Should I buy this supercharged 2005?
05-04-2014, 04:40 PM
#21
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
So you run a higher risk with a SC'd car than you do with NA...big deal. If it's done right and the car was treated well then there's a higher risk for sure but it's somewhat marginal. It's pretty hypocritical of us to get on here and start telling this new guy "I wouldn't do it because..." then turn around and in other threads start saying "totally boost that, you'll never regret it!". It's not like any of us built these superchargers by hand and signed off on them personally. Best case, 95% took it to a mechanic who followed instructions from the vendor, then 5-6000 later we're done and happy, then 4% braved following instructions and over a weekend with a friend or 2 installed it, then 1% actually put forged components in and installed the SC. We all know most of the mistakes that have been made have been either poor maintenance, bad install, or abuse. Very few have probably had mechanical failures because going over 400hp at the crank. Face it, you very likely didnt build nor install your supercharger, so why do you write off every other guy's car who did as being inadequate because they put it on autotrader or CL? My rule of thumb would be get the kbb on the car, add maybe 4-5k depending on the mods, then lowball the heck out of the seller hoping they cave, but be ready to pay that amount because that's fair.
Last edited by moosestang; 05-04-2014 at 04:44 PM.
05-04-2014, 08:05 PM
#22
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 2,248
Hmm... Now I'm thinking about forking out some extra cash and buying a newer 5.0..
I'm really looking for acceleration, how would you guys say they compare?
It seems that all the Mustangs that i've seen are built to the blowing point with no forged internals, so lets use that as a benchmark.
Blowing point 4.6 vs stock 5.0.
Opinions?
I'm really looking for acceleration, how would you guys say they compare?
It seems that all the Mustangs that i've seen are built to the blowing point with no forged internals, so lets use that as a benchmark.
Blowing point 4.6 vs stock 5.0.
Opinions?
05-04-2014, 08:09 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 2,248
So you run a higher risk with a SC'd car than you do with NA...big deal. If it's done right and the car was treated well then there's a higher risk for sure but it's somewhat marginal. It's pretty hypocritical of us to get on here and start telling this new guy "I wouldn't do it because..." then turn around and in other threads start saying "totally boost that, you'll never regret it!". It's not like any of us built these superchargers by hand and signed off on them personally. Best case, 95% took it to a mechanic who followed instructions from the vendor, then 5-6000 later we're done and happy, then 4% braved following instructions and over a weekend with a friend or 2 installed it, then 1% actually put forged components in and installed the SC. We all know most of the mistakes that have been made have been either poor maintenance, bad install, or abuse. Very few have probably had mechanical failures because going over 400hp at the crank. Face it, you very likely didnt build nor install your supercharger, so why do you write off every other guy's car who did as being inadequate because they put it on autotrader or CL? My rule of thumb would be get the kbb on the car, add maybe 4-5k depending on the mods, then lowball the heck out of the seller hoping they cave, but be ready to pay that amount because that's fair.
05-07-2014, 01:04 AM
#24
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Utah
Posts: 7
Here is the newest one that I like.
http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/4457401777.html
I think it's too much, and I it doesn't have much description. However, does it sound like a good car?
http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/4457401777.html
I think it's too much, and I it doesn't have much description. However, does it sound like a good car?
05-07-2014, 09:07 AM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 2,248
Here is the newest one that I like.
http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/4457401777.html
I think it's too much, and I it doesn't have much description. However, does it sound like a good car?
http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/4457401777.html
I think it's too much, and I it doesn't have much description. However, does it sound like a good car?
05-07-2014, 11:43 AM
#26
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 32
yep, I have 366hp to the wheels at 7psi and LT headers. Its an automatic so assume 17% losses and its 440hp at the crank. Dyno is conservative and tuner is one of the best for Fords in Phoenix metro.
My car has a ton more mods than that and 16k less miles, however has had the misfortunate of being in a wreck due to a hit an run drunk.
Which brings me to this, don't want to be the spoilsport here, but here has been my experiences with a modded car.
When it comes to insurance, good luck getting money out of your mods. Perhaps you can do a stated value at some places, but I am sure they will charge you plenty for it. Otherwise with Geico, if I declared my mods and paid extra, I was told covering the mods would be taken into consideration when determining whether to repair or total. However, if they total the car, they will not pay for the mods.
Also, my supercharger was installed by a prior owner by Sanderson Ford. They are supposedly a FRPP certified dealer and the best dealer in town when it comes to performance installations. Prior owner also taken the car to a performance shop for additional mods. Once I got it, the car was throwing expensive serpentine belts left and right. I was measuring miles per belt. I took it to a local shop that had some experience in performance stuff, but that wasn't their primary focus. Belt broke again and they replaced it again. After all that, the tensioner arm finally broke killing the belt again.
By then I took it to the new tuner guy I found. After something so outlandish as reading the whipple instructions, we discovered that the S/C was never properly installed with the right tensioner arm modifications nor with the later mods had the correct size idler arm pulleys been installed.
My moral of the story, finding people who know what the hell they are doing is a lot harder than it seems. Especially nowadays. So if you are not turning your own wrenches, there is something to be said about a stock car. And it sounds like you are off the beaten path. This was my experience in metro Phoenix, if you are in the sticks, good luck.
My car has a ton more mods than that and 16k less miles, however has had the misfortunate of being in a wreck due to a hit an run drunk.
Which brings me to this, don't want to be the spoilsport here, but here has been my experiences with a modded car.
When it comes to insurance, good luck getting money out of your mods. Perhaps you can do a stated value at some places, but I am sure they will charge you plenty for it. Otherwise with Geico, if I declared my mods and paid extra, I was told covering the mods would be taken into consideration when determining whether to repair or total. However, if they total the car, they will not pay for the mods.
Also, my supercharger was installed by a prior owner by Sanderson Ford. They are supposedly a FRPP certified dealer and the best dealer in town when it comes to performance installations. Prior owner also taken the car to a performance shop for additional mods. Once I got it, the car was throwing expensive serpentine belts left and right. I was measuring miles per belt. I took it to a local shop that had some experience in performance stuff, but that wasn't their primary focus. Belt broke again and they replaced it again. After all that, the tensioner arm finally broke killing the belt again.
By then I took it to the new tuner guy I found. After something so outlandish as reading the whipple instructions, we discovered that the S/C was never properly installed with the right tensioner arm modifications nor with the later mods had the correct size idler arm pulleys been installed.
My moral of the story, finding people who know what the hell they are doing is a lot harder than it seems. Especially nowadays. So if you are not turning your own wrenches, there is something to be said about a stock car. And it sounds like you are off the beaten path. This was my experience in metro Phoenix, if you are in the sticks, good luck.
Last edited by Quake Guy; 05-08-2014 at 12:26 AM.
05-07-2014, 01:14 PM
#27
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
60 months on used car is too long. Even new is pushing it. For used 36 months max. New I generally stick to 48.
05-07-2014, 09:17 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 2,248
I also asked that guy about his car on craigslist. I asked for a Dyno file and this is what he sent me
I also have a main overdrive pulley if you want it. With both of them on it blew the motor(cracked the pistons the weakness in this engine) the supercharger was originally on.
I also have a main overdrive pulley if you want it. With both of them on it blew the motor(cracked the pistons the weakness in this engine) the supercharger was originally on.
05-07-2014, 10:17 PM
#29
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: sweden
Posts: 1,128
loaning for 36 months on a new car would be my limit if i ever borrowed for a car.
i have never loaned money for a car though..
05-07-2014, 10:39 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Utah
Posts: 7
I wish I could afford a car like this in cash, but I'm only 19. Haha.
If this car is making 400< HP, that comforts me a little. I don't want anything pushing too hard.
I don't know if you are speaking ironically about the dyno files, or if a link/picture failed to post.
Out of curiosity, how much does it generally cost to upgrade the rotating assembly to be reliable with the added power of a SC?
If this car is making 400< HP, that comforts me a little. I don't want anything pushing too hard.
I don't know if you are speaking ironically about the dyno files, or if a link/picture failed to post.
Out of curiosity, how much does it generally cost to upgrade the rotating assembly to be reliable with the added power of a SC?