DCzapla

Saw these heads for less than 1000.00 a piece. So i cant wait to get a set . Anyone who is serious about making some power how can you not want these heads.

breathegood

Unless you are building a top end, N/A monster or already running F/I, you may not be thrilled with the performance gains of p&p'd heads given the cost and labor involved. If you do it right and combine them with O/R headers and a good cam, you may open up the top end quite a bit for the track, but he bottom end will suffer some torque loss and you may not be happy with the way it performs as a daily driver. I've said it many times, save the heads for when you get serious about building the motor.

FWIW, I had mine p&p'd for $1800 for the set, so $1000/side seems a little steep to me. Just sayin....

While I'm not using the FRPP heads, I do have some experience with p&p'd heads to back my opinion. With a 3.55 rear, 5th gear is virtually useless in my car and you have to get it wound pretty good to get it rolling from a dead stop for not-so-aggressive around town types of driving. Granted, I live at 6200' and don't have the ambient air pressure to really get a lot of air moving through the engine, but the principle applies at seal level too.

draxxus131

I honestly would tell you to go for it despite what people may claim about those heads. I personally helped with a mild build which included these heads. By only utilizing bolt-on and (MILD)camshaft upgrades, my friend netted 365 to the rear wheels at 6,950 RPM. I was impressed to put it lightly, but more will be had from his build.

I'm pretty certain that he added a few more things to it since the dyno run, including the FRPP intake manifold, 1 pc. DS, etc.. He may even be in the ballpark range of 390-400 by now for all I know.

Those heads love the flow at higher RPM's so a build for 7200-7500 RPM might be a practical idea.

jpplaw

FRPP stage 1's will not hurt your performance very much down low but it will affect it. They really open up the powerband above 2000-2500 rpm. A steeper rear gear (3.73-4.10) on an N/A car would work great with these. I run these but I do have a blower.
(Note: There is no such thing as FRPP stage 2's)
Stage 3's would be overkill and would hurt unless you run a blower with a lot of boost and huge cams.

Scott2

I used FRPP High Flow CNC Ported Cylinder Heads in my forged build, part number M-6049-463VP3 and M6050-463VP3. They are nice heads:

retfr8flyr

They are made for FRPP by Livernois. Just get the Lovernois heads and save some money.

DCzapla

Other than a CAI and tune thats currently on the car Im going to do heads with a mild cam. And steeda delete plates. Does Livernois do installation as well.

07 GT E UPP

Have these Stage 1 FRPP CNC Ported Heads on my B326 Built Stroker with HotRod cams and I'm happy so far with this set-up..

DCzapla

Would you recommend these heads for a N/A build thats not as aggressive as your set up?

breathegood

Long tube headers and a mild cam will get you more HP for your $ than the heads with a mild cam and factory exhaust manifolds. By the time you pay for the parts and installation, you are going to be dissappointed that you aren't making anywhere near F/I power at the same cost. The 3 valve heads flow just fine from the factory for any amount of power you are willing to throw at the stock bottom end, but if you are dead set on swapping the heads, skip the delete plates and go straight to the FRPP intake manifold and throttle body.