Which aftermarket clutch and flywheel
10-06-2011, 09:32 PM
#11
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 6
I have a McLeod RST Im trying to get rid of. Im new to this forum, but Im on several other forums... Message me if your interested. This is the link on s197 forums http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showt...04#post1118104
Sorry for hopping in, I just have no use for it as Im joining the airforce and decided to go a different route. Its a great clutch, believe me!
Sorry for hopping in, I just have no use for it as Im joining the airforce and decided to go a different route. Its a great clutch, believe me!
10-06-2011, 09:50 PM
#12
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
I have a McLeod RST Im trying to get rid of. Im new to this forum, but Im on several other forums... Message me if your interested. This is the link on s197 forums http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showt...04#post1118104
Sorry for hopping in, I just have no use for it as Im joining the airforce and decided to go a different route. Its a great clutch, believe me!
Sorry for hopping in, I just have no use for it as Im joining the airforce and decided to go a different route. Its a great clutch, believe me!
Good luck with the sale!
10-07-2011, 02:45 AM
#13
I have a SPEC3 setup with an aluminum flywheel. Its a pain to drive in traffic. Impossible to drive lightly.
It locked up on me once trying to shift at 6400 rpms. I had to shut off the car, spool down to have it disengage.
I am sure I will wipe out this clutch within 1000 miles (600 miles on it right now) because you can't feather it. You need to just engage it and where I live you drive in bumper to bumper traffic all the time. So to go from 0 to 5mph a 100 times a day is not so good.
I have heard nothing but excellent reviews on the RST. I am just not sure if it is reccomended to use the aluminum flywheel with it.
It locked up on me once trying to shift at 6400 rpms. I had to shut off the car, spool down to have it disengage.
I am sure I will wipe out this clutch within 1000 miles (600 miles on it right now) because you can't feather it. You need to just engage it and where I live you drive in bumper to bumper traffic all the time. So to go from 0 to 5mph a 100 times a day is not so good.
I have heard nothing but excellent reviews on the RST. I am just not sure if it is reccomended to use the aluminum flywheel with it.
10-07-2011, 11:06 AM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
10-07-2011, 12:26 PM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 23
We've installed a few ACT clutches in customer's cars. They offer much better clamping force and smooth engagement, without sacrificing the stock feel. I haven't gotten anything but positive feedback on them. With clutches, you need to worry less about horsepower and more about torque. The FM2-HDSS that we sell the most of is rated to 605 ft/lb of torque, which would be fine for a boosted 4.6.
I blew the slave the 1st time I tracked the car after the clutch was in stalled so I put a .050" shim under the slave cylinder to ensure I wouldn't over extend the slave since the ACT pressure plate fingers are about that much shorter than the stock clutch,
.
10-07-2011, 09:47 PM
#16
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
Mcleod and EXEDY are the best brands for clutches I would have to say.
EXEDY is by far the best if you do not want to spend the money for the Mcleod.
Both are friggin' great clutches. The Mcleod edges out the EXEDY if you get into the clutches that need to hold a lot of torque with that twin disk but for single dish I'd have to say EXEDY is just as good.
EXEDY is by far the best if you do not want to spend the money for the Mcleod.
Both are friggin' great clutches. The Mcleod edges out the EXEDY if you get into the clutches that need to hold a lot of torque with that twin disk but for single dish I'd have to say EXEDY is just as good.
10-07-2011, 11:58 PM
#17
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 6
On topic though, I have heard from many that Exedy is the way to go also. I'm going to be installing one soon. I'm also looking for the right flywheel to pair with the Mach 500...
10-08-2011, 12:00 AM
#18
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 6
I'm using that ACT clutch with the OEM flywheel,, I'm putting 480hp/460tq through it and it's holding up after 10,000-miles, It does appear the PP over-centers when I try shifting at 6600+ rpm's.
I blew the slave the 1st time I tracked the car after the clutch was in stalled so I put a .050" shim under the slave cylinder to ensure I wouldn't over extend the slave since the ACT pressure plate fingers are about that much shorter than the stock clutch,
.
I blew the slave the 1st time I tracked the car after the clutch was in stalled so I put a .050" shim under the slave cylinder to ensure I wouldn't over extend the slave since the ACT pressure plate fingers are about that much shorter than the stock clutch,
.
Sorry for the Newbie question, this is my first clutch swap...
10-08-2011, 03:36 AM
#19
The Paranoid One
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,320
A shim is needed usually for fitting the clutch to the flywheel for proper
clutch pedal height.
Most companies do not require one and if they do they would put it in the
description when they had the item for sale somewhere.
If you buy an aftermarket clutch AND get their flywheel odds are a shim
will not be required. But that is not always true.
That's why it's a good idea to call the company you are buying from, or
call the manufacturer to get all the details about the clutch/flywheel before
you buy it. The same goes for many mods you put on
clutch pedal height.
Most companies do not require one and if they do they would put it in the
description when they had the item for sale somewhere.
If you buy an aftermarket clutch AND get their flywheel odds are a shim
will not be required. But that is not always true.
That's why it's a good idea to call the company you are buying from, or
call the manufacturer to get all the details about the clutch/flywheel before
you buy it. The same goes for many mods you put on
10-08-2011, 09:47 AM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 23
A shim is needed usually for fitting the clutch to the flywheel for proper
clutch pedal height.
Most companies do not require one and if they do they would put it in the
description when they had the item for sale somewhere.
If you buy an aftermarket clutch AND get their flywheel odds are a shim
will not be required. But that is not always true.
That's why it's a good idea to call the company you are buying from, or
call the manufacturer to get all the details about the clutch/flywheel before
you buy it. The same goes for many mods you put on
clutch pedal height.
Most companies do not require one and if they do they would put it in the
description when they had the item for sale somewhere.
If you buy an aftermarket clutch AND get their flywheel odds are a shim
will not be required. But that is not always true.
That's why it's a good idea to call the company you are buying from, or
call the manufacturer to get all the details about the clutch/flywheel before
you buy it. The same goes for many mods you put on
I agree, IF you use install the manufactures Flywheel/PP/Disc then you likely don't need to shim the slave.
If you use the sock steel FW with an aftermarket PP/Disc,, the easiest way to figure out if you need to shim (especially if you resurface your OEM FW) .. is to mount the stock PP/Disc to the FW and measure the height of the fingers before you resurface,, then mount and measure the finger height of the aftermarket clutch and you'll want to shim up any difference.
The last Gen Slowmaro's use a similar slave setup and here's a write up on whether shimming is required.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
You'd think there'd be more better info from the Ford camp on it ...
On another note,, I went down to Atlanta Dragway last night and my clutch did not over-center when I shifted at 6600 .. Which leads me to think I'm boiling the fluid in the stock slave line .. But ,, That's another problem
.