deltafool117

So I'm no stranger to mustang performance but I haven't dipped my toe in too far towards the horsepower side of things, I've focused mostly on suspension mods but I have finished those up and am ready to concentrate on horsepower.

Here is the deal though, I plan on keeping my mustang for a long time (hopefully 20+ years) and everywhere I have read says that if you go over 450 HP, your mustang is on borrowed time (something about the connecting rods being the weak point?). So basically, I don't want forced induction...there is one forced induction kit (Roush M-90) I believe that puts the mustang at 435 HP...but that's at the wheel, at the crank it is probably over that 450 i mentioned.

It's a highway cruising/roadtrip car as well, so that eliminates gears. Since mines an 06, it came with the 3.55s and I'm pretty happy with those. Unless someone convinces me that the 3.77's aren't too bad on the mpgs?

Also I don't want an x pipe, I'm more into the throaty, muscle car noise then the racer noise. I like my H-pipe!

What is done:
Underdrive Pulley
JLT CAI (the older one, not the new series 3)
Bassani cat-back exhaust (cylinder muffler, not the box)

SCT X3 Tuner (NOTE: I bought used, so I do not have BAMA custom tunes for life, I am still only manually tuning via the strategy tune menu)

I also found a set of used JBA shorties for a really good price, just had to buy new gaskets. I have not installed yet...


ANYWAY. I want OPINIONS.

I know about most of the bolt ons and semi bolt ons (cams) but...

What order should I buy and install the parts (over time, I have to save up for each part...)??
How much power can I expect to get minus nitrous and FI??
Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams vs Comp Cams??
Heads?? ( I know next to nothing on this topic)
Any other bits and pieces you can think of ???

Thanks! I feel bad starting a new thread on this but it's hard to find stuff on maxing out non forced induction wise. If you even use the word supercharger or Forced induction, searches give you all that junk as well...

Ricardo

4.10s, LONGTUBES (don't waste a dime on those shorties), cams, heads. That should be about all really unless you throw on some nitrous. Everyone says don't think about throttle body until you're F/I. By then you'd have spent enough to get a Vortech kit from Brenspeed or AM for $3999.00 and call it a day.

I basically have the same mods you have minus the UDP's and put down 275HP/293TQ to the wheels if that gives you an idea of how much you really have to put into the car to make HP without F/I.

deltafool117

Yeah I realize without FI it's a steep hill to climb. But the goal is more power, not major power.

If I can end up with with 350+ at the wheel (about 80 over stock?) I would be pretty happy.

VistaBlueFrank68

Search your car for junk you don't need, lose 50 lbs. and you'll go faster. It's a 3.73 to 1 unless you're in Ukraine with a 3.77 to 1. I put a 4.10 in a V6 4.0 because i'm insane but the sane part of me could see the fuel gage move. 3.73 are at the fun point because it's harder to see the needle move. It's better to go lower if you got the torque to overcome the start-up. I believe CJ's have low 3-.08/.15/.31? That's how they get to 200+. Imagine a KR-500 with a 4.10 doing 200+ at 10,000 RPM. It's highway cruise speed - my 5.0 with 6 sp and 3.73 is 2000 for 60 or higher rpm with a 4.10 and lower milage per gallon.

deltafool117

But my shaker subsssszzz

AJ06GT

So do you want 350+ RWHP, or do you want good gas mileage for your road trip car. You're not getting both! I think you'd be perfectly fine with 3.73 gears. I have the 3.55s as well and even at highway speed my RPMs are fairly low.

But you can get to around 350 with cams, intake, and LTs. Heads are the next step but they're gonna cost you.

VistaBlueFrank68

Like $3K or more to PnC the heads, mill .30 and new head bolts $300. I don't think it's good to reuse old head bolts? F/I if your going to junk it later or you don't need it to be dependable. 4.6 motors have an available Ford Racing intake (similar to the Boss) that might be a bridge to more hp without F/I but if the runners are short might raise RPM to dangerous levels. I also find the CAI used on the bullet model was best and had a sealed tub that kept hot engine air out and brought cool grill air in. Those four cam 5.0's have just eclipsed everything a 4.6 could be without forged internals and F/I with exotic pulleys.

drewsky

Don't fear the gear! I was happy for 3 years with my 3.55's saying I like the way they feel. Until I drive a 4.10 gt! Have taken it on many road trips 150 miles plus and get about 1-2 mpg less. The low end is sooo worth it not only improving mpg in the city slightly. Cams, long tubes, Cai tune, gears, under drive pulleys, delete plates OR a frpp intake manifold. Aluminum driveshaft.. Should hit close to 80 over stock. Or at least make it fast enough to hold you over for a while without FI. Also you NEED a Brenspeed or bama tune not one you wrote manually yourself. It will make a big difference no doubt as well as being safer. Note that shorty headers will not really do anything for hp

hootie_john

FWIW, the 450 figure is at the wheels. You'll not get anywhere close to that with bolt ons. In all honesty, the "safety" is in tune. You can grenade a motor with a poorly written tune without ever turning a wrench.

If you are deadset against FI - tune, CAI, gears, cams, LTs, UDP, delete plates, ditch the cats. That should get you to 315-325 at the wheels. There's not much more to be had with bolt ons after those mods....forget TB and heads unless you're going big FI.

EDIT - by the time you buy all that, you're close to the cost of FI, with more power and stock reliability (assuming a good tune).

jz

Like other's have said, go with the 4.10's. You'll be very happy you did. I have driven mine on the freeway plenty of times, and have never felt I made a mistake with 4.10's. It's not the old days where people only had 4 speeds, and 4.10's screamed on the freeway. The car pulls so much better once you change the gear ratio.