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GT S197 General Discussion This section is for technical discussions pertaining specifically to the V8 variation of the 2005 and newer Ford Mustang.

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Old 06-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #1
JonnyW
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Default Buying my 2013 GT mods

Well guys, I know I recently made a thread not too long ago about mods, but I'm going to be purchasing a bunch over the course of the year.
Now, I need your help on the order in which I purchase and install! List the orders for me I'll be putting lots of pictures on, before and after, because I'm upgrading the appearance too. We're talking $20,000+ into this car over 8 months worth in time.

MGW Short Shifter
Airaid Race Intake
Bama Tune
Borla S Type Catback
Borla XR1 Headers
Boss 302 Intake Manifold
Boss 302 Tower Strut Bar
Ford Racing EV6 High Flow Injectora
Ford Racing Throttle Body (what millimeter?)
Eibach Pro System Plus
Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch
Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel
Aluminum Driveshaft
Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI NSR Camshafts
Rear Brembo Package
Powerslotted Rotors
American Racing Nova Wheels 20" Staggard
Front Nitto NT555 275/35
Rear Nitto NT555R 305/35
OR Goodyear Eagle F1, opinions?

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:51 PM   #2
Andy13186
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wheres the supercharger?
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #3
VistaBlueFrank68
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MGW Short Shifter (with bottom bracket or you're 1/2 stepping)
Airaid Race Intake (Stock CAI is fine with a K&N filter)
Bama Tune(SCT my fav, what ever stay away smart phone type, flakey)
Borla S Type Cat-back(Stock exh good unless LT then do clutch first)
Borla XR1 Headers (know the pipe diameter or end up with Frankenstein exhaust)
Boss 302 Intake Manifold (Yeah baby! adapter kit $109?)
Boss 302 Tower Strut Bar (gotta sell the GT)
Ford Racing EV6 High Flow Injectors (doing PnC on heads? talk to mech's, don't need)
Ford Racing Throttle Body (what millimeter?) (84.5mm, again talk to Mech's PnC)
Eibach Pro System Plus (Good all match better coordination with parts)
Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch (D/D?, going to need to parallel park)
Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel (Might as well got the trans off anyway)
Aluminum Driveshaft (BMR safety loops also stiff frame, Steel clutch line plastic is weak)
Comp Cams Stage 3 XFI NSR Camshafts (Crack the heads PnC, might not need)
Rear Brembo Package (Boss Low Expansion lines all four $90 or steel $2-300)
Powerslotted Rotors
American Racing Nova Wheels 20" Staggard
Front Nitto NT555 275/35 (Ask a shop first not sure might rub on a bounce and turn)
Rear Nitto NT555R 305/35 (Adjustable PanHard for sure)
OR Goodyear Eagle F1, opinions? (Winter driving? rain - hydroplane - u tube you

Other options Suspension nice to keep all alike better computability with function.
Ex: All Eirbach shocks, struts, springs, sway.
BMR LCA, UCA, Lower Control Bracket (LCB)anti wheel hop.
Bump Steer and Cam-Bolts maybe Steada X-11 bigger ball joints.

Fixing a disaster is more expensive then pre-bomb proofing, my 2013 GT/CS has FR 3.73, FR rear diff plate, Shaftmaster 4" alum one piece driveshaft with steel braided hydraulic clutch lines, BMR safety loops which stiffen that huge trench the shaft sits in. Next Alloy diff shafts
maybe ARP hub bolts? Not sure if I'll need, Spec clutch and fly (Stage 1) gets me around 600 ft lbs. And the Traction Loc Posi is out of here, Maybe a Yukon/Detroit. Posi-traction units all have different strengths and weaknesses.

Lots of power you have no control of is dangerous. And breakdowns cost more then beef-ups.
And some of the big engine mods you might not need, go with a Super Charger and much of it goes in the dumper behind the speed shop.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
outceltj
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yeup supercharge it
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11.216 at 123.42MPH
60ft-1.558
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:02 PM   #5
JonnyW
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VistaBlueFrank, thank you for all of the feedback. I'll check into the information on what you've posted. In the future I probably will throw a blower on but I want all of my other engine modifications finished first.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:36 AM   #6
VistaBlueFrank68
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Cool beans JonnyW enjoy that Boss intake 60-100 scary fast, and you should be able to sell it once you go F/I, you will need an adapter kit for the intake. All of the GT piping doesn't work on a Boss $120 maybe. I've been warned also to do LT headers after Clutch
work because of accessibility issue or why not together? Others have said they had to move the engine for LT. I'm apprehensive about that, these are complex system, high tolerance machines not like cars but more like airplanes. When I'm about finished with mine I'll have about 20K over cost invested.

Your crazy! You could have gotten a Boss. Yeah but then I wouldn't have heated seats.
Later
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:41 AM   #7
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I didn't see much for suspension. No good having all that power if the suspension can't handle it.

Supercharge it.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #8
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Wow an extra $20 K spend. I think I would have started with a Boss right off the hop. But that's me; I like the idea of engineered factory install; unless you have a shop and skilled techs you can rely on.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:02 PM   #9
JonnyW
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I didn't want the boss because I would have never wanted to touch it lol even if I wanted to replace the door pins, I would have felt guilty. The GT for me is much more practical because I figured I save money after the purchase for mods I can do myself I'll be looking more into suspension as I upgrade the car but for now we'll play it by ear. Dont forget to respond to my most recent thread on shift **** measurements. That would be a huge help to me.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s1...surements.html.
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMcNam View Post
I didn't see much for suspension. No good having all that power if the suspension can't handle it.

Supercharge it.
This. Suspension & tires are the foundation. IMO, they should be done first.
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:09 PM
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