moosestang

I wasn't sure what it would do either. I got lazy and only pulled the rear o2 sensor. you can see the back of the catalyst through the hole and they looked fine from the back. They actually looked to clean and so did the tips of the rear o2 sensors.

I was looking at just replacing the front 02's until I realized they are almost $50 each! Jesus!

My LTFT used to read closer to zero at cruise and idle was lower, I think. Some of the jump might be the colder weather, but +15 at part throttle seems high, it could have always been that high though, i'm really not sure.

Riptide

I've read that +/- 10% is about the max you want to see on a regular basis.

moosestang

I can tell you for certain that my limit slip differential is still working. I have to drive up on 2x8's on all 4 wheels so I can get the front up on the ramps. Well there was a lot of sand on my cement driveway and when I went to drive up on the ramps the rear tires shot both those 2x8's clear down my driveway and the rear end fell 2 inchs instantly! That was nutz!

BruceH

How many miles on your plugs?

moosestang

I just changed these plugs when the accel COP's died. Couldn't be more than 3,000 miles.

If I unplug the front O2's, will the computer use the rear o2's in there place? I know it will throw a code, but I'm not worried about that.

moosestang

Does anyone know if the car will run with the MAF disconnected? I saw it mentioned in a 5.0 forum as a way to eliminate the maf as a cause. If it runs smoother, then the maf is causing it.

Simon1

It should start and idle based on what the computer "beleives" it is recieving in air input.

Usually our MAFs will either completly die or function 100%. If your tune is off, I would guess weather (most likely).