What type of engine oil do you use?
06-19-2011, 05:48 AM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: saskatchewan
Posts: 354
Amsoil 0w-30. After all the info unleashed beast has taught me I will use nothing but ever again. Thanks beast. And you guys crying about the price become a preferred customer and buy it wholesale. It ends up being half of shelf price and you can buy it in the 5 gallon pails
06-19-2011, 12:27 PM
#22
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 276
5w20 or 5w30 would be fine for any normal daily driver use. If you plan on using the car on open track or auto cross which could potentially get the oil hot enough to thin to much you would want to run 5w30 or higher high number for what ever it takes to keep the oil pressure where it should be, around 10PSI for every 1000RPM.
The 0wXX oils tend to cost quite a bit more is why I run 5wXX oils. But if price is not an issue by all means run a 0wXX oil. The lower number can never be to low. During cold start even with 0wXX the oil is still far thicker the when up to temperature, around 212°F, and performing at it's specified upper number. The thinner oil at cold start will flow much faster to the more remote areas of the engine which in the 4.6 is the valve train. The oil has to follow a pretty long route just to get there from the oil pump in the 4.6 so the thinner the better when the engine is cold.
A note about Synthetic VS Dino oil: One of the main differences, but certainly not the only differance, between synthetic and dino oil is that synthetic oils stocks start with the higher number and the additive package brings it down to perform at the lower number when the engine is cold. Dino oils start with the lower number and the additive package bring the oil to the upper number when at operating temperature, around 212°F for the oil. The obvious advantage here is as the additive package dissipates over time you are left with the higher operating temperature number with synthetics and exactly the opposite with dino oil which inherently degrade much faster than synthetics. There are other advantages to synthetics but I feel this is one of the most important to understand especially for those that run there oil for extended periods of time between changes.
A personally run Amsoil 100% synthetic oil.
For even more protection I would also run:
Motorcraft - FL-820-S or Amsoil - EaO11 Oil Filter (They are both about as good as it gets).
FilterMAG - HP-365 Magnetic Oil Filter System.
The 0wXX oils tend to cost quite a bit more is why I run 5wXX oils. But if price is not an issue by all means run a 0wXX oil. The lower number can never be to low. During cold start even with 0wXX the oil is still far thicker the when up to temperature, around 212°F, and performing at it's specified upper number. The thinner oil at cold start will flow much faster to the more remote areas of the engine which in the 4.6 is the valve train. The oil has to follow a pretty long route just to get there from the oil pump in the 4.6 so the thinner the better when the engine is cold.
A note about Synthetic VS Dino oil: One of the main differences, but certainly not the only differance, between synthetic and dino oil is that synthetic oils stocks start with the higher number and the additive package brings it down to perform at the lower number when the engine is cold. Dino oils start with the lower number and the additive package bring the oil to the upper number when at operating temperature, around 212°F for the oil. The obvious advantage here is as the additive package dissipates over time you are left with the higher operating temperature number with synthetics and exactly the opposite with dino oil which inherently degrade much faster than synthetics. There are other advantages to synthetics but I feel this is one of the most important to understand especially for those that run there oil for extended periods of time between changes.
A personally run Amsoil 100% synthetic oil.
For even more protection I would also run:
Motorcraft - FL-820-S or Amsoil - EaO11 Oil Filter (They are both about as good as it gets).
FilterMAG - HP-365 Magnetic Oil Filter System.
Last edited by Nice Pony; 06-19-2011 at 12:40 PM.
06-20-2011, 01:58 AM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: VA
Posts: 168
I run MobileOne full synth 5w-20, though the 2 times I had Ford change it while it was in for some other stuff, they put in 5w-30. So I've been doing 5w-30 in summer and 5w-20 in the winter these past 2 years.
06-20-2011, 02:50 PM
#24
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960
Actually, Ford designed the Coyote for much wider range than only 5w20 because the engine must accept the different oil weights that are SAE accepted for gasoline engines. This I believe is a USDOT regulation. Ford only says to use 5w20 because of CAFE requirements. But using 5w30 or 0w40 or any other oil weight that is acceptable for gasoline engines is ok. If I remember correctly, I think the Ford engineers who designed the 12 Boss 302 engine recommends 5w50? Or was it 0w50?
But all I am trying to say is TiVCT is designed to operate with even different oil weights so long as the weight is within SAE weights for gasoline engines.
But all I am trying to say is TiVCT is designed to operate with even different oil weights so long as the weight is within SAE weights for gasoline engines.
The boss engine literally runs slightly higher pressure than the GT's because the Boss lacks the piston cooling oil squirters. Less holes to squirt out of = less pressure loss.
06-20-2011, 03:33 PM
#25
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Thicker oil would require higher pressures to circulate properly so I could see how a Boss could get away with a w50.
I personally don't see the benefit in running it on a standard GT so I won't.
Not to mention, if you do a lot of short trips as a DD and the engine does not cool down to ambient temps, the thicker oil will take longer to get to the top of the engine. Engine startup accounts for a good majority of Engine wear these days.
I personally don't see the benefit in running it on a standard GT so I won't.
Not to mention, if you do a lot of short trips as a DD and the engine does not cool down to ambient temps, the thicker oil will take longer to get to the top of the engine. Engine startup accounts for a good majority of Engine wear these days.
06-20-2011, 06:36 PM
#26
Yeah, you don't have to put it in a non-Boss engine. The vast majority of us can use ##w20 or ##w30 or ##w40 with absolutely no problems at all because we do not put our cars through racing conditions on the public roads (which of course is illegal to begin with).
I also remember reading how TiVCT works in the Coyote and Boss engine (codenamed "Roadrunner"):
The oil pressure is to lock and unlock the cam phasers if I remember correctly. The cams are rotated in advance or in retard by the valve springs placing a moment (torque) on the camshaft. So by unlocking the phasers at the right instant, you get a net moment that is positive and thus advances the cam angle, or if you unlock the phasers at a different time, you get a net moment that is negative and thus retard the cam angle.
All this is computer controlled by the cam phasing tuning tables given engine RPM, which I know the Ford engineers have calculated precisely the valvespring forces vs RPM such that the phasers open and close at the right instant.
I also remember reading how TiVCT works in the Coyote and Boss engine (codenamed "Roadrunner"):
The oil pressure is to lock and unlock the cam phasers if I remember correctly. The cams are rotated in advance or in retard by the valve springs placing a moment (torque) on the camshaft. So by unlocking the phasers at the right instant, you get a net moment that is positive and thus advances the cam angle, or if you unlock the phasers at a different time, you get a net moment that is negative and thus retard the cam angle.
All this is computer controlled by the cam phasing tuning tables given engine RPM, which I know the Ford engineers have calculated precisely the valvespring forces vs RPM such that the phasers open and close at the right instant.
06-21-2011, 11:26 AM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 276
Ford recommends 5W50 in the Boss. Which has the same VCT system as GT's. So oil pressure variances will not affect the timing system. Yes, VCT uses pressure, to operate, but the only problem that has arisen so far is when pressure drops from lack of oil.
The boss engine literally runs slightly higher pressure than the GT's because the Boss lacks the piston cooling oil squirters. Less holes to squirt out of = less pressure loss.
The boss engine literally runs slightly higher pressure than the GT's because the Boss lacks the piston cooling oil squirters. Less holes to squirt out of = less pressure loss.
06-21-2011, 08:55 PM
#29
True. But that is what the filter is for; to strain out the dirt that might get in and tiny metal shards that might break off from the moving internals of normal engine operation. A good filter will help keep the oil clean and so long as the oil is not breaking down, it can literally be used indefinitely if kept clean.
06-22-2011, 10:42 AM
#30
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960
Interesting. When I was at SEMA and talked too the engineers that designed the Boss engine they said they personally run 5w30 in everything. The only reason you would need 5w50 would be if you are racing the car and the internals are getting the oil hot enough to thin it to much.
I thought it was odd myself. And to be honest, I have never seen a 5W50 oil...anywhere.
5W40, yes. But no 5W50. I'm sure 5W30 would work just fine in the Boss engine.