MAXIMUS-GT

So what's the difference between this and getting a fully forged engine from Roush?

Diabolical!

$$

The Roush P-51 block is almost $1,000 more from everywhere I've seen it sold.

MustangFTW

well along with forged internals, the posted short block is designed for supercharging, so it has low compression, this means its not special unless your running boost, and being low compression means you can run alot of it. for NA it wont be any good, since your 4.6 compression ratio is in the 10:1 range (?) while that short block is 8.7:1, basically more compression=better NA power and low boost if S/C low compression means low NA power but able to run lots of boost.

the name.

Simon1

From what I have seen, the extra 40 ci gives about 40 rwtq and equal horsepower. It's really one of the two things I wish I had done differently when I had my motor built. The other thing I would have done is gotten an aluminum block instead of an iron block.

MAXIMUS-GT

This is very good to know... I had no idea you could get a forged engine just as good as Roush for less, one of those things I'm glad I asked about. With a 'fully' forged engine, do I use any of the parts that came on my stock GT, or is it an entirely new engine top to bottom? Also, would it be a good idea someday (literally a decade from now at least I'd say) to go the 'crate engine' route, and get an absolute MONSTER from Roush, fully assembled and ready to go with 700 horsepower RAW without the supercharger?

Got it! Thanks FTW

*I have a story to share about today, meeting with the bodyshop hack (also read: owner) today, and the amount of stress and turmoil I am going through right now. I am not exaggerating when I say I am losing some sleep over this ordeal. What a shame. I will be back later to post the details and fill everyone in on something that happened I consider theft basically... have a great night everyone!!!

MustangFTW

well, starting from a shortblock that has the internals will be cheaper but if you have money to throw later on theres this:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-raci.../p/M6007A54SC/

though I would rather do this:


550-575HP 460ci

Intake System:

950cfm Holley DP Carb professionally calibrated
Weiand Stealth Standard Port Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

TFS street heads with mild clean-up and chambers polished
Roller rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam 34-652-5 solid flat tappet cam or equivalent
(Specs:294/304 adv., 256/266@.050, .589/.615, 108 LSA)
Compression around 10.5:1
Stock crank
Scat H-beam rods
Block oiling mods
High volume oil pump
Deepened oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1 7/8" headers to dual 3" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 3" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 7000 rpm.

550 hp all motor, build same engine with low comp and boost that bitch for much HP, and compared to any crate engine the 460 is cheap as hell, you can find them in alot of 70's ford trucks.

ExpatMedic

I think the Brenspeed 302 is 9.8:1? I believe the FRPP short block is 8.7:1 Now with that said, if you were going to choose a compression ratio for a 302 build, what would be the leading factors to help guide your decision?

Simon1

Type of power adder and budget. If I were putting a blower on a car I would want somewhere around 8.7-9.1 compressions ratio. If I were doing an NA build I would get the highest CR I could and be streetable.

Diabolical!

It's just the block and internals. All of your accessories and pullies are transferred over along with new gaskets and seals.

Not if you're planning on keeping the supercharger. Engines built for naturally aspirated power are completely different than engines built for forced induction. Also, don't get hung up on brand names, you'd be surprised how much quality you can get for less $$. Instead of brand names, research customer experience.

MAXIMUS-GT

MEETING WITH THE PAINT SHOP OWNER YESTERDAY

Well, I can't keep everyone in suspense on what transpired during my meeting with the paint shop owner (I can't refer to him as a body shop owner, he only does paint... ONLY, he made that very clear. In fact, he made among other excuses yesterday and during the past month, another excuse for tearing and warping the vinyl super snake racing matte stripe as "I'm a painter, I paint, I don't do vinyl!" Wow, really!? Also, he refused to install the Raxiom headlights purchased from American Muscle's website, because "Everytime I try to do something electrical something gets messed up." Yeah, this entire thing has been a punch in the face and gut).

Short Version: "Wahhhh, you pointed out all my flaws caused by lazy and careless work, I don't wanna fix it but I will I guess because I know you'll never shut up about it."

Long Version: He mulled and mulled over every item I listed... clear coat build up and actual DRIPS, orange peel throughout the ENTIRE side skirt panels, torn and wrinkled vinyl pieces across the entire car (at which point he made the above mentioned excuse about being a 'painter' and not a vinyl install man - so, why did you have me buy a $225 piece of vinyl and attempt to install it on a $30,000 car!?)

To top it all off... he REFUSED to fix my hood pins, and move them to the CORRECT position. Who on earth has e-v-e-r heard of putting Shelby hood pins on a Shelby Super Snake hood, ON THE INSIDE of the ram-air slots!? He had paperwork supporting his retardedness like he was working on developing a new World Trade Center to refute my points, when all it came down to was this: He is a moron, knows nothing about cars, and if he was unsure he should have CALLED me taking 10 seconds to get it right in stead of guess (or, do a 4 second Google search of every Shelby Super Snake EVER MADE). Then, he told me to fix the mistake, move the hood pins to the outside like they are supposed to be............. WOULD BE $600!!!!! Yep, to move the hood pins, fill in two tiny holes and prime and paint over them, would be well over half a thousand dollars, WHEN THE ENTIRE HOOD WAS THAT MUCH. It was obvious he was trying to get some more money out of me, because he was pouting about having to fix his negligent errors and he knew his work looked like the result of a visually impaired second grader.

Among other quotes proving he was a clueless glorified work-from-home hack-job conman, were these:
1) "Yeah, I wondered why you wanted the hood pins on the inside, struck me as odd, but I figured that's where you wanted them. I called American Muscle and spoke with someone named Kevin or something, and they told me you ordered the wrong pin kit, you wanted the ones for the TS500 Mustang in stead, so it's not my fault!"
- TS500? Reeeeeeeeeally? Wow. How about GT-500 big guy? Awe.
- So, you KNEW the placement of the hood pins was off, and STILL didn't call me? Hooray.
- I called American Muscle from his driveway, put the phone on speaker phone, and the service agent said everything in my head, and even pointed out all the CUSTOMER PHOTOS ON THE WEBSITE with the hood pins on the outside (something he said was "IMPOSSIBLE" with the Shelby pin kit I purchased because of the 'brackets it came with.' I wonder why so many people on the site and everywhere else were able to perform the miracle of mounting them on the outside!?)

2) Me: "I'm going to start the car up and let it run because the performance tuners told me to let the newly supercharged system circulate oil and get up to operating temperature before putting it in gear and driving if possible"
Him: "Oh, it's already warm don't worry about it... I had the heat on in the garage overnight, so it's all good to go."
- He was unable to distinguish between the temperature of the car's paint basically, and what I was referring to, actual operating temperature!

I could go on... and on... and on... but I am so sick of dealing with this clown and having what is my life's savings turned into a catastrophe. Once this is all over, I'm going to do a full write-up on them, on other forums, on Face Book, and tell everyone I meet and talk to around my area about them! He just bit the hand that feeds him, referrals and local customers.