My GT is an unpleasent driving experience
12-03-2011, 10:26 AM
#11
Race tune defo does not equal DD friendly.
As for the clutch catching too quickly, all I can suggest is ride it and let it slip. Maybe a dual disc clutch? But even then, you will have to ride it to prevent the sudden jerk, especially with a race tune in DD conditions.
The 4.10:1 rear gear does not help either. The TR3650 has a very deep first gear to begin with so slapping on 4.10:1 rear gears turns your 2nd gear into 1st gear for DD and your 1st gear should only be used for racing and strip. TR3650 + 4.10:1 rear gear yields redline at a very slow speed in 1st gear.
If you think about it, older trannys with maybe a 2.75:1 1st gear used 4.10:1 rear gears to get the same total gear ratio (which is 11.27:1 at the wheels) that the stock TR3650 + 3.31:1 rear gear gets (which is very similar, 11.18:1 at the wheels).
So, from a dead stop, to get a more decent total gear ratio DD driving with 4.10:1 rear gears, it only makes sense to start of at 2nd in DD, that gear ratio is: 2:1 (2nd gear) * 4.10:1 = 8.20:1 ratio at the wheels. Not 100% ideal, but since 1st gear is rendered useless, starting off at 2nd is much better.
BTW, your total 1st gear ratio with 4.10:1 rear gear is 15.58:1 at the wheels. You really need sticky DRs and suspension upgrades to keep the wheels from spinning and hopping.
As for the clutch catching too quickly, all I can suggest is ride it and let it slip. Maybe a dual disc clutch? But even then, you will have to ride it to prevent the sudden jerk, especially with a race tune in DD conditions.
The 4.10:1 rear gear does not help either. The TR3650 has a very deep first gear to begin with so slapping on 4.10:1 rear gears turns your 2nd gear into 1st gear for DD and your 1st gear should only be used for racing and strip. TR3650 + 4.10:1 rear gear yields redline at a very slow speed in 1st gear.
If you think about it, older trannys with maybe a 2.75:1 1st gear used 4.10:1 rear gears to get the same total gear ratio (which is 11.27:1 at the wheels) that the stock TR3650 + 3.31:1 rear gear gets (which is very similar, 11.18:1 at the wheels).
So, from a dead stop, to get a more decent total gear ratio DD driving with 4.10:1 rear gears, it only makes sense to start of at 2nd in DD, that gear ratio is: 2:1 (2nd gear) * 4.10:1 = 8.20:1 ratio at the wheels. Not 100% ideal, but since 1st gear is rendered useless, starting off at 2nd is much better.
BTW, your total 1st gear ratio with 4.10:1 rear gear is 15.58:1 at the wheels. You really need sticky DRs and suspension upgrades to keep the wheels from spinning and hopping.
12-03-2011, 11:03 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
My car is way more modified and it doesn't bother me a bit. The most irritating thing about my car is the locker in the back. Other than the locker clanking and clunking, it drives great.
To help your ride, I can suggest a few things:
1. Get some adjustable shocks. I never thought I would be able to tell the difference between the firm and soft settings, but I can. I can make the car react however I choose and ride in a way that lets the front end float and bounce over bumps or get really firm to where I feel every little bump.
2. Have brenspeed adjust the throttle response.
3. Get some BMR or CHE anti-squat brackets. I would do this last, or first for the wheel hop issue. You may not need it or getting the brackets may cure it, saving the purchase of shocks/struts. I do not get wheel hop anymore because I have my suspension adjusted to let the car squat properly and because I have the suspension done with all stronger pieces and huge sticky tires. On warm days I can go WOT with 540 rwhp in 1st gear and plant all the power to the ground with little to no wheel spin. I also tune the wheel hop out with shock and air pressure adjustment.
4. As far as the clutch. There should be a sticky on this website explaining how good the Mcleod RST/RXT clutch is. I don't think there is another clutch that even comes close to competing with the RST in terms of performance, lack of maintance, overall cost, customer satisfaction, easy of use.
To help your ride, I can suggest a few things:
1. Get some adjustable shocks. I never thought I would be able to tell the difference between the firm and soft settings, but I can. I can make the car react however I choose and ride in a way that lets the front end float and bounce over bumps or get really firm to where I feel every little bump.
2. Have brenspeed adjust the throttle response.
3. Get some BMR or CHE anti-squat brackets. I would do this last, or first for the wheel hop issue. You may not need it or getting the brackets may cure it, saving the purchase of shocks/struts. I do not get wheel hop anymore because I have my suspension adjusted to let the car squat properly and because I have the suspension done with all stronger pieces and huge sticky tires. On warm days I can go WOT with 540 rwhp in 1st gear and plant all the power to the ground with little to no wheel spin. I also tune the wheel hop out with shock and air pressure adjustment.
4. As far as the clutch. There should be a sticky on this website explaining how good the Mcleod RST/RXT clutch is. I don't think there is another clutch that even comes close to competing with the RST in terms of performance, lack of maintance, overall cost, customer satisfaction, easy of use.
12-03-2011, 01:51 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 6,130
i thnk you run the street tune or performance tune and not the race tune, problem solved.
i have the Ram HDX clutch in my 2000 GT and its a cable clutch, stiffer than a hydrolic one, and i DD the 2000.
i came from a Spec stage 2,and the Ram is much kinder on the street.
i have a CF DF clutch in my 2007, if you are not going FI the CF DF is like buttah!
that clutch may be smoother than stock.
but run the street or performance tune, problem solved.
i have the Ram HDX clutch in my 2000 GT and its a cable clutch, stiffer than a hydrolic one, and i DD the 2000.
i came from a Spec stage 2,and the Ram is much kinder on the street.
i have a CF DF clutch in my 2007, if you are not going FI the CF DF is like buttah!
that clutch may be smoother than stock.
but run the street or performance tune, problem solved.
12-03-2011, 06:49 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 790
Thanks for the ideas! Its not a daily driver because i have other cars to drive, but i would drive it more often if i figure this out. Mabey ill just have to live with 2nd gear starts and skipshifting for crusing. Thats the reason ive tried different clutches etc. The ram hdx was reccomended by a few and said it was close to stock. I think i just get used to driving a mushy 5 speed 4 cyl car that takes 50% throttle to buzz around in and when i get in the stang its a night and day difference, more power = more work and more self control. At the strip with stickies traction is not a problem, i was doing 5k dumps with minimal wheel spin and thats how i got the best 60's. Its just street driving drives me nuts. This clutch only has 1500 miles on it, so im hoping it will soften up as it breaks in. -Jon
Last edited by Yonco; 12-03-2011 at 07:07 PM.
12-03-2011, 07:49 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maui
Posts: 4,752
I'm seriously waiting for the punchline here. Your getting 1.65 60 foots and running in the 12s with basic bolt ons.
Come on Man! People dream to have it that bad. Just slip the clutch. Nothing is wrong with your car.
Come on Man! People dream to have it that bad. Just slip the clutch. Nothing is wrong with your car.
