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is putting a 650 rwhp engine in a 2006 GT just pointless?

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Old 03-29-2012, 12:21 AM   #1
hollywub
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Hi All,

I am considering building a new 4.6 stroked to 5.0 long block this year. My plan is to run 8.7:1 compression, 15 psi, comp cams, mild head work... I understand 625 to 650 rwhp is easily attained with this setup.

This car has a stock 5sp and stock rear.

I am thinking that after building an engine, upgraded tranny, fuel system, pulleys, etc, it may be worth just leaving the car the way it is and putting this money away for a 2013 Shelby.

I have a ton of money into this car. But another 10k is a hard sell to myself.

Will the stock tranny and rear hold up?

Will this thing be driveable at 15psi?

Curious to see what everyone thinks.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:32 AM   #2
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the stock suspension has trouble holding 300hp let alone 650, would really need to upgrade the arms and panhard etc etc.
the axle itself would be fine.
clutch would most likely commit suicide <if stock>, tranny probably would go soon after a new clutch.
dont know about drivability, Im still N/A and probably will stay like that for a while.

also "is putting a 650 rwhp engine in a 2006 GT just pointless?"
Putting 650 hp in a mustang is never pointless
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:15 AM   #3
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Get a shelby
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #4
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I'm thinking of doing the exact same. Sure you could buy a Shelby...but I want to build it myself, make it my own. You know?

My thoughts as of now:

B302, whipple pushing about 16 psi or so with a steeda dedicated drive belt, cams, and minor headwork down the road. Also a Ram Dual Disc clutch, driveshaft, and hopefully a T56 Magnum XL swap...but that's even more money. I'm looking at $15k EASILY when all is said and done. But this will be long after the car is paid off, and that ALMOST makes it all worth it. Better than going out and buying a new $50k car right? And then it's your own? Sure it's a better starting platform but yeah. That's my thinking. And of course it will all be done in steps.

And that doesn't even include suspension really, but I have a general idea of the direction I want to go.


Good idea of my personal goal:

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Old 03-29-2012, 11:46 AM   #5
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My suspension, brakes, driveshaft, k-member, body, interior, heat exchanger/fans, rims are all done... I own my own software.

I will need a McLeod RST clutch, better radiator, injectors, fuel pumps, 8-rib pulleys, electric water pump, upgraded tranny or splines and the long block. So that is about $12k.

If I buy a Shelby conv, I need about 12k for the difference of my car and then I don't have the suspension and rims at the least...
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:38 PM   #6
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have people gotten 650whp with the blower you have? I think my friend had trouble making it past 550whp with a saleen, he ended up buying a turbo to hit 650whp.

You can probably run for a bit with your spec 3 and stock transmission. Depending on your goals you might want to swap in an auto if you are doing a new transmission, that's what my friend did to get better ETs.

it might be easier to get a 2013 shelby and doing a pulley/tune to hit 650whp, but you'll have to find a dealership willing to sell it at MSRP, which is 55k for a base, 62k loaded. I haven't found a dealership willing to sell a new shelby without a big mark up, and this one should command some higher demand with the new engine and hp. plus the 2013 mustangs have a much better interior.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:30 PM   #7
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I have not personally seen a 2.6lc running more than 12lbs of boost at 540 rwhp. Kenne bell will tell you 700 is easy. I am really not sure if it it attainable with the KB 2.6lc at 15psi with cams and head work to be honest.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:46 PM   #8
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I know it's fun to build cars but unless you have ALOT of money to build and maintain it, I would get the Shelby. I would never invest that kind of money into an 06 GT. I mean would you rather have a 7 year old car or a brand new Shelby with the most powerful production V8 in the world?
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:20 PM   #9
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A new shelby is going to cost a lot more in the long run. Not sure where you are getting the $12,000 difference between your car and a 2013 shelby, it's more like $40k difference. Add to that the depreciation on the shelby and it's a huge waste of money.

You spread that waste of money out over a 6 year loan and it doesn't seem so bad.
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
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A new shelby is going to cost a lot more in the long run. Not sure where you are getting the $12,000 difference between your car and a 2013 shelby, it's more like $40k difference. Add to that the depreciation on the shelby and it's a huge waste of money.

You spread that waste of money out over a 6 year loan and it doesn't seem so bad.
My bad. I meant on a 2007 stock GT500 conv.... HUGE DIFFERENCE on a 2013 Conv...
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:27 PM   #11
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Yes, 650 whp is pointless on a street car, unless it will be spending a LOT of time on the drag strip.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:30 PM   #12
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UPR's 2010GT has a 5.0L JDM longblock with a Roush 2.3L and it makes 701rwhp. It is probably the most fun car I've ever driven!!

You would definitely want to perform trans & rear end upgrades with that kinda power though.

On the bright side, our car drives perfectly on the street, but runs 9.90 @ 133 on drag radials. GT500s don't do that stock.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
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UPR's 2010GT has a 5.0L JDM longblock with a Roush 2.3L and it makes 701rwhp. It is probably the most fun car I've ever driven!!

You would definitely want to perform trans & rear end upgrades with that kinda power though.

On the bright side, our car drives perfectly on the street, but runs 9.90 @ 133 on drag radials. GT500s don't do that stock.
I was talking to Junior about his stroked 5.0...

What do you do to the T3650? Just more splines?

Does the rear just need axle tube strenghting?
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:17 PM   #14
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Actually hollywub, I was just thinking, the reason I sold my 2007 GT was because to reach my power goals I'd new a new engine and transmission, but the 2011+ GTs can hold enough power to satisfy me stock. So your cheapest bet might be to get a 2011 GT

and really, for 650whp you could get a terminator or a used '07 shelby, i've seen '07 shelbys for 30-35k... about as much as a new GT costs, both can hold a lot of power, but if you want a manual the tranny in the 11+ isn't good, the automatics are amazing, but the manuals are only rated for stock power levels, a lot of people have problems with them.

supercharger + 2011 GT and a few extras would be about 40k - depending on options and extras up to 50k. and get you to 650whp.

it would still be cheaper to mod your existing car though. 12-15k to get your car to 650whp? and if you sold your car for 25k (which would be extremely generous, i wouldnt expect you to get more than 18 or 19k even with the supercharger and mods, 06's sell all the time for under 11-15k now) you would be in the hole 25-30k if you bought a new car. An '07 Shelby might be the 2nd cheapest option after keeping your car.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I know it's fun to build cars but unless you have ALOT of money to build and maintain it, I would get the Shelby. I would never invest that kind of money into an 06 GT. I mean would you rather have a 7 year old car or a brand new Shelby with the most powerful production V8 in the world?
This ^^
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:24 PM   #16
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I def do not put money into a car in hopes of selling it for more... I could actually swap the entire suspension from my car to a shelby with the new 14" rotors and new rims. Convertibles go for more than 15k supercharged with tons of work in it though. But you get .20 on the dollar at best if you add up the mods... Tough choice... Its all monopoly money once you start with the mods...
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:46 PM   #17
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650rwhp in a car with a racing clutch is not a lot of fun on the street for daily driving. But with a turbo system you can just turn the boost down
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:30 PM   #18
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The stock 3650 might hold for a while if you treat it nice. Meaning no power shifting and no 6000rpm dumps at the line.

I know someone who ran a stock 3650 for a while with 600+ @ the tire. He put a built automatic in before it came apart on him but he had it out to the drag strip at least once I know of and made some passes. It lived. And he wasn't gentle with it.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:37 PM   #19
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The stock 3650 might hold for a while if you treat it nice. Meaning no power shifting and no 6000rpm dumps at the line.

I know someone who ran a stock 3650 for a while with 600+ @ the tire. He put a built automatic in before it came apart on him but he had it out to the drag strip at least once I know of and made some passes. It lived. And he wasn't gentle with it.
I haven't "power shifted" a car in 20 years. I have mostly built Porsche and AMG's the last 15 years for 15mph to 120mph speed. I can care less about 1/4 mile times on the street cause I do not run slicks on the car.

The car with 495 rwhp is already ridiculous from 1 to 2nd gear...

I figured if I was building a new short block, why not push the HP up...
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:54 PM   #20
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friend of mine has about 640 rwhp, drives good on the street.
but i dont believe the 640 rwhp gets used totally on the street.
IMO, 400-500 rwhp is more than enough on the street, and more than enough to get you in trouble.
especially with a TS blower, the instant torque on the street can get dangerous if you are careless.
you could always do the engine build, and start the boost lower and see how you like it.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:54 PM
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