 4 bolts holding the stock pump in the block. as far as draining the coolant I just put a catch under the motor and took the stock pump off. to make it easier to drain I took off the radiator cap. this might be the lazy way but it's easy and you know you're only draining as much as you have to for the swap.
stock mechanical pump
the 6mm ball head allen key, don't bother starting the install without one, luckily my roommate was home and had one at his job not too far away. since the new pump's pulley is already on it's in the way of the bolts. you can get them started by hand, but can't get them tight without this tool.
new pump on and the belt back in place, looks a lot nicer I routed the wires up the passenger side and behind some other wiring and brackets to make sure that it doesn't get into the belt. be very careful with the O-ring. they tell you to grease it a little before trying to put it on. I did that and was real careful to put it on as straight as possible. also tighten the bolts down criss-cross to help make sure it's ok. worst case I think you could use the O-ring from the stock pump if you kill the new one, I don't see why it would be different.
always solder the wires instead of using crimp connectors. crimps can come loose and don't make a great connection anyway. since this is a vital part, it's not something little like a speaker connection, why take the risk of the connection failing. this is the power wire from the relay to the pump.
heat shrink is always better than electrical tape
here's the little bastard that wasted a lot of my time. this fuse is only powered when the key is in the on position. I used one of those fuse adapter tap things to wire it up. before starting the motor you can actually hear it kick in. it's not very loud, you only hear it with the motor off.
another tip, leave the fuse out of the main lead to the pump so you can test the relay. when the relay gets activated you'll hear it click. once you know everything is wired up and working right then you can test the pump itself. you can't run it dry for more than a couple seconds so be careful. once the relay was working right I turned the key on and just inserted the pump's fuse for a second to hear the pump.
I wired the power and ground directly to the battery terminals.
once everything was working I filled the coolant reservoir to the brim since I knew it would suck down a little when I started it. kinda cool, once you add some water you can run the pump without starting the motor and get some of the air out. it also lets you check everything again and make sure the pump is working correctly before starting the car and going for your test drive. it took two gallons of coolant to fill it back to normal.
the blue wire is the lead to the pump and has in line fuse. when I install my Kenne Bell I'll hide it better. for now I left it since I don't know what is staying and what's moving. *** dyno says it's better up top, seems to pull a little harder in the last 1,000rpm. tomorrow I'm getting the car dyno'd. I don't have a bone stock dyno to compare with, didn't feel like spending all the money on a bunch of dyno's. this is going to be my baseline before installing the kenne bell.
here's some picts, I'm gonna hide the wiring better when the Kenne Bell gets installed.
get the intake pipe out of the way, stock comes out easy, two clamps and a hose.
new pump with relay kit. I always prefer wiring things with their own relays when possible.
mmmmm, purdy
old setup, loosen the 4 bolts before taking the belt off.
once the bolts are loose take the belt off, then you can take the pulley off completely.
now you can get to the 4 bolts holding the stock pump in the block. as far as draining the coolant I just put a catch under the motor and took the stock pump off. to make it easier to drain I took off the radiator cap. this might be the lazy way but it's easy and you know you're only draining as much as you have to for the swap.
stock mechanical pump
the 6mm ball head allen key, don't bother starting the install without one, luckily my roommate was home and had one at his job not too far away. since the new pump's pulley is already on it's in the way of the bolts. you can get them started by hand, but can't get them tight without this tool.
new pump on and the belt back in place, looks a lot nicer
I routed the wires up the passenger side and behind some other wiring and brackets to make sure that it doesn't get into the belt. be very careful with the O-ring. they tell you to grease it a little before trying to put it on. I did that and was real careful to put it on as straight as possible. also tighten the bolts down criss-cross to help make sure it's ok. worst case I think you could use the O-ring from the stock pump if you kill the new one, I don't see why it would be different.always solder the wires instead of using crimp connectors. crimps can come loose and don't make a great connection anyway. since this is a vital part, it's not something little like a speaker connection, why take the risk of the connection failing. this is the power wire from the relay to the pump.
heat shrink is always better than electrical tape
here's the little bastard that wasted a lot of my time. this fuse is only powered when the key is in the on position. I used one of those fuse adapter tap things to wire it up. before starting the motor you can actually hear it kick in. it's not very loud, you only hear it with the motor off.
another tip, leave the fuse out of the main lead to the pump so you can test the relay. when the relay gets activated you'll hear it click. once you know everything is wired up and working right then you can test the pump itself. you can't run it dry for more than a couple seconds so be careful. once the relay was working right I turned the key on and just inserted the pump's fuse for a second to hear the pump.
I wired the power and ground directly to the battery terminals.
once everything was working I filled the coolant reservoir to the brim since I knew it would suck down a little when I started it. kinda cool, once you add some water you can run the pump without starting the motor and get some of the air out. it also lets you check everything again and make sure the pump is working correctly before starting the car and going for your test drive. it took two gallons of coolant to fill it back to normal.
the blue wire is the lead to the pump and has in line fuse. when I install my Kenne Bell I'll hide it better. for now I left it since I don't know what is staying and what's moving. *** dyno says it's better up top, seems to pull a little harder in the last 1,000rpm. tomorrow I'm getting the car dyno'd. I don't have a bone stock dyno to compare with, didn't feel like spending all the money on a bunch of dyno's. this is going to be my baseline before installing the kenne bell.
03-22-2010, 12:02 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Superb! I've been thinking about this mod also but it's time will come. I, too, laugh at the 10-20 RWHP claim. My best guess would be about 5 RWHP; probably similiar to UDP's.
03-22-2010, 02:29 PM
#6
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,190
UDP's? man I got a lot of acronyms to learn 
well I dyno'd the car today and got 288whp and 304 torque. since my only mods are the water pump and axle back, no intake or tune or anything, I'm pretty happy. up top the power is pretty flat, doesn't drop off or anything, that's where I think the water pump helped the most.
well I dyno'd the car today and got 288whp and 304 torque. since my only mods are the water pump and axle back, no intake or tune or anything, I'm pretty happy. up top the power is pretty flat, doesn't drop off or anything, that's where I think the water pump helped the most.
03-22-2010, 03:01 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,190
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