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Trunk key fob release + po345/9

Old 10-23-2011, 04:48 PM
  #1  
chwithad
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Exclamation Trunk key fob release + po345/9

For over a year now, my trunk doesn't open when i use my key fob and i haven't really felt like trying to fix it until now that i have a daughter and its a p.i.t.a. using the key while holding a car seat and trying to get the groceries haha. Every other button on my key fob (lock/unlock/alarm) works and the fuse for the trunk relay is all working fine. Does anyone know what might be the problem?

Second thing......I've had the MIL codes P0345 and P0349 thrown for over 2 years now and NOBODY (including myself) knows why. I've replaced the alternator numerous times, i've replaced BOTH cam sensors, and even replaced the ECU. I've had my car looked at from 2 Ford dealers, and several emission qualified repair facilities and they can't figure out the problem either. If someone might know what the problem is, you'd be my f*in lifesaver.......Cannot afford to spend $800 on diagnosis for nothing just to have an emissions waiver anymore.

Thanks a lot for any help!
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:13 PM
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aero86
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well, the 345 is for the crank sensor. have you replaced that? any running or starting issues? have you looked to see if there are any damaged or wires that are rubbed?

maybe its the keyfob that is messed up on that button.. do you have another you could use?i was having an issue with the unlock button on my keyfob, so i just bought another off ebay and programmed it..
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:33 AM
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chwithad
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Actually its for the cam sensor. The code reader says it as well as everywhere online. And yes, entire engine wiring harness has been examined as well as the pigtails, and everything looks absolutely fine.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:54 AM
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wayne613
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Originally Posted by chwithad
Actually its for the cam sensor. The code reader says it as well as everywhere online. And yes, entire engine wiring harness has been examined as well as the pigtails, and everything looks absolutely fine.
This is all I got..
tl;dr "Got it fixed! It was a bad cam phaser on the drivers side bank."

As to the key fob, yeah, test with secondary fob first, still FUBAR, then I'd probably suspect the receiver. To verify, testing by quickly hooking up a trunk release button just to be sure it will work if manually set off and there's not just a busted wire/contact along the line. If the receiver is the issue, you'd have to replace the SJB to get it fixed.

Last edited by wayne613; 10-26-2011 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:15 AM
  #5  
chwithad
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I pray to God you're right.....I can take a look around on here, but do you know of any "How-to" in regards to replacing the phaser? I greatly appreciate you're help!
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:20 AM
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wayne613
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Originally Posted by chwithad
I pray to God you're right.....I can take a look around on here, but do you know of any "How-to" in regards to replacing the phaser? I greatly appreciate you're help!
Second page of that thread, the guy goes into explicit detail as to how to do it and part #. He even goes into how to test assuming the parts guy will let you use a multi-meter on it before-hand.

I would not do this myself, personally. Mechanically, I'm just not comfortable with something at that level. Especially since my S197 is my only vehicle, not my weekend cruiser. If it was strictly an electronics/electrical issue I got no problems, but for that, not so much..

I'd still wait for the weekend/less-frequent regulars that have this as a day job and/or far more experience to chime in first. If it was a phaser I'd think you might notice some sluggishness or off behavior in addition to the codes.

Last edited by wayne613; 10-26-2011 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:40 AM
  #7  
157dB
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You could try reprogramming the key fobs into the SJBs brain...
Since its a rolling code protocol, it (they) could have gotten
out of sync...
Have you actually taken the fob to AutoZone and used their
fob tester thats on the counter free for use?
Tested the actual trunk release button for the proper RF output
response to the trunk release button being depressed?
Have you disassembled the fob to inspect the insides
for signs of button conductivity seperation?

OK, here is what the Ford Workshop Manual states in section
501-14-30 Handles, Locks, Latches, and Entry Systems:

Remote Programming:

How to reprogram your remote entry transmitters
You must have all remote entry transmitters (maximum of six)
available before beginning this procedure.

Note: Ensure the brake pedal is not
depressed during this sequence.

To reprogram the remote entry
transmitters:

1. Ensure the vehicle is electronically unlocked.

2. Put the key in the ignition.

3. Cycle eight times rapidly (within 10 seconds) between the 1
(OFF/LOCK) position and 3 (ON). (Full cycles, meaning go back AND
forth 8 times for a total of 16 turns of the key.)

Note: The eighth turn must end in the 3 (ON) position. The doors will
lock, then unlock, to confirm that the programming mode has been
activated.

4. Within 20 seconds press any button on the remote entry transmitter.
Note: If more than 20 seconds have passed you will need to start the
procedure over again. The doors will lock, then unlock, to confirm that
this remote entry transmitter has been programmed.

5. Repeat Step 4 to program each additional remote entry transmitter.

6. Turn the ignition to the 1 (OFF/LOCK) position after you have
finished programming all of the remote entry transmitters. Note: After
20 seconds, you will automatically exit the programming mode. The
doors will lock, then unlock, to confirm that the programming mode has
been exited.
Attached Thumbnails Trunk key fob release + po345/9-remote.jpg  

Last edited by 157dB; 10-29-2011 at 09:45 AM.
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